Anybody have any tips, hints, good advice for replacing the distributor bushings? 41 9n front mount distributor. Haven't taken it apart yet but got some play in the bushing in the back. Did I read on here somewhere about someone having a jig or tool to set the timing with? Rebuild dist.,rebuild carb.,install new manifold and hopefully she'll be ready to mow.
- Thread starter mike9n
- Start date
You can dissasemble the distributor and then make up a bushing puller or press the old bushings out using a vice or Hydraulic press. New bushings are then pressed in making sure that your punch has a end area that will slide into the new bushing's hole as well as a shoulder to push on the wall of the new bushing. There is a device shown in the Ford shop manual FO-4 that shows how to align the distributor rotor. The points on the front mount are set at .015 , and can be done with a feeler gage. The setting of the points can be done on the kitchen table if necessary. If the distributor shaft is worn it is best to replace the shaft. The shaft shud fit very snuggly, so it turns smoothly in the new bushings so there is no slop or side play.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:
1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.
2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.
3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.
Make sure your distributor isn’t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).
Factory Specs:
Shaft top .4367 / .4370
Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630
Cam Flats .789 / .791
Cam Lobes .869 / .871
Base Tang .177 / .178
A jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make setting the timing quicker & more accurate.
http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/id11.html
75 Tips
1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.
2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.
3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.
Make sure your distributor isn’t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).
Factory Specs:
Shaft top .4367 / .4370
Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630
Cam Flats .789 / .791
Cam Lobes .869 / .871
Base Tang .177 / .178
A jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make setting the timing quicker & more accurate.
http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/id11.html
75 Tips
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
I think TOH's site has been down for while...maybe he'll chime in to verify...
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[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>
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Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Here you go!
http://windyridgefarm.us/
http://windyridgefarm.us/
If you are mechanically inclined it is not a hard job . The big bushing is pretty straight toward , lightly tap it out or press it with a vice . The smaller front bushing is supported by a light frame that will bend if you do not have support . I usually drive it out from the back side while using a large deep well socket that fits tight around the frame and bushing .
Even with a jig it is a good idea to use an ohm meter or test light to verify the points are actually opening and closing the circuit .
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YziGkA5wPbY
Even with a jig it is a good idea to use an ohm meter or test light to verify the points are actually opening and closing the circuit .
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YziGkA5wPbY
Hello all,
I found this thread after doing a internet search on 9N distribuitor bushings. Please be easy on me as I am a newbie working on this stuff.
I need to replace mine so I went to my local tractor shop armed with the 2 part numbers mentioned above (for the front and rear bushings)
They gave me 2 bushings (in the same pkg) with the part number 18-12132 stamped on the pkg and told me the 2 bushings in the package are for the rear and the front.
Well, the rear obviously looks to be correct but the front bushing they sold me is much larger than the one that sit in that tower on the plate.
Did they sell me the wrong size bushing for the front? I told them it was for a front mount distributor.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_DgWH24fIlkWlpUX0prY3ZtWTQ/view?usp=sharing
I found this thread after doing a internet search on 9N distribuitor bushings. Please be easy on me as I am a newbie working on this stuff.
I need to replace mine so I went to my local tractor shop armed with the 2 part numbers mentioned above (for the front and rear bushings)
They gave me 2 bushings (in the same pkg) with the part number 18-12132 stamped on the pkg and told me the 2 bushings in the package are for the rear and the front.
Well, the rear obviously looks to be correct but the front bushing they sold me is much larger than the one that sit in that tower on the plate.
Did they sell me the wrong size bushing for the front? I told them it was for a front mount distributor.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_DgWH24fIlkWlpUX0prY3ZtWTQ/view?usp=sharing
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