Does my cam follower pin look ok?

Hey folks,

I've had my 8N for a couple years now. The hydraulics have "worked" all along, but they always bleed off after about 10 minutes and the lift has never gone as high as it should.

I did some googleresearch and am in the process of replacing the lift cylinder and piston (the old cylinder was scored).

Before I put it back together, I thought I'd see if this cam follower pin looks ok. It's my 1st N tractor, and I figure someone here can tell me if it looks worn.

Now is definitely a good time to replace it. The grass isn't growing and the tractor is already apart.

Here's my pin:



Thanks for the help,
Clem
 
It is worn and it looks like someone in the past has turned it over. It should be round. Replace it. and while you are there, clean all the gunk out.
 
Absolutely not. A very small amount of wear on the cam follower pin translates into a considerable amount of motion at the lift arm ends.

Replace it.

Dean
 
It is worn and it looks like someone in the past has turned it over.

There is still the 90 degree option , just kidding .

I won't be back to the shop until Friday , but I though the OEM pins were .309 which is what Ford v8 camshafts used 60 - 80's I will mic some used pins then.
The replacements are 5/16's or .3125 by 7/8 long
A little longer on the length would not be a bad thing also .
 
Clem........would you believe a shot of brake cleaner would dissolve all the gunk so us that need peepers (glasses) could tell how badly the cam follower is worn? You must be very proud of the gunk. BTW, the cam follower pin should be ROUND 'sedda flat sided. ........respectfully, Dell
 
(quoted from post at 14:28:02 03/04/15)
It is worn and it looks like someone in the past has turned it over.

There is still the 90 degree option , just kidding .

I won't be back to the shop until Friday , but I though the OEM pins were .309 which is what Ford v8 camshafts used 60 - 80's I will mic some used pins then.
The replacements are 5/16's or .3125 by 7/8 long
A little longer on the length would not be a bad thing also .
.309 is correct pin size, Ken, but with a big enough hammer, you can force a bigger pin in the hole.
 

Now is a good time to adjust the linkage and replace that worn cam pin
I make a jig for adjusting the 8N lift with instructions and new cam pin.

See my link below
Zane
ZANES LIFT STUFF
 
0.309 is correct pin size, Ken, but with a big enough hammer, you can force a bigger pin in the hole.
Do you just keep getting the next size hammer until it finally goes in ? LOL

I don't remember reading about anyone breaking the cast iron part or drilling the hole bigger . I guess an extra .003 interface is OK . I have only changed a few with .309 and they were tight .
 
(quoted from post at 18:35:33 03/04/15)
0.309 is correct pin size, Ken, but with a big enough hammer, you can force a bigger pin in the hole.
Do you just keep getting the next size hammer until it finally goes in ? LOL

I don't remember reading about anyone breaking the cast iron part or drilling the hole bigger . I guess an extra .003 interface is OK . I have only changed a few with .309 and they were tight .
too have only used the 0.309 and not 5/16, but there are many instances on the forums using 5/16. That was tongue in cheek with the bigger hammer. Who knows maybe there is a file or grinder involved?
 
I too have only used the 0.309 and not 5/16, but there are many instances on the forums using 5/16. That was tongue in cheek with the bigger hammer. Who knows maybe there is a file or grinder involved?

FYI anyone reading this old post ,

I found one supplier for .309 dowel pin stock .

M7 High Speed Steel
Hardened and Tempered to R/c 62-63
Centerless Ground to a Tolerance of +.0005/-0000

A 6" long .309 diameter pin is $10 each with a $5.25 postage the Lady said .

The price break was after 25 pieces , but you could make 150 pins , LOL .

I'll get one piece and make me a few 8N pins and some camshaft pins . I'll clean the ends of the cut offs in the lathe or drill press and post the results in a few weeks .

http://dixiepins.com/dixie-pins/


DIXIE PINS
Production Tools for Industrial Consumers
Call Toll Free 800 422 2616
Local Calls 502 863 2340
Fax 502 863 6904

************************************

I mic'ed a pin and the hole it came out of and it looked like a .002 interface ( roughly / not a fact ) I still think the bigger hammer would be easier .

*************************************

Ebay had cam dowel pins for small block or big block ford 's for $9.99 w/ free shipping , if someone wanted just one .
 
I did find a new pin at the local New Holland Dealer.

I went out to the barn (12 miles from bed) the other night to disassemble the linkage so I could replace the pin. But it was too darn cold. Warmer weather is arriving, so I should be able to replace it soon.

Can't say I'm "proud" of the gunk. But whatever. It'll clean up fine.
 

i WOULD BET THAT BOTH OF MINE LOOK ABOUT As GUNKY! Next time in they will get cleaned. It has been a few years on each of them.
 
As I attempt to disassemble the linkage so I can remove and replace the cam follower pin, I have run into a couple things I thought I'd ask about here.

First off...is this linkage supposed to be bent like this, or should it be straight? This is looking at the top cover from below. The rod associated with Draft Control, from what I've inferred.



If I need to repair or replace, I'll do it.

next question to follow...thanks!
 
Next question.

As I try to disassemble the linkage, I'm having a hard time trying to get the link with the cam follower pin out. I believe I need to remove the control lever hub, but before I break something, I wanted to ask. Mine's stuck on there pretty good. I've got it soaking in some BPlaster now. But does it just slide off? Or is there some trick to it? Or am I on the wrong track altogether?

I've removed the nut and washers as seen here. Is the hub for the lever just supposed to come off the shaft (with some persuasion, perhaps)?

 
Its a smooth shaft with a keyway in it, should have a half moon key in the shaft.

I took mine apart with my trusty Tie-Rod Forks, just tap them a bit then switch sides and repeat until you get it all the way down then the hub pops off.

Careful though, I think the hub is made from cast aluminum, so only one or two taps at a time from each side.
 
It should come straight off, it does have a half moon key. keep doing what you are doing with the PB blaster, Don't get in a hurry.
 
Thanks on all accounts.

I'll see if I can straighten or replace the link.

On the other linkage I'm trying to disassemble. I'll keep being patient. Can I persuade a bit by pushing on the shaft with a bras punch toward the inboard side? Oh...I bet not because the key won't allow movement in the inboard direction.

Thanks,
Clem
 
Anybody know what the proper name of that linkage is? The one that is part of the draft control.

I've looked on Yesterday's Tractors and don't see it listed new.
 
I did manage to get the control quadrant hub off today...thanks for the help. The cam follower pin has been replaced. Now I just need to fix the draft control linkage part and hopefully I'll be ready to put it back together and do some adjusting.
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:15 03/08/15) I did manage to get the control quadrant hub off today...thanks for the help. The cam follower pin has been replaced. Now I just need to fix the draft control linkage part and hopefully I'll be ready to put it back together and do some adjusting.
ook on John Smiths site he has some used parts.
http://www.oldfordtractors.com/hydfs.htm


http://www.oldfordtractors.com/hydfs.htm
 

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