Very Confused {Trouble starting and some)

machete

Member
Hello folks,
Im hoping to get a bit of help here on this tractor.

First I will say what I don't know if its a 2n 9n 8n. I bought it recent and no visible numbers, I know it has fergason on front plate. Forgot the year the guy said it was :(

I am new to the whole tractor seen to.

No the problems:
It was running and starting fine, then one day I shut it off. Then it would do absolutely nothing. Even hand cranking wont do it right away. I put the switch, hold the clutch down then hit the push button, and Nothing like nothing had power. Starter would not turn engine would not crank or anything just a slight hum.

So I replaced the battery - Then same problem, so I rebuilt carb and Starter with new bendix drive. I can occasionally get it started by leaving the battery charger on for a few hours then hand crank it and it starts. Rebuilt start just now seems to start engaging but still wont turn over. (possible spark issue?)

Anything you can suggest to check out, or think what it could be please throw that list my way have gravel to move.

Now question about the starter switch.
Its weird to me like it screws downward but goes to empty space?
Similar to this photo:
11F01-9N-Ford-Tractor-Starter-Switch-Button.jpg


I cant find one anywhere to replace so is there a way or different push button I can install or use?

Thank you everyone for your insight and suggestions (God knows I need them)[/img]
 

So that outer switch that screws in doesn't do anything but pushes something into that switch you showed?
 
Machete,That what the thumb button does on a 9N or 2N if your tractor is like the diagram you posted.The starter switch goes in front of the steering housing under the hood.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Your picture is the mechanical push button used on the 2N and
most 9Ns but not the 8N. You should have 3 forward gears.
If you have 4 forward gears, post back as that's different.

First I suggest you stop swapping parts. You will likely introduce
new problems. Charge the battery with a charger, even though
it's new. You didn't say if it were 6V or 12V.

While it is charging, clean all the battery cable connections on
both ends. They are a big cause of problems, especially on 6V
systems. If it's 6V, the cables need to be big as your finger 0
gauge cable. Automotive 4 gauge cable won't cut it.

The switch is just that, engaged by mechanical linkage.
You can buy them here on YT [b:014e28366a]IF[/b:014e28366a] you need one.
You can also jumper across it or around it with jumper cables
to see if it is the problem. Be sure the tractor is in neutral
since you are bypassing the neutral safety switch when you
do that!
 
Thanks guys, will check tomorrow morning,
How do I know about the 3 or 4 gear ordeal?

And sorry yes battery is a 6 volt. I am actually debating on updating everything as well as converting it to a 12 volt system.

Read up on doing that. But you mean I shouldn't fix or replace parts? Didn't swap any parts? just repairing.

Cleaned all but the battery post connectors when I did the starter so ill do that as well.

Is 12 volt conversion good or bad on 2/9n's?

Thanks again guys
 
Thanks den unfornately the serial number is worn off to where only one number is partially visible.

But picture wise looks very similar to that 1939 9N but mines blue.
 
(quoted from post at 19:38:41 04/18/15) Thanks guys, will check tomorrow morning,
How do I know about the 3 or 4 gear ordeal?

And sorry yes battery is a 6 volt. I am actually debating on updating everything as well as converting it to a 12 volt system.

Read up on doing that. But you mean I shouldn't fix or replace parts? Didn't swap any parts? just repairing.

Cleaned all but the battery post connectors when I did the starter so ill do that as well.

Is 12 volt conversion good or bad on 2/9n's?





Thanks again guys

Check the opposite ends of the battery cables. I have had a coating of barely visible gray oxide on a terminal insulate it from grounding. They need to be Shiny!
 
"How do I know about the 3 or 4 gear ordeal?"

They're marked around the base of the shifter.
 
(quoted from post at 19:38:41 04/18/15)

Is 12 volt conversion good or bad on 2/9n's?

I think it's entirely subjective. When I got my 2N the wiring, battery, coil, and generator were all in sorry shape. I updated to 12v since I was going to be replacing so much in the first place. If you are running just the engine and maybe headlights there is no reason to update to 12v if you are getting adequate spark strength resulting in clean fuel burn(change your ground cable to a multi-stranded 1/0 or 00 cable with heavy lugs).

Now if you're putting in xenon headlights, a rear work light and brake light, stereo, cigarette lighter, etc, then 12v might be more appropriate.
 
Ok,
It is a 3 gear + reverse.; Not sure if that would be considered 4 gears or not.

