electronic ignition? pro's/con's

Braxmaier

Member
150925547873 ebay has electronic ignition what's the pro's and cons they run about 140 or so.. hopefully this link will take you to it..
 
Very nice when they are working..If it quits working and u are on the back 40 u get to tow
it to the barn and get another $128.00 part to fix it...If points foul u can fix it on the
back 40 and go back to plowing-then at first opportunity replace the points and condenser
for under $30. Yr ago put electronic ign, in 65 Mustang--best upgrade since I bought it in
1972...might do it to my 2N someday just for the heck of it...
 
This very site, our hosts, can fix you up with the same (Pertronix) stuff at s similar price.

If you are buying WHY not support them?

There are some of us who put the conversion at the level of a new set up breaker points that doesn't deteriorate or age.

Others say it performs SO much better and is the best thing since sliced bread.

Pretty much up to you, and the cost will buy a LIFETIME supply of breaker points with a steak dinner left over.

Just be aware there's a WORLD of difference between OEM or high performance EI's or CDI's and this basic unit that subs for a set of points.
 
(quoted from post at 21:12:39 03/29/15) This very site, our hosts, can fix you up with the same (Pertronix) stuff at s similar price.

If you are buying WHY not support them?

There are some of us who put the conversion at the level of a new set up breaker points that doesn't deteriorate or age.

Others say it performs SO much better and is the best thing since sliced bread.

Pretty much up to you, and the cost will buy a LIFETIME supply of breaker points with a steak dinner left over.

Just be aware there's a WORLD of difference between OEM or high performance EI's or CDI's and this basic unit that subs for a set of points.
normally buy here, is this an easy installation?
 
Braxie.........I hand built an electronic ignition fer my 1956 Dodge D-500 V-8 in 1962. I met the genius who developed the CD-ignition in Grand Junction, Colo in 1958. While I admire Pertronix and their kit (?) fer the 5-nipple side mount 8N, I ABHOR their kit for the 4-nipple front mount dizzy. And LASTLY, their kit don't sparkle well with 6-volt positive ground. It likes 12-volts negative ground.

You do know ittza 2-bolt 15-min job to remove the 4-nipple front mount dizzy and replace the points ($20, cheap) on the kitchen table, don't you? Just un-snapple yer capple and remove the 2-bolts and walk to the kitchen table. Install the points (0.015") and clamp a corner of a $1-bill between the points and pull to POLISH the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points. Now walk back to yer tractor and finger start the 2-bolts. Puttchur rotor on and twist the rotor so the OFF-SET tang fits into the camshaft OFF-SET slot. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? You can replace yer points every year fer 7-yrs the cost of electronic ignition. Generally, points will last at least 5-yrs before they need replacing. (fer the mathematically challenged, that 35-yrs of tractor operation) ..........HTH rethinking yer points problem........yer self-appointed sparkie-meister Dell
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:18 03/29/15) Braxie.........I hand built an electronic ignition fer my 1956 Dodge D-500 V-8 in 1962. I met the genius who developed the CD-ignition in Grand Junction, Colo in 1958. While I admire Pertronix and their kit (?) fer the 5-nipple side mount 8N, I ABHOR their kit for the 4-nipple front mount dizzy. And LASTLY, their kit don't sparkle well with 6-volt positive ground. It likes 12-volts negative ground.

You do know ittza 2-bolt 15-min job to remove the 4-nipple front mount dizzy and replace the points ($20, cheap) on the kitchen table, don't you? Just un-snapple yer capple and remove the 2-bolts and walk to the kitchen table. Install the points (0.015") and clamp a corner of a $1-bill between the points and pull to POLISH the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points. Now walk back to yer tractor and finger start the 2-bolts. Puttchur rotor on and twist the rotor so the OFF-SET tang fits into the camshaft OFF-SET slot. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? You can replace yer points every year fer 7-yrs the cost of i d oelectronic ignition. Generally, points will last at least 5-yrs before they need replacing. (fer the mathematically challenged, that 35-yrs of tractor operation) ..........HTH rethinking yer points problem........yer self-appointed sparkie-meister Dell
I do have a 12v side mount, so what your telling me is just leave the point system in place and disregard the electronic ignition? I'm new to your tractor talk master someday I will to be a Jedi night.
 
Brax-
If it ain't broke... What Dell says goes. If you have a dairy farm or raise livestock and need a good, reliable working tractor or even a fleet of them, then going to a 12-volt system and even an electronic ignition system is a wise, practical choice because you will be using it or them everyday for many hours per day. Even back in the day these fine old iron machines did run farms all day on the 6-volt positive ground system. Like anything, preventative maintenance is the key factor to ensure optimum performance. So, in my opinion, if you don't run your tractor everyday for hours on end, leave it at original 6-volts and keep it maintained and you will not have problems with it not starting even in zero degree temps.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
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I put EI in a 12V tractor and drove it for 7 or 8 years.
I got excellent performance out of it and did not have to touch the distributer in that time.
2 1/2 years ago I sold it to a guy who still calls me on occasion for advice on implements and such. I always ask about 'my' tractor.
It is still running great.
For the first few years, till I began to trust it I kept a set of points and condenser in a ziplock bag under the dash. It is easy to switch back if needed. I never needed them so I used them in another tractor.
Over the 14 years I've been on this board there has been the bitterest kind of fighting over EI VS points.
Do a search for EI and read some of them.
I have not been the kindest person in those arguments.
I am sorry for that.
So I am trying to just present facts and not opinions, see both sides of the argument and not start the battles again.
EI is not for everyone.
It is expensive. It can not be repaired like points. It is suseptable to failure if polarity is reversed. It wont add horsepower, fix your charging system, wont make your paint shinier, allow you to avoid regular visits to your dentist or fix leaking tires.
It will make it so you wont have ever have to clean or adjust your points.
That is all.
To many people that makes it worth the money.
 
