8n won't start...............again!

52 8N side mount distributor;
New battery, 12 volt conversion (alternator, bracket, harness and resistor), plugs, wires, cap, rotor (yes, it's on ), points and condenser. Still using 6 volt round coil and 6 volt starter. I also installed a new fuel bowl assembly, fuel line and rebuilt the carburetor.
It had been running great last few days, however I had not put it to work yet. It started without the choke almost instantly in the morning and even quicker after being warmed up. I was so proud of it I went and put on a new steering wheel and an exhaust pipe with a new clamp and hanger.
After replacing ALL the bolts and tightening up the 5' brush hog I was ready to get to work. I hooked it up and drove it about a half mile up the road and back - without the PTO hooked up. Had a little work do on the hog. The hydraulics appear to be weak and sluggish. I expect draining and replacing the hydraulic fluid is next, but that's for another day.
When I got it back to the house and fooling with the lift at a medium idle (hog still attached-not hooked to PTO), all of a sudden it started running bad. I couldn't tell if it was missing or choking or what. Pulling on the choke made no difference but opening the throttle more seemed to help. I shut it off and have not been able to start it since yesterday.
After turning over excessively with the choke pulled I can get it to fire once then the starter kicks out. Surely the hydraulics don't have anything to do with it? I took the hog off completely and rolled the N away.
Points are clean and working properly. Ignition on, points open I get 12 volts between distributor side of coil and ground.
I am thinking something has happened with the carburetor. I've noticed gas weeping around the idle mixture screw and mating screws. Not dripping, just weeping.
Could it have jumped time?
Let me know what you think. Exasperated

that was typical on the 3 I ran for the neighbor in the 1960's, whatever it is good luck

Did you in a resistor to drop the coil voltage back to 6 volt and also used the ballast resistor? If not you probably burnt the 6 volt coil .

Charles Krammin SW MI

I Like wrote:
"When I got it back to the house and fooling with the lift at a medium idle (hog still attached-not hooked to PTO), all of a sudden it started running bad. I couldn't tell if it was missing or choking or what. Pulling on the choke made no difference but opening the throttle more seemed to help. I shut it off and have not been able to start it since yesterday."

Sounds like it is flooding.
I know you rebuilt the carb but could you have a leaky float or it be sticking low in the bowl and/or the needle not seating?

First, check to make sure you have spark. Use an old plug opened up to 3/16" gap. SHould have a blue-white spark. If spark is good move to
fuel. Remove the pipe plug from the bottom of the carb. Should be able to fill a pint jar in 2-3 min. Do these test and report back.

The fact that you could not keep three N's running says more about your mechanical abilities than the nature of the tractor.

The purpose of this board is to help others get their N's running. Your consistent negative comments about N's are not helpful.

It would be nice if you would troll somewhere else.

" Could it have jumped time?'

No

" I am thinking something has happened with the carburetor."

Probably not.

" Points are clean and working properly."

You can't tell that by looking. Check the spark as Harold said. Will it jump 1/4" in open air?

" When I got it back to the house and fooling with the lift at a medium idle (hog still attached-not hooked to PTO), all of a sudden it started running bad. "

A rich mixture will foul the plugs at idle. Replace the plugs. If they're fouled it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner or brake cleaner.
75 Tips

(quoted from post at 10:00:38 05/02/15) Did you in a resistor to drop the coil voltage back to 6 volt and also used the ballast resistor? If not you probably burnt the 6 volt coil .

Charles Krammin SW MI

Click to expand...

I have 1 resistor that I know of and it came with the 12v conversion kit. I'm still getting 12v on the distributor side of the coil with ignition on and points open.

If you have a 12 volt side coil, REMOVE the resistor. You've got way too much resistance in the circuit.
75 Tips

Oooops.

I see you have a 6v coil.

It needs a resistor.

H, I pulled the #1 plug (can't find an old one) inserted to plug wire and turned over. I got a 1/4" blue white spark against the exhaust manifold.

I took the plug out of the carb with fuel cock open and it poured fast until the carb was drained then slowed to a fast trickle. Filled half a quart jar in a fat 3 minutes.