Also Starter is engaging now but I think lack of power or no spark. I am going to be updating a lot of parts on it so I might as well take it to 12 volt.

I appreciate everyones help and thoughts. I will keep updated if I get things going or not.

May be a week or two as I order parts and wait lol.
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 01:53:50 04/20/15) Ok,
It is a 3 gear + reverse.; Not sure if that would be considered 4 gears or not.

Also Starter is engaging now but I think lack of power or no spark. I am going to be updating a lot of parts on it so I might as well take it to 12 volt.

Not to push buttons or anything but it seems like you're reading, but not absorbing what you've read. You're going full steam ahead on a 12v conversion before knowing if you have a 2N/9N or an 8N? My suggestion is take a step back and solve the problems you have before overhauling the electrical system(which is a lot less plug n' play than it's advertised).
 
(quoted from post at 01:53:50 04/20/15) Ok,
It is a 3 gear + reverse.; Not sure if that would be considered 4 gears or not.

Also Starter is engaging now but I think lack of power or no spark. I am going to be updating a lot of parts on it so I might as well take it to 12 volt.

I appreciate everyones help and thoughts. I will keep updated if I get things going or not.

May be a week or two as I order parts and wait lol.
Thanks

That makes it a three speed. ..I don't usually post advice, mainly because i have very limited knowledge. What i have learned in the past year is the folks on this site have limitless knowledge and are eager to help anyone. With that being said, you still need to id your tractor. Post pics of it on here, someone will know what it is. Second, 12v system won't fix the starter. I know what is like to go head first into a project but reality is that's not best. These tractors work fine with a 6v system so save some cash now as you may need it for something else soon. As others have said, check connections, check wiring and check the battery. Good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 07:37:06 04/20/15)
(quoted from post at 01:53:50 04/20/15) Ok,
It is a 3 gear + reverse.; Not sure if that would be considered 4 gears or not.

Also Starter is engaging now but I think lack of power or no spark. I am going to be updating a lot of parts on it so I might as well take it to 12 volt.

I appreciate everyones help and thoughts. I will keep updated if I get things going or not.

May be a week or two as I order parts and wait

That makes it a three speed. ..I don't usually post advice, mainly because i have very limited knowledge. What i have learned in the past year is the folks on this site have limitless knowledge and are eager to help anyone. With that being said, you still need to id your tractor. Post pics of it on here, someone will know what it is. Second, 12v system won't fix the starter. I know what is like to go head first into a project but reality is that's not best. These tractors work fine with a 6v system so save some cash now as you may need it for something else soon. As others have said, check connections, check wiring and check the battery. Good luck.

I understand what people are saying. What I been seeing is as I start via starter that it either not getting spark and that the BRAND NEW 6v battery seems to fade as trying to start.

And when I say I am replacing parts (I am replacing all original ignition coil, voltage regulator, dis cap etc. Doing a full blown tune up with plugs wires etc.) Going 12 volt is from the choice of buying new generator or the 12v kit instead.

And I traced the electrical and didn't get a reading on one connection on the ignition coil. But starter, front mount dis, voltage regulator etc all get voltage readings. The battery starts at 6.2v then drops to 5.8 5.6 volts after trying to start.
I can start it after charging battery for a long while and leaving charger on while I try to start it.

Does that explanation help? I not saying I solved it but where can I go wrong replacing parts if all needs updated anyways?

Here is a couple pictures of the old ferg ie if anyone can help identify. Guess can't post from my mobile. I'll post later today.

And thanks[/img]
 
Someone here has said you can either keep throwing parts (and money) at it until you fix it or run out of money. My advice after owning two of these critters for over 20 yrs. (a 9N was my first tractor) is to diagnose the problems, THEN replace the bad parts, if any.

It sounds like to me that you will need to do what I did with my 8N, take every connection loose and shine it up, appears you have a drag that is not letting enough voltage to turn the starter and fire the plugs, also killing your battery. You should have battery voltage to the top of the coil... you did check that? I had the same issue after getting a new battery and it still wouldn't start unless I jumped it with a 12V battery or it just came off of the charger. There are ways to check the generator too, mine just needed a good cleaning and the belt tightened and it's good to go now. You might just check that the points are clean and gaped properly and points are opening and closing with proper gap at all 4 cam lobe positions before replacing it all, there might be nothing wrong with it. It's a small job to take a wrench and remove the distributor and work on it at the bench. Don't force it back on you can break the tabs, it will only go on one way.

