I am starting to work on this 8n 1950 ford I bought last fall. Its been sitting outside for a long time. I decided to drain the oil from the rear end, hydraulics and transmission. I have checked on here and if I am correct you fill all three of these departments through the filler cap by the shifter with a side plug on the transmission to check the level at an amount of 5 gallons to fill all three compartments. Is this correct or am I missing something. So far there wasn't any water in the oil. since it is missing the dip stick for the hydraulic reservoir im surprised. I have changed the oil and filter in the motor. installed new plugs. Removed the rear wheels. Brakes on both sides seems to work fine. I don't have any manuals so I will be looking for some downloads if there out there or try to buy them off the internet. All help and comments welcome as I am new to the 8n fords. thanks Norm
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" if I am correct you fill all three of these departments through the filler cap by the shifter with a side plug on the transmission to check the level at an amount of 5 gallons to fill all three compartments. "
Yes you fill all three compartment thru the opening on the top of the transmission. Remove the bottom bolt on the round inspection cover (that's the round cover on the right side under the seat where the dip stick should be). When oil starts to come out you are full.
Yes you fill all three compartment thru the opening on the top of the transmission. Remove the bottom bolt on the round inspection cover (that's the round cover on the right side under the seat where the dip stick should be). When oil starts to come out you are full.
Before you pour 50 dollars worth of oil in the trans you might want to take a good look at the Hydraulic pump and the cavity it sits in. It may give you an indication of how nasty the oil was. Now would be the time to determine if a though cleaning is in order. You can look at the pump through the side access panels, the trans through the fill port.
Reason to remove bottom bolt and stop when fluid starts to come out (per HCookes post) is there may be a bunch of sludge in base and 5 gal. will overfill it (might only hold 4 -4 1/2 gal. allowing fluid to get onto your brakes ruining them. Per OBwan's post checking if a clean out before filling is easier than finding out it's full of crud. If the gasket get ruined while removing inspection plate a new gasket can be made from a pizza box.
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
Welcome, Probie!
The hydraulic system holds 5 gallons, but best to only fill with 4 gallons an check level so you don't start leaking due to overfill. Get a dipstick -you don't want any orifice for water to get in. You will want to get the battery charged, or if it is over 5 years old, get a new one. Go the extra mile for a good one like an Interstate AG as the cheaper ones won't last long -about half the life of a good one. DO NOT get a Deep Cycle battery -those are for golf carts and boats. Rebuild the distributor with new points and condenser. Get the Blue Streak brand or ECHLIN brand, again, cheap Chena made parts are junk and will fail fast. Get a copy of the I&T F-04 manual, an Operator manual for your model year, and a Master Parts Catalog -39-52 or an original May, 1949 one. Read them religiously.
[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
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The hydraulic system holds 5 gallons, but best to only fill with 4 gallons an check level so you don't start leaking due to overfill. Get a dipstick -you don't want any orifice for water to get in. You will want to get the battery charged, or if it is over 5 years old, get a new one. Go the extra mile for a good one like an Interstate AG as the cheaper ones won't last long -about half the life of a good one. DO NOT get a Deep Cycle battery -those are for golf carts and boats. Rebuild the distributor with new points and condenser. Get the Blue Streak brand or ECHLIN brand, again, cheap Chena made parts are junk and will fail fast. Get a copy of the I&T F-04 manual, an Operator manual for your model year, and a Master Parts Catalog -39-52 or an original May, 1949 one. Read them religiously.
[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>
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Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
It is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system & if the distributor is on the front of the engine or on the side. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.
" I have checked on here and if I am correct you fill all three of these departments through the filler cap by the shifter"
Yep. Tips 3 & 4 at the link.
" I don't have any manuals"
Check out tip # 39; and get them soon before you break something!
" installed new plugs"
Did you gap them at .025?
You will probably need points as well; tell us if it's a front or side distributor & we can tell you how to do that.
