Only getting spark to spark plugs sometimes.

Bevan

Member
I have a Jubilee that sometimes will send power to
the plugs and sometimes not. I replaced the
wiring loom, and the coil. Do I need to replace
the regulator? Any other suggestions?
 
The regulator has nothing to do with spark at the plugs.

You replaced a coil which I'm 99% sure is ok.

First off, tell us how you know it's got an intermittent spark. Are you using a plug tester w/ an adjustable gap? A plug light?

Have you checked all plugs or just one?

When was the last time you replaced the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap & set the timing?
75 Tips
 

The regulator has nothing to do with power/spark at the plugs. Check the points in the distributor. clean or replace, set gap to 0.025"
 
I put the new loom on and the tractor wouldn't start. Nothing new. She floods easy. That issue was not it this time so I pulled plug 4 and put it on the frame and got spark and when I did she sputtered but didn't fully start. Then I put plug 4 back in and it didn't fire up. I checked with my multi tester to see if power was going to the coil and it was. All connections seemed good. Distributor cap was cleaned. I pulled plug 4 again and turned it over. No spark. I pulled plug three and no spark. I am down to guessing now.
 
While you are at it, check the ignition switch. The get doggy when old. Mine is very erratic and I have to click it back and forth quickly every so often to clean the contacts, and give it a little wiggle as it snaps into the ON position, to settle the contacts in position.

Easy to test with a continuity tester or test light to see if the switch is erratic.
 
I have found on my 8n that the key switch was the cuprit, run a test wire by passing the key switch and see if it does it again, I've not you found the problem, I finally after installing three key switches, replaced it with a toggle, and haven't had any more problems
 
When was the last time you replaced the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap & set the timing?

" Distributor cap was cleaned."

Why? What was in it?

Check power at the coil. If the problem is upstream from the coil (like the ignition switch) it will show on your meter.
75 Tips
 
Pull dizzy cover, check for shaft side play, if acceptable, clean and gap points, check rotor clip and fit, clean inside of cap, hotwire coil, post back
 
dizzy cover pulled. Gap looked ok. Regapped it for giggles at .025. Inside of cap was cleaned. Rotor clip has a good connection. The rotor is a little loose on the Distributor shaft. I rechecked all spark plugs. Spark is more consistent but I am not sure I am getting it all the time to fire the cylinders. New plugs and coil were recently installed. The trek continues.
 
Will report back about the downstream coil power. Switch is working at least the Ohm meter shows it shows no resistance when switched on.
 
Go back.. You said rotor clip is fine but rotor us loose.

Those both need to be snug. Are you using the correct rotor? If so and it fits bad, put a piece of masking tape under it as a shim
 
(quoted from post at 23:40:36 02/07/15) I have found on my 8n that the key switch was the cuprit, run a test wire by passing the key switch and see if it does it again, I've not you found the problem, I finally after installing three key switches, replaced it with a toggle, and haven't had any more problems

What kind of toggle switch did you use? I would like to do the same with my 8n.
 

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