Don't forget a crucial part of the tractor is the fuel system, from the bottom of the tank to the carb. Make sure you have good flow of gas. Also air supply, make sure the air cleaner isn't plugged up.

Someone will be along to help you diagnose the things you need to look at by priority.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:43 04/20/15) Someone here has said you can either keep throwing parts (and money) at it until you fix it or run out of money. My advice after owning two of these critters for over 20 yrs. (a 9N was my first tractor) is to diagnose the problems, THEN replace the bad parts, if any.

It sounds like to me that you will need to do what I did with my 8N, take every connection loose and shine it up, appears you have a drag that is not letting enough voltage to turn the starter and fire the plugs, also killing your battery. You should have battery voltage to the top of the coil... you did check that? I had the same issue after getting a new battery and it still wouldn't start unless I jumped it with a 12V battery or it just came off of the charger. There are ways to check the generator too, mine just needed a good cleaning and the belt tightened and it's good to go now. You might just check that the points are clean and gaped properly and points are opening and closing with proper gap at all 4 cam lobe positions before replacing it all, there might be nothing wrong with it. It's a small job to take a wrench and remove the distributor and work on it at the bench. Don't force it back on you can break the tabs, it will only go on one way.

Don't forget a crucial part of the tractor is the fuel system, from the bottom of the tank to the carb. Make sure you have good flow of gas. Also air supply, make sure the air cleaner isn't plugged up.

Someone will be along to help you diagnose the things you need to look at by priority.

Yeh I agree there are a lot of screws and connections rusty. Voltage regulator all 3 screws rusty etc. That's why I'm replacing all the rusty stuff. I mean 10 bucks for a simple part isn't bad. It needs some updating anyways right who knows when previous owners did anything.
 
Ok,
what is the best way to clean the battery connectors and other cable connectors? Steel wool pad or some type of product?

Also here are a few photos if anyone can help identify.

gallery_1_1_100555.jpg


gallery_1_1_82596.jpg


gallery_1_1_46411.jpg


thanks
 

That's what I used. They shined up nice. While you're at it, check each wire real good for any bare areas. Mine was doing the same as you described, found a bare wire, replaced it and all has been fine since.
 

I notice on the fan looking part on the generator looks like a side (blade) ordeal is broke on it. Would that make the generator act up or not do its job?

I am taking peoples advice on leaving it 6v for now and fixing the problem first before going 12v.

But I am still replacing all the low priced rusty looking parts so connections will be better and stronger. Just debating on a new generator or not, lose of power from battery makes me wonder if its not charging while running. If its anything like a car?

And from what I see even if its 2n 9n 8n most of those parts fit them all, is this correct or am I to just do a buy n try?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 22:54:52 04/20/15)
I notice on the fan looking part on the generator looks like a side (blade) ordeal is broke on it. Would that make the generator act up or not do its job?

I am taking peoples advice on leaving it 6v for now and fixing the problem first before going 12v.

But I am still replacing all the low priced rusty looking parts so connections will be better and stronger. Just debating on a new generator or not, lose of power from battery makes me wonder if its not charging while running. If its anything like a car?

And from what I see even if its 2n 9n 8n most of those parts fit them all, is this correct or am I to just do a buy n try?

Thanks


Did you polarize the generator after replacing the battery?
 
Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:16 04/20/15) Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks

Google jmor wire diagram.
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:43 04/20/15)
(quoted from post at 15:59:16 04/20/15) Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks

Google jmor wire diagram.

Very nice diagram but does not show the wire awg size.
And I take it we can identify by pictured or need other pictures?
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 00:29:43 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 16:03:43 04/20/15)
(quoted from post at 15:59:16 04/20/15) Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks

Google jmor wire diagram.

Very nice diagram but does not show the wire awg size.


And I take it we can identify by pictured or need other pictures?
Thanks

take a look at this diagram. It's not for your tractor but I think the awg would be the same.

Also if no one chimes in about tractor id, try starting a new thread.

19599.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:07:03 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 00:29:43 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 16:03:43 04/20/15)
(quoted from post at 15:59:16 04/20/15) Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks

Google jmor wire diagram.

Very nice diagram but does not show the wire awg size.


And I take it we can identify by pictured or need other pictures?
Thanks

take a look at this diagram. It's not for your tractor but I think the awg would be the same.

Also if no one chimes in about tractor id, try starting a new thread.

