Who's doing high-quality Marvel-Shebler carb rebuilds now?

Pardon me for being out of touch, but I've forgotten the name of the forum member or members who are still doing really nice and proper Marvel-Shebler carb rebuilds. Mine has a worn throttle shaft and probably other defects. Can anybody tell me whom to contact? Thanks!
 
"He does great work.....Joan just says .....not enough!!...LOL"

Hard to get good help now days! :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:26 02/15/15) "He does great work.....Joan just says .....not enough!!...LOL"

Hard to get good help now days! :lol:

Royse for which is it hard to get good help for? the "Honey do list" or "the rebuilding of carbs"
 
(quoted from post at 16:02:48 02/15/15)
(quoted from post at 15:59:26 02/15/15) "He does great work.....Joan just says .....not enough!!...LOL"

Hard to get good help now days! :lol:

Royse for which is it hard to get good help for? the "Honey do list" or "the rebuilding of carbs"
Both! Honey do list today included a new thermostat in a Chevy
Impala with a 3400. Man I hate those engines! They get great gas
mileage and they're very quite, but they suck to work on.
Not to mention that little intake manifold problem.
Thermostat on a 3800 would take me 1/3 the time or less. :evil:
 
I don't intend to take anything away from Royse or GB but the M/S N-Series carbs are fairly easy to rebuild. Get the complete kit, not the lower priced partial kit, but the complete rebuild kit. They come with instructions and there are lots of places to get pictorials and instructions. The 'other' Ford Tractor N-Series site has some for free download.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim Daley(MI)
</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
TPD9N100.jpg
</td><td>
TPD8N100.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 
I've already tried rebuilding it myself, but still have air leaks and can't adjust the idle properly. I think the top and body of the carb may need to be milled smooth, and the throttle shaft is definitely worn and needs to be re-sized because it wiggles noticeably. I'm going to let Royse handle those issues, since I am not set up to do it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:54:07 02/16/15) I don't intend to take anything away from Royse or GB but the M/S N-Series carbs are fairly easy to rebuild. Get the complete kit, not the lower priced partial kit, but the complete rebuild kit. They come with instructions and there are lots of places to get pictorials and instructions. The 'other' Ford Tractor N-Series site has some for free download.

Tim Daley(MI)

Was about to say the same but Tim says it better. I had never even had a carb open before I did the ones on my '41 9N and '48 8N. Just go slow and don't force things. Lots of brass that can shear off if you get too rough with it. Soak and lubricate liberally. It's actually kinda' fun to do. Royce will do a good job for you too.
 
(quoted from post at 16:21:54 02/16/15) I've already tried rebuilding it myself, but still have air leaks and can't adjust the idle properly. I think the top and body of the carb may need to be milled smooth, and the throttle shaft is definitely worn and needs to be re-sized because it wiggles noticeably. I'm going to let Royse handle those issues, since I am not set up to do it.

Did you replace the throttle shaft and it's still loose? The complete kit has a new one in it and the seals you need. Both of mine had air leaks at the shaft and the kit fixed it up just fine.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:15 02/16/15)
(quoted from post at 13:54:07 02/16/15) I don't intend to take anything away from Royse or GB but the M/S N-Series carbs are fairly easy to rebuild. Get the complete kit, not the lower priced partial kit, but the complete rebuild kit. They come with instructions and there are lots of places to get pictorials and instructions. The 'other' Ford Tractor N-Series site has some for free download.

Tim Daley(MI)

Was about to say the same but Tim says it better. I had never even had a carb open before I did the ones on my '41 9N and '48 8N. Just go slow and don't force things. Lots of brass that can shear off if you get too rough with it. Soak and lubricate liberally. It's actually kinda' fun to do. Royce will do a good job for you too.

Rule #1 - Use a good fitting screwdriver to remove brass jets . A sloppy fitting screwdriver can round the slot and make it harder to remove a jet that was going to fight you to begin with .

Rule #2 - Spraying carb cleaner in one hole may exit from another hole which is usually pointed at your face . Did you know a normal dry sinus cavity still has LOTS of mucus that comes out when carb cleaner is applied to the eyes ??? Don't ask me how I know - He He .

Now is a good time to install a valve in place of the drain plug - 1/8" NPT ( 1/8" standard pipe )
 
(quoted from post at 08:02:16 02/15/15) Pardon me for being out of touch, but I've forgotten the name of the forum member or members who are still doing really nice and proper Marvel-Shebler carb rebuilds. Mine has a worn throttle shaft and probably other defects. Can anybody tell me whom to contact? Thanks!
I agree Roysce. Got mine sitting in the box waiting for engine rebuild. He does great work. :D
 
Tim, I agree with your selection of the full carb kit.
There's just too much left out of the "basic" kit.

For folks that want to do their own at home though, those
instructions in the kit basically just show where the parts
go and at what height to set the float.

There's more to it than just replacing the parts.
It's not rocket science, that's for sure, but there is more to
properly cleaning a carb than just dunking it in a bucket and
spraying it out with carb cleaner.

