Broken Idle Jet

As I stated in my PTO Parts thread, I broke the idle jet in my carburetor. I have gathered that the carb is a TSX 241A.

I thought I was using a good screw driver, but that is apparently not the case. I have since learned about hollow ground screw drivers and will be ordering a set.

I soaked the jet in PB Blaster last night and again this morning before I left for work. I plan on hitting it again tomorrow and then attempting to remove with a left hand drill bit. Once I get it out I want to chase the threads with tap.

So, with that being said, what is the thread size for the jet?

I have the comprehensive rebuild kit, so I do have a new jet to replace it with. After this experience, I think I will just leave the other jets alone and just clean them out with some old guitar strings I acquired from a coworker.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 
I soaked the jet in PB Blaster last night and again this morning before I left for work. I plan on hitting it again tomorrow and then attempting to remove with a left hand drill bit. Once I get it out I want to chase the threads with tap.

You might have some luck using a hand help propane torch to heat the broken jet , let cool , spray , heat , repeat to break the bond .
 
The threads are 10-32. If you have a very small tipped torch,
you can try heating the jet directly and letting it cool a couple
of times, then using a left handed drill bit see if it will turn out.

If you would like a hand with it email me before you do anything
that might damage the cast. I'd be glad to try to help save it.
 
(quoted from post at 19:42:33 02/20/15) The threads are 10-32. If you have a very small tipped torch,
you can try heating the jet directly and letting it cool a couple
of times, then using a left handed drill bit see if it will turn out.

If you would like a hand with it email me before you do anything
that might damage the cast. I'd be glad to try to help save it.

I'm all ears for any advice you can provide. I'm fine with email or just posting it here. I didn't find much about a broken idle jet for these carbs when I did a search.
 
(quoted from post at 22:45:09 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 19:42:33 02/20/15) The threads are 10-32. If you have a very small tipped torch,
you can try heating the jet directly and letting it cool a couple
of times, then using a left handed drill bit see if it will turn out.

If you would like a hand with it email me before you do anything
that might damage the cast. I'd be glad to try to help save it.

I'm all ears for any advice you can provide. I'm fine with email or just posting it here. I didn't find much about a broken idle jet for these carbs when I did a search.
I would try like Ken and I suggested, but if the drill is just drilling
a hole instead of turning the jet out, stop there. You can drill them
out, clean and chase the threads, but the drill has to be true.
E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
 
Skeeter........the spring loaded M/S 241 idlemix jet is BRASS ...but... since it is SOLID, trying to center drill it takes a very steady machine shop set-up. The clearance drill fer 10-32 is 3/16. So yer really need sumptin like 1/8. (and steady hand) ...howsomevers... before you gitt too rambunctious, try BOILING yer carb top in HOT WATER. (seriously) The difference in co-efficient of expansion shud un-lock yer frozen brass idlemix screw. And YES, hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers is good fer brass carbie screws ...but... didja know you can make yer own outta regular "wedge" screwdrivers by simply holding the side of the wedge to a 6"-grindstone. Have a cup of cold water to quench the HOT metal so you don't loose the temper. Simple, eh? .......HTH, the boiled Dell
 
(quoted from post at 20:52:04 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 22:45:09 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 19:42:33 02/20/15) The threads are 10-32. If you have a very small tipped torch,
you can try heating the jet directly and letting it cool a couple
of times, then using a left handed drill bit see if it will turn out.

If you would like a hand with it email me before you do anything
that might damage the cast. I'd be glad to try to help save it.

I'm all ears for any advice you can provide. I'm fine with email or just posting it here. I didn't find much about a broken idle jet for these carbs when I did a search.
I would try like Ken and I suggested, but if the drill is just drilling
a hole instead of turning the jet out, stop there. You can drill them
out, clean and chase the threads, but the drill has to be true.
E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
b:8b4f3d0580][i:8b4f3d0580]

E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
Not to mention that if you use an easy-out, and do not keep the bit straight while drilling,....the bit will bind up and break off inside of the jet passage, and you will never get the broken bit out...rendering the carb top, or bottom useless!!!

