8n engine block crack

gac1218

Member
While in the process of doing an overhaul on my engine I broke a stud off and drilled it out and was trying to back it out with an easy out and it cracked the block between the stud hole and one of the coolant holes. It's on the outer edge of the valve side of the engine. What are my options? Will jb weld work?
 
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Picture worked fine. I don't think JB Weld would hold up.
You might find more damage when you take the manifold off.
If it is a front distributor block it might be fairly easy to replace.
Side mount a little more difficult to find but they're out there.
Others may have more options.
 
You think block needs to be replaced? How about a machine shop repair? It is a front mount distributor. Is it worth it to try and jb weld it, if my only other option is a new block?
 
I'd Vee it out and then weld it with nickle rod. The stud at the right rear corner of the block is the common one to bust out of the block. Treat that one real gentle. Use many heat/cool cycles with ATF for penetrating oil. Don't heat the block, just the stud. I wouldn't panic about the break from a head bolt hole to the water jacket, as this is not a high compression engine. Just clean it up good, Vee it out a bit, pre-heat the overall area, weld it, and cool slowly by covering the hot area with vermiculite or wood ash. Grind it flat with the block surface. Many of the bolt holes go into the open cooling water area anyway, and on a fresh rebuild, the coolant sometimes seeps up around a head bolt or stud. A little stop-leak will take care of that problem, if it occurs. If you use studs instead of headbolts (which I do recommend - studs that is..) Look up the torque value for the fine thread nuts. It is less than the torque value for the coarse thread headbolts. I don't have my specs book here in the office, but my poor memory says 85 ft lbs for the headbolts, and 55 ft lbs for the stud nuts. You do not want to stress that block by over tightening.

Good Luck

Paul in MN
 
That crack goes for miles . I would bet you will find more once you pull the exhaust manifold .

You can weld on it yourself and maybe get lucky , if not you are only out a few bucks on gaskets .

Ebay has blocks come up and you can ask those guys that part out tractors if they will make you a deal . If they don't have one listed they can create a buy it now for you .

A few guys here have parts also .
 
"You think block needs to be replaced? How about a machine shop repair?"

I think once you pull the manifold you will find it is worse than what the picture shows.
I also think a used replacement would be less money than a machine shop repair.
I'm not claiming to be an expert in block repair, but a used one can be
bought pretty cheap and if you were rebuilding anyway it's not much more work.

I don't have a spare N block but John Smith might or Wildchild,
LisaK or other members. Depends on your location I guess.
 
"trying to back it out with an easy out and it cracked the block between the stud hole and one of the coolant holes."

I'm gonna call "BS" on that one!

There's NO WAY that crack was caused by drilling into the stud or using a "NOT likely to come out".

It was an existing crack that was exposed during cleanup to deal with the broken stud.
 
Don't know where you're located, but if you're in the pacific northwest, I have a complete front mount tractor that needs valve/head work that you could take home for $500. A bit more work than getting just a block that's ready to build. Sheet metal is even in good shape. Does need tires and rear wheels, but you probably have those. Just sayin'.....
 
I'm sure I have a block if you are in the New Jersey Area. Shipping weights often kill a deal. Email is open.

Kirk
 

About all we use JB for is gluing little magnets onto plastic butterflys for use on the refrigerator. Beyond that the stuff is worthless and using it is a fool's errand.
 
That crack is so close to the edge that I would not use it. It may be repairable, but I would not trust it to just anyone to weld it. I would be looking for a block.
 
Looks like you haven't got too far in doing the over haul yet. Best to just replace the block. Around here a fount mount can be had off CL for
$100 to $150. If you are needing it done in a hurry, you might have to pay the shipping for one if there' not one locally.
 
Sorry Bob but it's not B. S. Some one must have used lock tite or something on the stud. You can see in the picture that it is fully drilled out. The taper of the e z out wedged the hole open until it broke. Looking back, maybe I should have tried to tap it out the rest of the way when it was still not coming.
Either way it appears I am looking for a reasonable used block somewhere in the vicinity of Maryland, Mid Atlantic area that I can drive to.
 
I bought a bottle of a stop leak product that is advertised as a Permanent leak fix. I got it at O'Reilly's. It is in a blue container. The others will work for a couple of years. I put it in two tractors and I have not changed the oil yet to verify that it works as advertised. JB Weld is limited to different amount oif heat, based on which one you buy. They will all work on the outside water jacket, but I think any crack next to the cylinders will be to hot to handle.
Do you feel Lucky?
SDE
 
Great Meadows NJ 07838. You said front dizzy? I will see what I have and check condition and let you know.
 
(quoted from post at 02:12:25 03/29/15) Great Meadows NJ 07838. You said front dizzy? I will see what I have and check condition and let you know.
K. Yes front distributor.
 

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