19599.jpg

Awesome thank you Swpaguy. I can definatley use that. I guess I can grab some more photos like to replace some rusty stuff but like to get for correct model tractor.

Im thinking roughly 1945ish 9n Tractor but ill start a identity thread.

Can you tell me how to tell if a generator is bad?
Thinking of taking advice and repairing 6v wise but if generator is bad then upgrading to the 12v.

I did get a voltage reading on generator while ignition is in the on position.

Still checking things. But doesn't seem to be a lot of suggestions here except clean contacts etc. I see that in 90% posts here.

I still need to do that when I get more time.

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:39 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 14:07:03 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 00:29:43 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 16:03:43 04/20/15)
(quoted from post at 15:59:16 04/20/15) Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks

Google jmor wire diagram.

Very nice diagram but does not show the wire awg size.


And I take it we can identify by pictured or need other pictures?
Thanks

take a look at this diagram. It's not for your tractor but I think the awg would be the same.

Also if no one chimes in about tractor id, try starting a new thread.

19599.jpg

Awesome thank you Swpaguy. I can definatley use that. I guess I can grab some more photos like to replace some rusty stuff but like to get for correct model tractor.

Im thinking roughly 1945ish 9n Tractor but ill start a identity thread.

Can you tell me how to tell if a generator is bad?
Thinking of taking advice and repairing 6v wise but if generator is bad then upgrading to the 12v.

I did get a voltage reading on generator while ignition is in the on position.

Still checking things. But doesn't seem to be a lot of suggestions here except clean contacts etc. I see that in 90% posts here.

I still need to do that when I get more time.

Thanks

Not contacts, connections.
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:39 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 14:07:03 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 00:29:43 04/21/15)
(quoted from post at 16:03:43 04/20/15)
(quoted from post at 15:59:16 04/20/15) Hi,
Yes I did what I could the screws n contacts are rusted but used my jumper cables and seen a tad spark so did connect thru the rust.

Can anyone tell me what awg wiring is used on these? All the same color green wires were used I'd like to eventually color code some. Not now unless be wire is need though.
Thanks

Google jmor wire diagram.

Very nice diagram but does not show the wire awg size.


And I take it we can identify by pictured or need other pictures?
Thanks

take a look at this diagram. It's not for your tractor but I think the awg would be the same.

Also if no one chimes in about tractor id, try starting a new thread.

19599.jpg

Awesome thank you Swpaguy. I can definatley use that. I guess I can grab some more photos like to replace some rusty stuff but like to get for correct model tractor.

Im thinking roughly 1945ish 9n Tractor but ill start a identity thread.

Can you tell me how to tell if a generator is bad?
Thinking of taking advice and repairing 6v wise but if generator is bad then upgrading to the 12v.

I did get a voltage reading on generator while ignition is in the on position.

Still checking things. But doesn't seem to be a lot of suggestions here except clean contacts etc. I see that in 90% posts here.

I still need to do that when I get more time.

Thanks
INT: The reason 90% of responses speak of bad cables/connections is because ign sw, coil, distributor, points, condenser, resistor, generator, regulator/cut out, etc. have absolutely ZERO to do with whether or not a full charged battery will result in the starter spinning the engine. Just starter, starter sw, cables, battery, clean connections! That's all.
 

Yeh starter spins I know this, And while trying to start tractor battery drains fast. But I get what seems like criticize for me saying replacing rusty parts over finding the initial problem. I can clean connections in which I already have tested this tested that, Mentioned that one ign resistor (think that's the name) contact doesn't register on meter etc.

All my questions Such as how to tell bad gernerator ets unanswered or gets answered with clean contacts. (can only shine them up so much).

Im sorry I guess I came to the wrong site.... Thank you for those whom have tried to help but seems im still at the point of no starting and fading battery from the beginning.

Im not giving on on the tractor just on the clean the connections advice. (already done that) and you can flame me all you want but the same suggestion over n over is redundant.

Ill just replace all those parts and be done with it.
 
Your starter is independent from the ignition system and the charging system , just share the battery .

Take the starter out of the equation and use a 12v battery with jumper cables to the lug on the starter and a ground NOT to the battery .

Temporarily run a hot wire to the coil . a minute of full voltage of five minutes of run time will be OK .

Post back if it is spinning over freely and getting spark .

Also remove the plug on the bottom of the carb . it should flow a half a quart with out slowing down . If it slows to a drip or trickle then you have a fuel issue which is easily confused with an electrical issue .