GB :!: [/i:8b4f3d0580][/b:8b4f3d0580]
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:30 02/21/15)
(quoted from post at 20:52:04 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 22:45:09 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 19:42:33 02/20/15) The threads are 10-32. If you have a very small tipped torch,
you can try heating the jet directly and letting it cool a couple
of times, then using a left handed drill bit see if it will turn out.

If you would like a hand with it email me before you do anything
that might damage the cast. I'd be glad to try to help save it.

I'm all ears for any advice you can provide. I'm fine with email or just posting it here. I didn't find much about a broken idle jet for these carbs when I did a search.
I would try like Ken and I suggested, but if the drill is just drilling
a hole instead of turning the jet out, stop there. You can drill them
out, clean and chase the threads, but the drill has to be true.
E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
b:9665cd99a0][i:9665cd99a0]

E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
Not to mention that if you use an easy-out, and do not keep the bit straight while drilling,....the bit will bind up and break off inside of the jet passage, and you will never get the broken bit out...rendering the carb top, or bottom useless!!!

GB :!: [/i:9665cd99a0][/b:9665cd99a0]
I had a mechanic on my crew that broke a tap off in a 100,000 dollar rotor blade, it took me me 5 hours to get it out, with him worring about his job the whole time.
 
(quoted from post at 23:47:30 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 20:52:04 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 22:45:09 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 19:42:33 02/20/15) The threads are 10-32. If you have a very small tipped torch,
you can try heating the jet directly and letting it cool a couple
of times, then using a left handed drill bit see if it will turn out.

If you would like a hand with it email me before you do anything
that might damage the cast. I'd be glad to try to help save it.

I'm all ears for any advice you can provide. I'm fine with email or just posting it here. I didn't find much about a broken idle jet for these carbs when I did a search.
I would try like Ken and I suggested, but if the drill is just drilling
a hole instead of turning the jet out, stop there. You can drill them
out, clean and chase the threads, but the drill has to be true.
E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
b:c8c437c3d9][i:c8c437c3d9]

E-Z outs/extractors rarely work. They expand the brass too much.
Not to mention that if you use an easy-out, and do not keep the bit straight while drilling,....the bit will bind up and break off inside of the jet passage, and you will never get the broken bit out...rendering the carb top, or bottom useless!!!

GB :!: [/i:c8c437c3d9][/b:c8c437c3d9]
Sounds like the voice of experience speaking to me!
 
"100,000 dollar rotor blade"

What were you working on?
Extractors and taps are hard, but brittle. Not very forgiving.
 
I rebuilt my first TSX 241 a few weeks back. Figured I would give it a shot since I rebuilt Hollys and Rochester's in the past.
And not to mention I had Royse's guidence.

I needed to get my extractors out since all three Jets were wedged in there and I could not get them out even after soaking in mineral spirits and ATF for about four days.

My extractor preference is the Straight flute type. They place a lot less wedge pressure on the sides of the bolt being extracted. The downfall is that you have to drill a precise hole in order to get the extractor to wedge in just right.
 
"After this experience, I think I will just leave
the other jets alone and just clean them out with
some old guitar strings I acquired from a
coworker. "

Agree. I have 12 old Ford tractors. I have cleaned
and "rebuilt" the carbs in all of them. I have
never attempted to remove any of the jets. Just my
experience.
 
If the jet is brass in a cast iron carb, just heat it with oxy- ace. until the flame shows green. Let it cool & it will come out easy.
 
(quoted from post at 13:37:10 02/21/15) "100,000 dollar rotor blade"

What were you working on?
Extractors and taps are hard, but brittle. Not very forgiving.

Large heavy lift helicopter, what saved me was that it was brittle. I took it out chip by chip by breaking it up with a punch.
 
Well I got the broken jet out. I heated it with my propane torch and backed it out with a left hand drill bit. Easy peasy.

Thanks for all the help yall.
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:39 02/21/15) Love it when plan comes together!
Glad you got it out with no damage. :)

Me too! I ran a tap in it just to check and the threads were good to go.

I did the recommended bench adjustments and reinstalled the carb. I also replaced the settlement bowl and the screen on the carb inlet.

Now I just need to square away the wiring. I also need to see why my brand new settlement bowl is leaking.

Then I should be able to start her up and do the final carb adjustments.
 

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