Actually Tim,
Running a tractor day in day out gets you the best service out of points.
It's a tractor that sits and is rarely used or is stored in a damp shed or outside that benefits the most from EI.
 
(quoted from post at 07:59:34 03/30/15) 150925547873 ebay has electronic ignition what's the pro's and cons they run about 140 or so.. hopefully this link will take you to it..

I can not dream up a CON,,, Improvements cost money to me the cost is worth it.. :D

I get mine from Advance Auto they order it I have it the next day... If I had a issue they would gladly take it back no questions asked...

I converted a couple of my Farmalls over last year I have not had any of those issues folks have dreamed up occur... Most of the hatters never had there hands on a EI set up and go by folk lore are by the issues others have had that can not be proven to be a EI issue...

EI works are it don't the diagnostics is very simple more simpler than a points set up that suffers from mechanical/electrical issues from the day you install it...

I wounder about others EI opinion when they guess at points issues... Mechanical switches also wear with each cycle and thus have a life that's limited by the frequency of the user...

EI is not a perfect switch but pretty close to it...
 

I converted my 1950 8N to 12 volt and EI. I used the pertronix 12 Volt Coil when I did the swap and did not use the resistor. You will need it if you do not change the coil.
 
Depends on if your tractor is 6v or 12v & if it has a front or side distributor.......but most importantly, it depends on what the manufacturers instructions say.
75 Tips
 
EI module likes full voltage.
You mentioned below you have a side mount and you have 12 volts.
So it depends on which coil you have. Some 12V coils require a resistor. Some do not.
I recently had to replace a 12V coil. Got one from Napa and it says right on the side, "no external resister required".
Look at your coil and see if you have any printing on it.
Post it here and maybe someone will recognize a part number and be able to tell you.
The easiest way (for us electrically challenged types) is to buy the right coil and eliminate the resister.
 

I put one on my '52 side mount dist./12V and it works great. I think it's worth the $$$. If you get one, pay attention to the instructions and use the "CC" hole (counter clockwise rotation) for mounting. It has a "C" for clockwise and then the "CC" for our distributors.
 
(quoted from post at 04:04:35 03/31/15) EI module likes full voltage.
You mentioned below you have a side mount and you have 12 volts.
So it depends on which coil you have. Some 12V coils require a resistor. Some do not.
I recently had to replace a 12V coil. Got one from Napa and it says right on the side, "no external resister required".
Look at your coil and see if you have any printing on it.
Post it here and maybe someone will recognize a part number and be able to tell you.
The easiest way (for us electrically challenged types) is to buy the right coil and eliminate the resister.

EI module is not wired threw the coil they are feed direct switched battery voltage... 6 are 12V... The instructions should list coil Resistance... Like a 6/12 conversion He can use a 6V coil if he uses the proper resister...

Most of the other issues that have been dreamed up by paper tigers is not true....
 
Hobo, would u even consider EI on a 2N that is converted to 12 volts and running with only
the ballast resistor? Thanks
 
I plan on using the protronix high performance 12v coil so would I use the resistor?

From what I understand , which is limited , that "HOT" coil will not help one bit more than a standard coil . If you are running 10:1 compression on the red line yes , but at 6.5:1 @ 2200 rpm - nothing gained .

You can spend a few extra bucks if it makes you feel better .

You want about 3.25 ohms resistance total . I think most of those flame thrower coils need an added resistor .
 
I put the Pertronix kit in my side mount 8N. 12V conversion.
Pretty easy installation on a side mount, a little wiring to do.
The instructions were pretty clear and easy to follow.
I didn't notice any difference in starting or running performance.

The magnetic ring fell apart on mine, in less than a week IIRC.
I figure it was a manufacturing defect. They happen.
So I called Pertronix and they replaced the ring, no questions
asked. Great support. Took it less than a week to get here.

But by then I had put the points back in it so I could use the
tractor. I still haven't bothered to put the EI back in as I didn't
see a benefit other than not having to clean/adjust points
periodically, which is no big deal on a side mount anyway.

$100+ hanging on the peg board. Maybe I'll play with it later.
 
I guess that was part of my point -that these tractors ran in their prime many hours, everyday, except Sunday for the most part and thus nothing wrong with the original 6-volt/positive ground, front mount distributor with points. Not saying there weren't other issues like a weak charging system especially when lights were installed. My grandfather was the first person in Huron County, Michigan to own a brand new 1939 Ford-Ferguson 9N tractor and implements. My uncles told me that people came from many miles around to see it work the fields and after wanted to hire them and/or the tractor out to do their farms. They also told me that they would have to stop every few hours to tighten up the generator tensioning bolt as it would slip under load and if you didn't, you'd have a dead battery by the end of the day.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
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