A fully charged battery will run a coil for days .

Get it running and then go after the charging system .
 
Oh thank you, rebuilt carb didn't think of a clogged line, will be checking tomorrow after work. Start spends by jumping but still didn't start. But will double check that again tomorrow as well.

I do have a question, the outlet from carb to air from top of tractor) what is the canister that they hook to? Took bottom off look like a bit of oil in there or something, is that normal?

ill post again. thanks ken
 
Slow down a bit my friend, that tractor ain't goin' no where.

"Im thinking roughly 1945ish 9n"

Your pictures definitely show a 9N/2N, not an 8N.
My guess would be a late 40 or 41 if it's a 9N, pre '45 if 2N.
9N's stopped in 41 and the 2N's took over in '42.
Parts would be the same with a possible rare exception.

"where can I go wrong replacing parts if all needs updated anyways"

Where you can go wrong here is that many of the new parts
you can buy are Crap right out of the box. They are of worse
quality and less likely to work than the old rusty ones that
have already proven their worth. Not to mention the cost.

"Can you tell me how to tell if a generator is bad?"

Search the archives for Motor Test. Soundguy explains it well.
But that has absolutely nothing to do with your starting issue.

I would say just disconnect the generator wires and tape them up.
You don't need them to get it running and that would eliminate
them as a possible drain on your battery. Once you get it cranking
(start circuit) you can diagnose the spark (ignition circuit) then
once its running you can diagnose the generator. (charging
circuit) All three of them are separate.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:50 04/21/15)
Yeh starter spins I know this, And while trying to start tractor battery drains fast. But I get what seems like criticize for me saying replacing rusty parts over finding the initial problem. I can clean connections in which I already have tested this tested that, Mentioned that one ign resistor (think that's the name) contact doesn't register on meter etc.

All my questions Such as how to tell bad gernerator ets unanswered or gets answered with clean contacts. (can only shine them up so much).

Im sorry I guess I came to the wrong site.... Thank you for those whom have tried to help but seems im still at the point of no starting and fading battery from the beginning.

Im not giving on on the tractor just on the clean the connections advice. (already done that) and you can flame me all you want but the same suggestion over n over is redundant.

Ill just replace all those parts and be done with it.
Yeah, starter spins, I know this....."

Really? "Starter would not turn engine would not crank or anything just a slight hum. "
 
Where you can go wrong here is that many of the new parts
you can buy are Crap right out of the box. .....


I would say just disconnect the generator wires and tape them up.
You don't need them to get it running and that would eliminate
them as a possible drain on your battery.

AMEN .

There is a filter ( or should be - I have seen them removed ) on the fitting inside of the tank and another above the glass bowl shut off valve . The last one is in the elbow going into the carb .

If your fuel flow is good don't worry about it . If there is a problem remove the line at the carb and see what the flow is there .

We had a guy here last week get a carb elbow that was not drilled through - solid - no flow out of the box .



P.S. do you have an ohm meter ? some of these guys are really sharp but they will need numbers to pin point your problem . Your resistor to the coil drops a couple volts and the genny adds a volt or so . Your actual number will tell a lot .
 
(quoted from post at 16:21:50 04/21/15)
Yeh starter spins I know this, And while trying to start tractor battery drains fast. But I get what seems like criticize for me saying replacing rusty parts over finding the initial problem. I can clean connections in which I already have tested this tested that, Mentioned that one ign resistor (think that's the name) contact doesn't register on meter etc.

All my questions Such as how to tell bad gernerator ets unanswered or gets answered with clean contacts. (can only shine them up so much).

Im sorry I guess I came to the wrong site.... Thank you for those whom have tried to help but seems im still at the point of no starting and fading battery from the beginning.

Im not giving on on the tractor just on the clean the connections advice. (already done that) and you can flame me all you want but the same suggestion over n over is redundant.

Ill just replace all those parts and be done with it.

Sure would be nice if that made you "done with it" but more likely just out $.
 
Showcrop,

There's a couple of Dylan lines:
"I can't provide for you no easy answers;
who are you that I should have to lie?"

Given the information at hand
and the circumstance
we have to work with.

We'd be lying if we said we were providing
an easy answer :)

Machete,

So no [b:e4644fa63c]easy[/b:e4644fa63c] means hard work on your part
but it ain't safe to assume that people offering help
weren't working hard enough on your behalf.
But when you're at your wit's end, like you must be
it's an easy conclusion to come to.

