I have a 1948 Ford 8n Tractor with a 6 volt Positive Ground system. I need to replace my light switch. Currently, all the lights are on one switch but my headlights are not working and that side of the switch is dead. I have checked the wiring and can't see any problems with bare wires or anything. The tractor has two original headlights, a tail light and two rear worklights. Is the correct thing to do, to place all the lights on one switch, or should I have a separate light switch for the rear worklights? I seem to have a difficult time dealing with tractor electrical circuits, especially positive ground!! Does anyone have part numbers for the correct switch or switches? Thanks for any advise!
- Thread starter Jim R
- Start date
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
"... especially positive ground!! "
That's not an issue here.
P/N 8N11654B is the OEM style light switch. W/o knowing the wattage of your tail light & work lights, it's hard to say if the switch will handle it.
But.....
The OEM switch has a fuse.
Hook it up, turn everything on & see what happens.
75 Tips
That's not an issue here.
P/N 8N11654B is the OEM style light switch. W/o knowing the wattage of your tail light & work lights, it's hard to say if the switch will handle it.
But.....
The OEM switch has a fuse.
Hook it up, turn everything on & see what happens.
75 Tips
I use one fused switch with multiple positions.
Pull it one click for headlights only, two for tail lights only,
third one for all the lights on. You could do the same thing
using two or more switches.
Your generator most likely will not keep up with all the lights
on at once and you will run your battery dead.
TSC has a two position fused switch that will at least let you
use the headlights (or work lights) separate. $5 in the auto aisle.
Pull it one click for headlights only, two for tail lights only,
third one for all the lights on. You could do the same thing
using two or more switches.
Your generator most likely will not keep up with all the lights
on at once and you will run your battery dead.
TSC has a two position fused switch that will at least let you
use the headlights (or work lights) separate. $5 in the auto aisle.
Jim........yer early 8N has the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy and 11-amp genny with 3rd brush voltage regulator that YOU adjust on the backside of yer genny. The later 5-nipple sidemount has a 20-amp genny on the left side and a square can voltage regulator under the oil pressure gauge.
Would it surprize you that electrons don't care positive (+) or negative (-) ground? and you can have positive AND negative ground at the same time. There some obscure advantages fer positive ground but modern sparkies semi-obliterate that advantage.
As fer lite switches; it is very tempting to mount the lite switch on the left hand corner of the dash to "balance" out the carbie choke knob on the right side. The standard lite switch as sold is NOT waterproof and will kill yer battery. I recommend a "marine-grade" push-pull lite switch which is waterproof. Otherwize you will haffta mount yer tractor grade lite switch under the left-hand corner of the dash along with yer ignition switch.
I would definitely use a separate lite switch fer yer work lites. ........HTH, electrical Dell
Would it surprize you that electrons don't care positive (+) or negative (-) ground? and you can have positive AND negative ground at the same time. There some obscure advantages fer positive ground but modern sparkies semi-obliterate that advantage.
As fer lite switches; it is very tempting to mount the lite switch on the left hand corner of the dash to "balance" out the carbie choke knob on the right side. The standard lite switch as sold is NOT waterproof and will kill yer battery. I recommend a "marine-grade" push-pull lite switch which is waterproof. Otherwize you will haffta mount yer tractor grade lite switch under the left-hand corner of the dash along with yer ignition switch.
I would definitely use a separate lite switch fer yer work lites. ........HTH, electrical Dell
Tim Daley(MI)
Member
Hi Jim-
Here's a link to nnalert and the DC one they sell. I have had this one on my early '48 8N since I restored it in 2003 and still works fine. I had to replace the original AutoLite voltage regulator too with the modern type and that will have a plate on which the light switch will mount under the dash on the RIGHT side.
[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
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Ford Tractor Light Switch
Here's a link to nnalert and the DC one they sell. I have had this one on my early '48 8N since I restored it in 2003 and still works fine. I had to replace the original AutoLite voltage regulator too with the modern type and that will have a plate on which the light switch will mount under the dash on the RIGHT side.
[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>
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Ford Tractor Light Switch
BlackThumbHomesteader
Member
If you aren't keeping your system in original configuration I'd suggest going with the addition of a headlight relay. You'll have to add in some more wiring but you'll see less of a voltage drop at the battery when the lights are running and that means less of a drop everywhere else in the system.
Now on an original 6v setup I'm not certain the advantage is there, anyone else care to chime in on that?
I'm just curious, Steiner tractor lists two light switches for the 8n Ford. One for the early 8n and one for after 1949 model year. What is the difference? My 8n is a 1948 but it has, at some time, been re-wired. Which switch should I use?? Thanks again for your help and responses!!
Del Huebner
Member
Here is the correct light switch for a 48 8N.
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