There are instructions out there, including videos. The video
done by the lady on YouTube misses a lot. I'd avoid that one
other than for a basic idea of how to get it apart. Pay no
attention to which way she turns things BTW. LOL
If one could find instructions by GB in MT or JMOR they'd be
golden, or if someone wants to do their own I would be happy
to help them via email and/or phone.

Then sometimes there's a rust or corrosion challenge just
to get the old parts out! This one runs great now.
It's on one of my Farmall BN's at the moment.

mvphoto16427.jpg


mvphoto16428.jpg


mvphoto16429.jpg


mvphoto16431.jpg


mvphoto16430.jpg
 
Yep, didn't want to get too technical but since you mentioned it...I have rebuilt carbs exactly like the one shown in your before/after pictures. I currently am soaking two M/S carbs right now -a TSX33 and a TSX241. The carb cleaner that is sold today is junk. The EPA has deemed that it be 'watered' down. Brake cleaner will work. I take a 'basket case' like in your before photos, put in an empty coffee can, fill with white vinegar, and let soak for months. Then I rinse off the crud and scrub the loose grease and dirt off, then put in another coffee can and fill with a combo of mineral spirits and either diesel fuel or ATF. let soak for at least a few weeks before trying to get it on the bench. The next step is to disassemble completely and start cleaning more thoroughly. I do not sand blast nor use any drills to open orifices. I keep old broken guitar strings around to use for cleaning those passages. The white vinegar will clean any rusted part of dirt and rust and is safer than having a can of volatile carb cleaner around. I always use this as my first step. It works but may be a slow process. I'm currently making a chemical de-ruster with a 12 volt battery charger I have lying around, lye, and tons of used mower blades from my Woods 660. I'll try it to see if the process is faster and more cost effective.


[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
TPD9N100.jpg
</td><td>
TPD8N100.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 
Tim I have been removing rust via electrolysis for years.

For a bench top version use a low setting on your battery charger or a trickle charger if you have.
Better off using baking soda 2 tablespoons to a gallon of water will do ya. You don't need lye.

First time I did this was about 15 or more years back. I used professional strength drain cleaner. The kind you find at the big box store i a one gallon jug all wrapped up in a heavy duty plastic bag. Cleaned off a bunch of exhaust headers of my Pontiac's. It was a PITA to stick your hands in the water cause of the acid. Use baking soda instead.
 
Rule #1 - Use a good fitting screwdriver to remove brass jets . A sloppy fitting screwdriver can round the slot and make it harder to remove a jet that was going to fight you to begin with .
Gary posted a source for a good screwdriver once but I can't remember where. Any idears?
 
(quoted from post at 10:32:43 02/18/15)
(quoted from post at 08:06:02 02/15/15) That would be me Bill. My email is open.
ill I am looking to have you do one for me, how do I get a hold of you, thanks Chris..


Braxmier I think you mean Royse.
Bill is another member who originated this thread.
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:46 02/18/15)
Rule #1 - Use a good fitting screwdriver to remove brass jets . A sloppy fitting screwdriver can round the slot and make it harder to remove a jet that was going to fight you to begin with .
Gary posted a source for a good screwdriver once but I can't remember where. Any idears?

Well I never saw what his recommendation was, but the best screw driver I ever had, is a Klein
I've used that cabinet-Tip (round Shank) 13
for many long years -- just about time to get another exactly like it.
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/drivers/cushion-grip-screwdrivers

But of course you pick the best fit for the jet, snug in the slot and as wide as the jet.
 
Jon, I don't know where Gary got his, but I like to use hollow
ground gunsmithing screwdrivers. The explanation of why they're
better [b:cccab3db40]here[/b:cccab3db40] on Forster's page is far better than I could explain it,
and they have a dealer locator page. Note that the blades are
also the same width/diameter top to bottom so they fit in the holes
without dragging on the sides like screwdrivers with a V or wedge.
Particularly important for the holes that are threaded above
the jet you are trying to remove.

[b:cccab3db40]Brownell's[/b:cccab3db40] also sells great screwdrivers, plus hollow ground bits.

Be prepared for sticker shock with either one if you normally
buy screwdrivers at Harbor Freight though! :)
 
Be prepared for sticker shock with either one if you normally buy screwdrivers at Harbor Freight though! :)
I wouldn't have a problem with that price since I should only need 1 or 2 &amp; not the entire set.
Which one's fit the jets though?
 
But of course you pick the best fit for the jet, snug in the slot and as wide as the jet.
There's an electrical supply close by &amp; they should carry Klein. I could just carry a carb by there &amp; fit it for the right screwdriver.
 
(quoted from post at 21:37:43 02/20/15)
Be prepared for sticker shock with either one if you normally buy screwdrivers at Harbor Freight though! :)
I wouldn't have a problem with that price since I should only need 1 or 2 &amp; not the entire set.
Which one's fit the jets though?
I don't remember off the top of my head Jon, but I'll look.
Obviously the jets are different sizes, I just grab the one out of
my set that fits the jet I am trying to remove at the time.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top