2n wont start slow crank

im back. i have followed some advice, mostly
bruceva and soundguy and i think im real close.
been following the 75 tips etc
here the rundown-
2n front mount distributor 6v

ran ok, i rarely use it. one day wouldnt start and
i cranked way too much. it suddenly made a short
sound and all efforts ceased. i walked away to
return a few days later to attempt diagnose. i
find the ignition coil kind of exploded.

replaced the coil, inspected points and condenser
( brought ton the guys at the firehouse cause i
dont understand what im looking at), needed to
replace a damaged rotor (my fault, -20 degrees
that day) and distributor cap ( noticed a chip
nothing major),didnt do the exact recomended spark
check but i did check and verified a strong spark
on all 4 using an inline tester, didnt do the
whole 1/4" on an old plug.checked for fuel at
bottom of carb. ended up cleaning screens at
sediment bowl and elbow at carb, tapped w hammer
handle for a bit added 2.5 gallons fresh fuelsince
it was very low, and i got a good consistent fuel
flow at bottom bolt. charged the battery even
though reads fine on voltmeter. plugged in a
heater that it has near the starter and let that
heat up and bubble and gurggle for a while.

the result is still a very slow crank. i then
decide to jump with a 12v as told to, using post
on starter and then grounding. i get the same
difficult crank, slightly stronger, but still only
one revolution or rotation before i need to remove
the cable then i try again and get one revolution.

am i missing something?
thanks for any help. also i am far from a
mechanic, i think i know enough to get myself in
trouble so i may ask for descriptions of things
that im not sure of

forgot to mention i replaced the dry rot wires fom starter and batterry and got a braided ground strap replacing a horrendous ground.

Put it in high gear & have someone tow you around until it starts.

hahaha

next problem is the porcupines ate a hole through
my tire, like i said, i dont use it much.

but i cant talk my wife into a new tire for a
tractor that isnt running

can i justify or promise her the tire will get it
running?

Bad starter.

If it's -20 when you are starting it, the slow cranking speed is due to the cold oil in the transmission. Hold the clutch down while cranking to remove drag from the transmission. If you do this and still have a slow cranking starter, might be time to rebuild/replace that starter.

Colin, MN

okay the clutch in definitely helped. i got a bit more crank than i had been, it didnt start but i heard a burp
but battery needs a charge again

so does this prove that i have a weak starter and need to replace or rebuild it?

I would wager your starter is fine. Charge your battery, put in a sew set of spark plugs, and try again. It should start.

Gap your Autolite 437 plugs to 0.025".

Colin

jasond........didja know you can have a semi-dead cell inna lead-acid battery and it will test good...but...won't start yer tractor. You can test it with a volt meter and still won't tell you 'nuttin'....but...a specific gravity tester (even the cheepies with floating balls) will tell you which cell is bad. Bottom line, BAD cell = BAD battery. Squander yer money and gitta NEW battery.

As fer 1-rumpa on yer stater motor and a "dead" battery; try removing the 8-in screws and pull yer starter motor out about 1/2". Take a wire brush (even a wire wheel on an electric drill) and scrape the gap fer better ground. Simple, eh? ........electrical Dell

He still has a bad starter as he said a 12 volt boost didn't help.

Read ALL of his posts, Teddy:

" but battery needs a charge again '

thank you all for your help this far.

the weather has broke, spring is here and was only -11 in the neighborhood last night.
today is quite warm and i am giving her a try.

the battery charger has helped alot, still havent gotten a tester but may go to town soon and get one.

the starter seems to crank well and then a spinning sound. if i wait and try again, its a 50-50 shot wether it cranks or spins. eventually will crank again though.

what is it that i am supposed to clean when i remove the starter 1/2"?
this engine heater is right in the way to make that a simple task.

she did give me the wonderful burp that she does right before running, but still yet to actually run

so after writing that reply, i went out, and she started! ran for a few seconds w the choke pulled entirely, then started to not sound so good so i put the choke in, she stalled and is now back to the same.

any tips on my next step are greatly appreciated,
seems a battery is going to be in order due to our temperatures here, maybe take the starter to a guy in town that works on them.

she ran well enough to get that new rear tire also

(quoted from post at 10:50:36 03/24/15)
the starter seems to crank well and then a spinning sound. if i wait and try again, its a 50-50 shot wether it cranks or spins. eventually will crank again though.

what is it that i am supposed to clean when i remove the starter 1/2"?

Click to expand...

The spinning is the bendix kicking out.
When you remove the starter you should clean the mounting surfaces on the starter and block for a good electrical path.
While you have the starter out to replace the bendix(if you are so inclined) go ahead and take to to your local rebuilder for a check up.
Even if the starter needs to be overhauled, including a new bendix-----tell her it was cheaper than the tire

i got the starter out enough to clean
the metal up. this engine heater is in
the way for a complete removal .

when i put it back in, she started. no
choke. she ran nice for about 10
seconds. now back to the same.
charger on, hope to get battery tested
tomorrow.

should i clean the carb while im going
through all of this? i have a good flow
out of the drain, but the fact that i
had to tap to release the float makes me
think its funky in there