Re parts......get new parts from this site or nnalert's
For used parts, like the dipstick, these guys should be able to help you w/ used parts:
John Smith smith8NATatt.net
Rod Mondor fltractorATpeoplepc.com
Replace the AT in the address w/ @
75 Tips
" I have checked on here and if I am correct you fill all three of these departments through the filler cap by the shifter"
Yep. Tips 3 & 4 at the link.
" I don't have any manuals"
Check out tip # 39; and get them soon before you break something!
" installed new plugs"
Did you gap them at .025?
You will probably need points as well; tell us if it's a front or side distributor & we can tell you how to do that.
Re parts......get new parts from this site or nnalert's
For used parts, like the dipstick, these guys should be able to help you w/ used parts:
John Smith smith8NATatt.net
Rod Mondor fltractorATpeoplepc.com
Replace the AT in the address w/ @
75 Tips
Thanks for the comments. The coil is on the front of the engine. the distributor is on the right front corner. I did gap the plugs. I have the gas tank off and the rear wheels off. When I pulled the rear axle plug nothing came out. I though oh no this aint good but when I put the screw driver up the hole the oil started flowing. A lot more than expected didn't spill to much. Should have done some checking before I took the plug out. That when I realized it must have all been the same oil. just glad there doesn't seem to be any water in the oil. I plan on converting it over to 12 volt. All the steering looks good and turns pretty easy. I have a ford 501 sickle mower I want to put on it once I get it all running good. Not sure what I will do as far as painting it. Getting it to work right is my main concern as I plan on using it. It had one rear wheel weight on the right side. I am thinking about leaving it off. Anyway thank you all for your comments.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
" Thanks for the comments. The coil is on the front of the engine. the distributor is on the right front corner."
I'll guess that you have a sidemount distributor. Does it look like the picture or not?
" just glad there doesn't seem to be any water in the oil."
Yea, that's good news. But the bad news is that it's full of sludge & crud. That's why the oil wouldn't drain out. When you're ready to drop & clean the pump & sumps, post back & we can help w/ that.
" I plan on converting it over to 12 volt. "
Why?
75 Tips
I'll guess that you have a sidemount distributor. Does it look like the picture or not?
" just glad there doesn't seem to be any water in the oil."
Yea, that's good news. But the bad news is that it's full of sludge & crud. That's why the oil wouldn't drain out. When you're ready to drop & clean the pump & sumps, post back & we can help w/ that.
" I plan on converting it over to 12 volt. "
Why?
75 Tips
I took a closer look at my 8n and it is the same as the one you have in the photo. mines is not that pretty though. That's a nice tractor. I just was never a fan of the 6 volt system. I remember when the cars had them. The winters were tough on them. 12 volt was a big change. I will put an single line alternator on it. those seem to very well on my other equipment. They do a great job keeping the batteries charged. As much as batteries cost now I need to have them last as long as I can. just my thought. Thanks Norm
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Yep, 6v on a car wasn't fun; I owned plenty of them. But, there is a big difference between a 23hp low compression tractor engine & those 85 hp high compression engines of 60 years ago. 12v was needed to spin them over, especially in cold weather.
I've got 5 old Ford tractors; one 12v & 4 6v. Can't see a bit of difference trying to start them in the winter.
Re battery life.....I hard-wired all of my stuff for float chargers. A Model, tractors & golf cart. Batteries usually last 8+ years.
When you get ready to do the 12v conversion, just ask here; plenty of guys have done them correctly & are happy w/ the result.
75 Tips
I've got 5 old Ford tractors; one 12v & 4 6v. Can't see a bit of difference trying to start them in the winter.
Re battery life.....I hard-wired all of my stuff for float chargers. A Model, tractors & golf cart. Batteries usually last 8+ years.
When you get ready to do the 12v conversion, just ask here; plenty of guys have done them correctly & are happy w/ the result.
75 Tips
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