Back at it again!

I'm gettin' to dang old to be on my knees doing this stuff! :shock:
I got the new valve train components on the rebuilt '52 8N today. Those new springs etc sure made the adjustments on the lifters quite a bit different. I would guess its the springs making the real difference. The old springs were very tired so the new ones would have to make some difference. I'll test with some lacquer thinner in the morning and get the head back on and then touch up the bolts where they got nicked on the paint. It did look real pretty for a short time...lol. :x

I'm thinking pistons #1 and #4 should be close to TDC with the intake valves just about to open. Then turn the flywheel to the "0" degree mark. That should be the place to drop in the side mount dist. Hopefully the old gal will fire up and live to fight another bunch of more years!

The price of the valve parts are reasonable thangs don't last forever its just foolish not to replace them while you have'em in yer hand especially when they are 60 years old..

Live and learn we all have BTDT...

One BIG deal is the adjuster's need to be resurfaced are you will never get the valve's adjusted correct, close maybe but not correct... I would stay on the tight side to help correct for the ware... About a couple tho...

I have about gave up under-dash work I have two bad shoulders and a bad foot I can deal with the shoulders but not the foot...

Thanks, I'm going to run through them one more time in the morning and I'll set them to the lowest value with the feeler gauges. I know what you mean about working under a dash. On my '66 Mustang, I put in one of those Auto Classic Air Conditioners. This kind mounts under the dash on the passenger side and then put the vents in under the dash. Good Grannies. I finally just removed the front seats as the wiring etc was getting very tough and I was getting sort of "Bent Over" looking when I was walking around. Sure is nice to ride around in comfort in the summer!

GW u prob saw my story before--ha istalled all new
guides, valves and springs and had had seats recut
for the new valves--still had a huffing puffing
thruthe exhaust..finally took it to an old tractor
guy who bought them fixed them and sold them allthe
time--he found weak new springs-u could see the
difference in the height of the ones he installed in
comparison to the new ones I had installed==new
springs took care of the problem.runs good now..

(quoted from post at 21:22:32 03/20/15) I'm gettin' to dang old to be on my knees doing this stuff! :shock:
I got the new valve train components on the rebuilt '52 8N today. Those new springs etc sure made the adjustments on the lifters quite a bit different. I would guess its the springs making the real difference. The old springs were very tired so the new ones would have to make some difference. I'll test with some lacquer thinner in the morning and get the head back on and then touch up the bolts where they got nicked on the paint. It did look real pretty for a short time...lol. :x

I'm thinking pistons #1 and #4 should be close to TDC with the intake valves just about to open. Then turn the flywheel to the "0" degree mark. That should be the place to drop in the side mount dist. Hopefully the old gal will fire up and live to fight another bunch of more years!

Click to expand...

eed to re-visit you "timing" plan. Intake is not "just about to open" just after TDC-compression stroke.

My bad, you know what I meant...tdc on compressions stroke

(quoted from post at 20:22:29 03/21/15)
My bad, you know what I meant...tdc on compressions stroke

Click to expand...

aybe you missed my point.
" Intake is not "just about to open" just after.........."

Well, I ain't far from going nuts on this thing! :?

I dropped the sidemount dist in and hung a plastic gas tank over head and hooked up a rubber line (fuel type) to a short piece of metal line I picked up at O'reilly's. pulled the plug on the carb bottom until peeing out and replaced. Now for the big moment!

Started after a bunch of cranking (should have just pulled it around for a bit like ya'll said).. Oops, only running on the first two cylinders. 1-2-4-3 ccw...check! Spark...check (ye-owich...sparkies like me better than the plugs...lol). Pulled the plugs on 3 and 4 stick finger over hole...no compression. ugh! Pulled the valve cover and one of the retainers had popped off on 4. Springs are too dang tight. I put the retainer back, but those springs on 3 and 4 are just not right. Set the gap exactly and the spring still look bound up and rotating a couple of times and keeps changing the settings. Guess I'll drain the water I put in, just to get it running (no antifreeze yet, warm down here). Pull the head tomorrow and see what the heck is the problem with those valves. 'Nuther big problem: No oil pressure showing up. Gauge worked ok when I tore down for a rebuild. I removed the line to let the air out and oil just dribbled out. New pump (line bored) and new gears. I did have to dremel a couple of the teeth that were hitting on the small gear that drops in as they were hitting the side. I removed the big plug up front and squirted about 1/5th of a quart in. Maybe I need to use something a lot thicker (90 wt)? It's always something or 'nuther. [b:b2651ec837] Does the tightest coil on the valve spring go on the bottom or top?[/b:b2651ec837]

I'll tell you one thing, I got one of those Chinese special new dist. and it wasn't right. The big clamp on the bottom with the bolt/nut was not clocked correctly. It had sparkies but would not do something right. I had to put my old dist back in to get it started up.