Almost ready to put it back together..what about the sludge?

Okay my fellow tractortiers, first let me thank you all for the tips and advice that you all have offered on my different questions for my 8n and the head gasket job. I picked up the head yesterday and the shop owner told me the problem was some wear around the number 3 cylinder, but there were no cracks or it wasn't warped. I have ordered top and bottom hoses, a thermostat, and oil filters from our host,and my step dad found a torque wrench at Sears on sale and bought it for me, and I have the gasket and I will pick up the oil and anti-freeze on the day I get to put it back together. I also filled the radiator with vinegar and let it set four days and have flushed it out, and after I put the head back on I will flush the block on the tractor. Now for the question... There was a lot of water in the oil and it has a light brown tint, is there any way to flush some of this sludge out before changing the filter and putting new oil in it, or will it be okay just to take the drain plug out and let it drip till I get ready to put the new oil in.

There are crankcase flushes on the market. I used to use an Amsoil one when I was converting a vehicle to synthetic oil. You drain off a quart or oil and add the quart of flush and let it idle for 20 min. It was some toxic stuff so I assumed it was doing a good job.

But since you are putting a nice new head back on I'd do like you said and just let it drip and check the lay of the land to make sure you get the max out. You could do new oil and later do a flush when that oil gets a little used . . . if you wanted to.

P.S.
But water won't be soluble even in a crankcase flush.
I wonder if some Methyl Hydrate in the oil would absorb the trace moisture. I've never tried that, only Methyl Hydrate in gas.

Newbie8nowner.I would pull the drain plug and drain it out and let it drip for a day,remove the filter and drain and flush the canister out with some gas.Put the oil drain plug in finger tight and pour about 2 quarts of gas into the oil fill,then pull the drain plug and drain it out.If it is really sludged up you could hook a 2 foot piece of 1/4" copper tubing to a fitting and hook it to a air hose.Put the plug in the pan then put about a gallon of gas in the oil fill,stick the copper tube down the oil fill tube hock up to the air compressor and let it boil awhile before draining it out. 1/4"tube may even go down the dipstick tube to boil in a different spot.That should clean it out good.

I get a engine every now and a gain that gets flooded with coolant in the oil... Its a bad combination. I drain as good as I can then add 1 Qt of diesel and a qt of ATF along with the proper amount of engine oil to bring it up to normal level... I run it till I get it good and hot then drain overnight and repete... I then fill with the proper engine oil and short change it after about 10 hr. of operation... I don't know that the ATF helps but the diesel DOSE...
Some say to put alcohol in the mix I think its a waist of good alcohol...

You can play with the sludge ATF are alcohol will have little effect but Diesel will... The out come is gonna be luck of the draw no matter what mix you try if its already damaged it will stay damaged...

Gas is a good cleaner but it goes KABOOM even if a trace is left in the mix... I just don't think I would go there...

Hobo,

Excellent flush game plan for Newbie 8
and the N beats.

or is that the Newbeats?
Remember them?
I Like Bread and Butter

T, IIRC that group was the "easy beats".

While the head is off, I'd fill the jackets with the vinegar and let it be soaking while the rad is soaking also, even use a suitable bottle brush to agitate the jacket walls, depending on buildup, remove block drain plug and agitate that area as much as possible.

(quoted from post at 21:47:24 04/22/15) T, IIRC that group was the "easy beats".

Click to expand...

You must be too young or too old, to remember.

Newbeats

I recently bought an 8N that turned out to have a warped head. It put a gallon of coolant in the oil pan while it sat for a week. The oil was clean when I bought it, and I hadn't run it since getting it home.

After draining the oil pan, I left the drain plug out and let it drip for a day. Then I used the following procedure to flush the oil system:

I removed the line at the oil pressure gauge and connected a pump oil can full of ATF. I removed the oil filter and the drain plug from the canister, then pumped until I got clean ATF at the filter housing. I cleaned up the bottom of the filter canister and replaced the plug.

I then removed the oil pressure relief valve from the front cover and pumped until I got a flow of clean ATF coming out there. I replaced the relief valve and pumped until I got a flow of clean ATF coming out the oil pan drain. I rotated the crankshaft a quarter turn and pumped some more. I did this through two revolutions of the crankshaft, a quarter turn at a time. I did this to try to line up the oil holes in the crankshaft and flush all the coolant that might have been left there.

I haven't started the tractor since, but I believe it has a fighting chance to survive.

dbNga

This one's in my drum workout collection of links.
Friday on my Mind
Easybeats

Alcohol is a polar solvent, water is polar, thus alcohol will dissolve water. This new water/alcohol mix is called an azeotrope.

While water and oil or fuel will only mix to the point of becoming an emulsion or a suspension, the solvated water/alcohol azeotrope will readily
mi x with Pietro solvents, and thus the water can more easilly be removed from nooks and crannies in the sump where it might otherwise be
trapped behind webbing and pool. The azeotrope will have a consistent boiling point and vapor pressure and be easier to remove and mitigate
in the sump, vs water, or even heavily emulsified products that may resist Pietro chemical solvation.

The extra detergents in the atf will help suspend for removal other debris, and even emulsified products, letting them flow out a drain, or lodge
in an oil filter.

Best to use a 90 or 100% alcohol, as using common 70% Iso is already partially saturated.

Additionally, as water and alcohol form a positive azeotrope ( vs a negative one ), the boiling point of the azeotrope is LESS than either of the 2
constituants. In other words, the alcohol/water mix will boil and vapor out easier than alcohol or water alone, thus, running the machine to
warm after the flush helps get rid of leftover water mix as it boils out even faster than normal.

T, I remembered the song but forgot the group. Thx for the memory...I was entering my prime(or so I thought) during this time frame.

Gettin' up there like me DB!
Bread and Butter . . .let's see?
I think I was about 18

Funny that just the other day I saved the YouTube link to Friday on My Mind, by the Easybeats in my current Jane Fonda workout list of songs for my 5 hand drum setup.

And what do you do for a living? Sure hope you're paid well.

is there any way to flush some of this sludge out before changing the filter and putting new oil in it, or will it be okay just to take the drain plug out and let it drip till I get ready to put the new oil in.

Click to expand...

Search for a pic of an oil pan , there are a few for sale on ebay . When you see the internal structure of an oil pan you will notice it divided into compartments . These compartments have small slots that let the oil return to the pick up tube but not slosh around too bad .

I picked up a few N's from a locale salvage yard and decided to get them running . After draining the milky oil I flushed the system and started them up . I recirculated at lot of trash that was stuck in the front right compartment .

When I removed the oil pan I noticed the compartment that the fill tube drained into and the center compartment where fairly clean but the front right still had debris .

All that being said , if I where going to flush contaminants from an N motor , I think I would remove the governor and see if I could get some diesel flowing in there and out of the drain .

Remember short bolt on top of the governor . If you install the long one on top it will chew up your timing gear .


Look at the last pic in this guys ad .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8N-9N-2N-Fo...pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f74469d1

I'm an engineer.

Though one of the co's I've worked for for ages is letting 100 of us go, with a possible re hire option in 6 m. I still work with a small gc, so had a lifeboat