Old Fisher hydraulic plow on 8n

Pat1312

New User
Just bought my first tractor a 52 8n, living in new england i am planning on plowing snow with it. My question, is it possible to run an old fisher plow setup (the under hood belt driven pump) on the 8n. I understand there will be some fabrication involved but to me it look pretty simple, but I cant find anyone that has done it so it makes me feel like i am missing something. Any advice would be helpful, Thanks in advance.
 
Keep in mind that that 8N only has about 22 HP. It will also necessary to do some fabricating the get the pump in there. Some people have tapped the lift hydraulics to do the same thing. You could also attempt to run the pump off the PTO shaft. However, the PTO shaft is not live so when you push in the clutch it stops. Also with some work it might be possible to put in a front mount coupling to run the pump right off the engine.
 
I seen some hooked up the the N tractor that ran off the old CJ jeep Hi-Lo pumps. I even have one I took off My
old cletrac HG that use to work a snowplow blade but it ran off a pto pulley instead of the front of the crack.
You'll need to add a front pulley and make up a few brackets but it can be done. They look like hell hanging off
the side but when the snow's fling who care.

Kirk
 
I thought about using the test port but i would need to find a second port for the return line which isnt easy without a CNC machine. In my head the fisher pump would run just like any other hydraulic pump mounted to the side of the motor it just has its own resivior and control. I agree it would be larger then hell but I can get a complete setup with blade pump head gear and control for $300 or so off craigslist. I am a big form follows function guy so as long as it works! And it will be relativly self contained so I can return the tractor to original without to much hassle. To add a question do you think I could just get a longer belt (if I positioned it right) to replace the current belt and catch the new pulley? or what?
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:16 04/18/15) I thought about using the test port but i would need to find a second port for the return line which isnt easy without a CNC machine. In my head the fisher pump would run just like any other hydraulic pump mounted to the side of the motor it just has its own resivior and control. I agree it would be larger then hell but I can get a complete setup with blade pump head gear and control for $300 or so off craigslist. I am a big form follows function guy so as long as it works! And it will be relativly self contained so I can return the tractor to original without to much hassle. To add a question do you think I could just get a longer belt (if I positioned it right) to replace the current belt and catch the new pulley? or what?

I think you have serious geometry issues with the belt driven pump on a side distributor tractor. Much easier to install a shaft driven pump.

TOH
 
The pumps on the old Fisher units were quite small and didn't take much power. Way back, I had one that used a double pulley on the alternator with a short belt going to the pump from one of the pulley grooves, and the other grove hosting the belt from the crankshaft and water pump. I'm not saying that is the best way to do it, but back in the 50 and early 60's, that was one way the job was done.

If you are going to 12 volt this tractor (which I recommend for cold and snow) then you have another option and that is to buy a Meyers electrolift and turn system. The E-47 pump is a good vintage, taking a lot fewer amps than the competitor's Western lift. I have had both systems and have plowed snow since 1967. As a matter of fact, you don't even need to buy the Fisher pump and valve. Just salvage a PS pump (with resevoir) off an old car or PU. That is what I used for my first plow system. But you get into the time and cost of fabricating a mounting system so you can belt drive the PS. The Meyer is self contained and can be easily taken off the tractor during the off season. The Meyer and any electrolift system need a good alternator (60 amp is enough) and a good battery. If you use a 60 amp alternator, then you should either double up your 10 gauge output wire to the dashboard and starter solenoid terminal, or replace it with a #8. The electrolift needs another automotive type solenoid so it does not have power going out to the lift full time (only while lifting or turning the blade). In my mind the electrolift is the easiest installation, but if we have a tractor that already has live hydraulics and a pair of remote valves, then I'd use the hydraulic system for blade lift and maybe turn. I currently have both type of systems in operation and find them to be equally reliable (good wiring and good maintenance!). My son and I plow 30 accounts, so our equipment sees plenty of use.

One thing to consider when purchasing a blade is the length of the blade. The old Jeeps and Scouts often were fitted with a 6'6" blade and that would be enough for an 8N. 3/4 ton PUs often carried 7'6" or 8' blades and that is too much for the N . All of the N's are light on the front end and a bigger blade will cause the tractor to lose steering control and suddenly dart sideways as the snow builds up in front of the blade, if the blade is turned to throw the snow off the side of the driveway.

Build your mounting frame so it connects to the rear hitch or better yet the stabilizer brackets which are below the fenders. If you can make the frame so that it can pivot a bit (right to left) that will create much less strain on the tractor. Absolutely !! DO NOT attach the push frame to the front axle. That will drive the shock forces back through the engine block and possibly break the block. The frame can be attached to the front axle mount in such a way that the axle mount holds the frame up off the ground, but do not allow the pushing forces to go to the axle mount.

The 6 ft or 6'6" Western blade that was fitted to 1940's and 50's Jeeps is my preferred blade for the N. The Western blade was curved to roll the snow better at slow speed. The Meyers blade had a flatter face and worked better for the speed of a truck pushing it. I do not know about the Fisher blade.

Lots to think about....

Paul in MN
 
Thanks everyone for the great info, a lot more to think about then I originally thought...well at least I have a little time to figure it out. Right now I don't have plans to need more hydraulics then just the plow, but maybe it's worth the extra effort up front to have more options down the road. Front mount pump might be best bet...
 
Here's what I did to lift a front plow. Used two cylinders with captive oil between them.
It worked good.
I could drop the whole thing off as a unit - plow, hydraulics, everything and have a 'normal' N.

RearDown.jpg


RearUp.jpg
 

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