I removed the fuel line from the carb and turned the fuel cock on. Fuel line is actually 5/16" steel brake line. It came out as smooth steady stream but seemed interrupted every 3-4 seconds. The vent on the gas cap is open.

There is no crap in the bottom of the fuel bowl but looking at it from underneath there is an air bubble below the screen - with the cock open.

I am wondering; I don't know the last time the tank was full. It is about 3/4 full now. What is the possibility that while running it up the road and back it washed some crap off the sides of the tank and is restricting gas at the bowl?

When I rebuilt the carb the float appeared to be good. It was not collapsed, did not have fuel in it and floated in the gas bath I soaked the carb parts in.

BTW; Thanks for your help!

Tall, I am really hoping it's not the float or seat. It has been running and starting great, of course that doesn't necessarily mean that they couldn't have malfunctioned. I guess the only way to check it is to drop the bottom half of the carb and look?

Bruce, When I pulled the #1 plug for H's spark test it looked good, almost new and no fouling. I am assuming fouled plugs are not the problem however it has been idling alot. Should I check them all?

" Should I check them all?"

Unless the plugs are soaking wet w/ raw gas, you can not see a fouled plug. Pull all 4 & clean them as I suggested.

Pulled all four. Man, they were all visually clean; virtually no deposits at all and no smell of gas. The #2 I pulled with my fingers......
Put them all back in without cleaning, kicked the tire and sat down. Tried to start it again and after turning a bit it started! It runs smooth. Took it for a 2 mile ride, shut it off for 5 minutes and it started right up again just like it had been.

I hate flukes. I hope there isn't another lurking problem that caused it.

Thanks again for your help!

Well there's your problem! You let that gremlin that was trapped under the #4 plug get out!

Ike,

Not sure what to call you.

Any chance your choke pull rod got disconnected from the butterfly?

T

I get it, it was the tire kick

Yea, that was a feeble attempt at humor. I really didn't kick the tire.

No sir. When I rebuilt it I replaced the broken choke lever spring. When I let go of the choke it snaps back open (like it's supposed to?).

I hope that's it. Did a little hoggin' this afternoon and hopefully I ran the little bugger over.

Is the throttle rod adjustable for length at the carb? I'm pretty sure it's off. At the steering wheel it seems most of my rpms are in the top 1/4 and there's hardly any difference in the bottom 1/4.

Always somethin'

I would suggest if it happens again to pull the plug on the bottom of the carb and drain it out. Sounds like you may have gotten some water in your carb. norm

ILMT..........byte the BULLET......gitta IC-14sb from NAPA. ($18, cheap) Its designed fer 12-volts from the gitt-go and NO- friggin' resistor EVER. Sidemount points are 0.025" and same condenser are good fer 200-volts. We recommend AutoLite-437's gapped 0.025". WARNING: neiubiee tractor owners FLOOD their engines trying to start them. Remember its 2-rowwa-rowwa then a QUICK pull on the spring-loaded choke knobbie. Should start right up. BUT iff'n you FLOOD yer sparkies, you haffta change'm to NEW DRY sparkies. Don't throw yer flooded sparkies away, just klean'n'dry 'em one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a NEXT time) ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

(quoted from post at 12:25:06 05/02/15) Pulled all four. Man, they were all visually clean; virtually no deposits at all and no smell of gas. The #2 I pulled with my fingers......
Put them all back in without cleaning, kicked the tire and sat down. Tried to start it again and after turning a bit it started! It runs smooth. Took it for a 2 mile ride, shut it off for 5 minutes and it started right up again just like it had been.

I hate flukes. I hope there isn't another lurking problem that caused it.

Thanks again for your help!

Click to expand...

Sounds like your work on the fuel system could have cleared up a blockage. Something that can happen rarely is a moving obstruction in the gas tank. It wanders around and occasionally gets sucked to the gas tap. I have had good results from siphoning my tanks using a $3.99 transfer siphon from the hard ware store. The pick-up tube is stiff enough that you can steer it around a good portion of the bottom of the tank.