Condenser For Round Coil From Square Can Coil

KCTractors

Member
Location
Central Wi
I'm thinking about going to the round can coil from the square can. I seen one way was to put the condenser on the round can mount. My question is where do you run the condenser wire to with this way of doing it.
Another question is, if you take the distributor cap and drill a hole in the terminal ( on the cap)that would go to the round can coil. If the caps needs replacing you would have to drill a hole in the new cap again. Is there a better way to do this so if I sold the tractor, the next buyer would not have that problem.
 
KC, jmor recently reposted photos of how I have done modern coil conversions.

It's NOT rocket surgery.

On the other hand, when operated within original parameters, the original coils do just fine,

Replacement coils from "The Land of Almost Right", not so much.

IMHO, do what you choose and don't worry about how the next owner will deal with it!
 
KC........you do know the squarecan coil condenser is NOT electrically equivalent of the roundcan coil condenser, don't you? And iff'n the condenser don't match the coil, you will be replacing POINTS toot-sweet. As to yer specific question, one side of the condenser is tab mounted to ground just like the points and the insulated wire goes to the HIGH side of the points which is also connected to the coil.

You do know the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy is designed to be removed from the engine and have the points (0.015") and condenser replaced on the kitchen table, don't you? Since the 4-nipple dizzy is mounted by 2-bolt off-set drive scheme, you can NOT install outta time. Just finger start the 2-bolts and then install the rotor. Rotate the rotor until the offset TANG fits into the OFF-SET drive slot of the camshaft. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple the capple. Simple, eh? .......respectfully, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Pigtail if your replacement condenser to the outgoing primary if the coil, ground the condenser case. That wire normally goes thru feedthru insulator on a side mount fizzy and hits the moving side of the points.

Unless doing an odd blankoff there I some too for the condenser in the front dizzy already.

The external method was a way to get a junk mag to run like a dizzy, just using its points and an external coil, condenser and extra wireing
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:46 03/05/15) Pigtail if your replacement condenser to the outgoing primary if the coil, ground the condenser case. That wire normally goes thru feedthru insulator on a side mount fizzy and hits the moving side of the points.

Unless doing an odd blankoff there I some too for the condenser in the front dizzy already.

The external method was a way to get a junk mag to run like a dizzy, just using its points and an external coil, condenser and extra wireing

Which hand you using to type?:shock: :shock: :shock:
 
thumbs, on a windows phone :)

Thje bone that broke is the farthest right one on the outside of my right hand. broke it, then rebroke it. its about 80% now.
 
(quoted from post at 10:47:48 03/05/15) thumbs, on a windows phone :)

Thje bone that broke is the farthest right one on the outside of my right hand. broke it, then rebroke it. its about 80% now.


You remind me of a teacher I had 40 years ago.

Back than we had the crap kicked of us by our teachers. But just before she did it she would point her finger at you to point you out of the class. Her right hand pointer finger was broken and curved 90 degrees to the right. Natural tendency was to look over to your left when she pointed at you.

I think my hair unnaturally grew 6 inches longer that year.
 
Is there a better way to do this so if I sold the tractor, the next buyer would not have that problem.

I have converted all of my n's to 12v but I have kept all of the 6v parts and been careful as to not making the process irreversible .
You can gut a bad square coil or build a flat plate to cap the top of the distributor to ease a future cap replacement , or drill / tap two caps and have a spare .
If the next owner can't drill a new cap , then maybe he doesn't need an N ?
 

In the planning stage of replicating the face of a front mount coil using a polyurethane resin mold.

Going to make an imprint of the coil face into a clay mold and than pour liquid resin into the mold to reproduce the coil face.

A little drilling and tapping and maybe a mold of the top end of a spark plug, glue it together add some brass connection points and I should have a working cap to replace the coil on a front mount.
 
(quoted from post at 11:16:44 03/05/15)
In the planning stage of replicating the face of a front mount coil using a polyurethane resin mold.

Going to make an imprint of the coil face into a clay mold and than pour liquid resin into the mold to reproduce the coil face.

A little drilling and tapping and maybe a mold of the top end of a spark plug, glue it together add some brass connection points and I should have a working cap to replace the coil on a front mount.

Maybe you could make a round hole impression on top of your new bsae for the coil to set in . Make a hundred while your at it :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:03 03/05/15)
(quoted from post at 11:16:44 03/05/15)
In the planning stage of replicating the face of a front mount coil using a polyurethane resin mold.

Going to make an imprint of the coil face into a clay mold and than pour liquid resin into the mold to reproduce the coil face.

A little drilling and tapping and maybe a mold of the top end of a spark plug, glue it together add some brass connection points and I should have a working cap to replace the coil on a front mount.

Maybe you could make a round hole impression on top of your new bsae for the coil to set in . Make a hundred while your at it :wink:

Hhmm...Good idea. Need to see how much space I have to work with. Possible idea is to mount it upside down as a direct connect
 

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