Hope you get it resolved.

Life's like dropping a carb check ball in your shop
or dropping some one-of-a-kind little keeper
that you are forced to crawl around on your knees
picking through steel dust and debris
to try and find.

Old MOTOR books are great.
I've got big thick hardcover I've had for years called [b:e4644fa63c]Auto Engines and Electrical Systems[/b:e4644fa63c]

Really cool trouble shooting.
By Blanchard and Ritchen S.A.E.

Let us know when you find the easy answer. :shock:

TT :)
 
(quoted from post at 18:54:56 04/21/15)
Sure would be nice if that made you "done with it" but more likely just out $.

Well its comments like this that seems pointless to me.

And for my pointless comment , Since there is more rust on this tractor then tractor it self, I am going to redo and update a lot of parts rerun color coded wiring. by parts I mean ign resistor, wires, spark plugs, plug wires, (generator or alt.) ign switch (push pull/ making it a key) start button, voltage regulator (or 12v regulator if convert) etc.

And I havn't purchased the parts yet due to identifying!!! Money isn't the issue time is!!!

And I drive 4 hours a day alone to and from to work, so during weekdays my time is limited.

So theres my pointless comment.

And Tall T,

I am not expecting easy anything. I do however expect as most would if someone ask a question to help determine something on anything, that possibilities could be offered.

No answers with engines be it in a car or tractor period are easy, Checking every possible crevice is key. So I honestly have no clue why you rant on and don't offer anything.

So please people Im done asking for help here I will clean everything filters etc check fuel lines as someone has suggested and do all the updates I stated. Each time I do something I will try to see if it runs before moving or installing anything next.

So please don't bother posting rhetorical useless comments anymore as this thread can be closed and I will receive my help on the other forums if I need it. I will not be watching this thread anymore.

And results ah forget it.

BTW Thanks to everyone who has contributed into finding the problem.
I will not be watching or commenting or looking at this post anymore so just wanted to thank those they did offer a bit of insight.
 
(quoted from post at 16:49:11 04/21/15)

I do have a question, the outlet from carb to air from top of tractor) what is the canister that they hook to? Took bottom off look like a bit of oil in there or something, is that normal?

ill post again. thanks ken

Yes that's normal. Above it should be steel wool looking stuff. That's the air cleaner. Remove the bottom cup, dump oil, clean with rag and refill with oil(should be a fill line). Take the air cleaner out and clean and replace.
 
Machete...I know you are gonna peek at this thread, just human nature.

You need to understand that you have been given a great deal of advice. Definitely not the way you wanted to hear it which is 'What parts do I change to fix my issue". But you will NEVER get that here. NO SHOTGUNNING PARTS HERE.

You need to slowly and methodically troubleshoot the issue and find where your problem is. Instead you jump from one component or system to the other without ever proving or disproving that one works or doesnt. You are adding issues not removing them.

First and most importantly I don't care if you bought your battery an hour ago. Charge it and keep it charged. A few times turning the starter will weaken the battery and may result in you not having aenough umphhh to feed the coil what it needs.. KEEP IT CHARGED.

You said the starter spins... fine. Does it spin in your hand or does it crank the engine?

You were asked to by pass-all the wiring and connect a wire from the battery to the top of the coil. Keeping it there for a few moments will not hurt anything. Just remember to remove it after testing. Did you? Did you try and start the engine? Did it start?

Have you checked for spark at each plug?
Are the plugs wet fouled?
Did you check the points, cap and rotor and properly set it up.

I only know that you cleaned up connections and checked for fuel flow at the carb. and that you want to convert to a 12v system and that you want to take a MACHETE chop approach to your troubleshooting.

Also lighten-up. Many old farts on this site who still make a living with these machines and have more advice for you than anywhere else you will go.
 
If you asked and didnt getbthe answer you wanted, aka change this this and this and it will start. Then your thougjt process is wrong. Both for fixing problems or seeking advice On them. The solution you are seeking is more of an appliance operator than a person who fixes and or restores these things. Looking back, I have had my pride hurt more than once on this forum. I felt bad at the time and felt vengfull and first. However in reflection I realize they were correct amd that is humbling experiance. That is the hardest thing to accept. The fact that it is a great big world and there are alot of smart and more importantly experienced people out there who know more than you! If you want help in any endevor be gracious enough to accept it regardless if it is what you want to hear or not. Anything else os more in line with a playground argument!
 

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