Crappy parts

cowdog

Member
Beware. I ordered an Oil Pump rebuild kit from a reputable parts dealer we all know about. I received it today. The parts were more wore out than the ones I am replacing. The main drive gear was new but the drive shaft that runs into the pump body had baked on oil like we have all seen when we take an engine apart.

I used a starret micrometer on it all. Even the gears are smaller. The main shaft was .003 smaller than the one I am replacing. !@#$%$#)(*&. grrr!!!! What a bunch of B>S>
 
These were supposed to be new parts?
If so I would make a phone call and send them back.
 
Boy Howdy they are going to get them back, and a few words too. Yes they were supposed to be "New" parts.
 
(quoted from post at 20:31:59 02/19/15) Beware. I ordered an Oil Pump rebuild kit from a reputable parts dealer we all know about. I received it today. The parts were more wore out than the ones I am replacing. The main drive gear was new but the drive shaft that runs into the pump body had baked on oil like we have all seen when we take an engine apart.

I used a starret micrometer on it all. Even the gears are smaller. The main shaft was .003 smaller than the one I am replacing. !@#$%$#)(*&. grrr!!!! What a bunch of B>S>

That seems to be the "finish" on all of them.

TOH
 
Yeah, I could accept that as an excuse. However, If after installing the bushing and reaming to .5625. This shaft would already have .0035 clearance. Besides that, their gears give another .001 clearance to the pump body than the ones I am taking out.
 
(quoted from post at 21:09:45 02/19/15) Yeah, I could accept that as an excuse. However, If after installing the bushing and reaming to .5625. This shaft would already have .0035 clearance. Besides that, their gears give another .001 clearance to the pump body than the ones I am taking out.

The manual says the running clearance on a new shaft and bushing should be .0015 - .0029

TOH
 

Half the problems people have with failed pump rebuilds can be attributed to the poor quality tooth finish and the sizes of the gears that come in the kits. They're REALLY bad compared to original Ford parts. A gear pump relies on the fit between the gears to be an effective pump. Most of the other half of the problems can be attributed to the bushing being reamed off center or out of perpendicular.
 
well, if your book says that I believe you. My book say .0005-.0015 gearshaft to bushing . renew drive shaft if worn to less than .560 These parts exceed both of these parameters and they supposedly are brand new. I don't think so. I don't have a scanner at home to reprint it here. but it is on page 37 of FO-4 . I am sure some of you know it better than me. But I can read and I can run a micrometer and I recognize when someone is trying to " put the britches " to me with this junk.
 
Not sure they would be considered reputable, if they are selling inferior products. Might be same vendor that I purchased a radiator from several years back. I was really disappointed in a radiator, and some rubber parts that rotted off the first year. I ended up repairing my oem radiator, and would have called the parts dealer asking for a refund of not only the radiator, but shipping back as well except I ended up damaging the radiator in a futile attempt to make it fit my tractor. That left a bad taste, and I have not purchased from them again. I would not have been nearly as upset had I not spoken over the phone specifically asking about the quality, and was assured the radiator fit correctly, and I paid a higher price than the china specials on ebay.
 
Not surprising.

I've experienced similar (and worse) issues with aftermarket hydraulic pump parts, etc.

I avoid aftermarket parts if at all possible.

Dean
 
Since you said they looked used maybe they were. I always open autoparts boxes on the counter before I leave the store. Someone may have returned an old part in the new box. Could be an honest mistake by the vendor.
 
(quoted from post at 07:45:25 02/20/15) Since you said they looked used maybe they were. I always open autoparts boxes on the counter before I leave the store. Someone may have returned an old part in the new box. Could be an honest mistake by the vendor.

That's what I thought the first time I saw one. But I have purchased three kits recently - still in the plastic bag and inside an unopened box and the aluminum gear assemblies all looked like that. It is some sort of coating that is part of the manufacturing process. Quite possibly dried cutting oil residue from the gear hobbing process. I think I still have one in the shop and I'll post a picture later if I get a chance.

TOH
 
It doesn't matter if they are "New" parts and all the crap on em is dried cutting oil etc. The bottom lime is why install parts that exceed or are currently at the maximum wear tolerances suugested. Other than the bushing, the rest of these parts are worse than my used ones. No kidding , I don't make this stuff up. That makes the deal even more frustrating.
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:06 02/20/15) It doesn't matter if they are "New" parts and all the crap on em is dried cutting oil etc. The bottom lime is why install parts that exceed or are currently at the maximum wear tolerances suugested. Other than the bushing, the rest of these parts are worse than my used ones. No kidding , I don't make this stuff up. That makes the deal even more frustrating.

My point was you have almost surely not been sold used parts by a disreputable dealer.

The simple fact is there is zero chance that a big time manufacturer is going to start making "high quality" N-series parts - no profit in it. It is a niche market supplied by low budget producers that survive on a shoestring. Hand fit the best of what you have in front of you or buy a couple more kits and see if you can find a better fit.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 11:14:52 02/20/15)
Dan I know your work...so when you gonna tool-up! :oops:

To make parts you you need detailed specifications. I have always wondered where the folks that make aftermarket parts get theirispecifications. Reverse engineering isn't the most precise way to do that and may have a lot to do with the problems with aftermarket parts....

TOH
 

As you said...they probably only had access to some used parts. Took an average measurement and assumed the rest.

Not much R and D since the dividends will be very low as the demand is low and build cost need to be kept at a minimum.

And now we have to deal with what we have.
Hope I don't have to deal with the pump any time soon.
 
(quoted from post at 04:31:59 02/20/15) Beware. I ordered an Oil Pump rebuild kit from a reputable parts dealer we all know about. I received it today. The parts were more wore out than the ones I am replacing. The main drive gear was new but the drive shaft that runs into the pump body had baked on oil like we have all seen when we take an engine apart.

I used a starret micrometer on it all. Even the gears are smaller. The main shaft was .003 smaller than the one I am replacing. !@#$%$#)(*&. grrr!!!! What a bunch of B>S>

If its who I think it is they will do what it takes to make you happy...

I have a NEW OP set its been setting on the self for a few years,,,I opened it up and said to myself someone sent back a used set and I got stuck with it... :cry: No problem I will give it to my TISCO rep BUT I have not seen a TISCO rep in years... SOOOO after reading your post I opened it back up its new and about leaked all the black nasty/trashy oil off the box absorbed it...

SO I opened another new OP box its nice and clean but the shaft and gears are starting to rust.... It needs some oil on it....

Sometimes the only way parts places know of these issues is from feedback... I also have a defective distributor shaft and points that are made wrong,,, I learned about these issues here and just learned I have a OP set I can sell once I clean it up....
 
(quoted from post at 07:50:12 02/20/15)
(quoted from post at 09:36:06 02/20/15) It doesn't matter if they are "New" parts and all the crap on em is dried cutting oil etc. The bottom lime is why install parts that exceed or are currently at the maximum wear tolerances suugested. Other than the bushing, the rest of these parts are worse than my used ones. No kidding , I don't make this stuff up. That makes the deal even more frustrating.

My point was you have almost surely not been sold used parts by a disreputable dealer.

The simple fact is there is zero chance that a big time manufacturer is going to start making "high quality" N-series parts - no profit in it. It is a niche market supplied by low budget producers that survive on a shoestring. Hand fit the best of what you have in front of you or buy a couple more kits and see if you can find a better fit.

TOH


I agree with that 100 % I am going to use my current pump shaft, I will try a differant set of gears from CNH. Getting or making a bushing isnt an issue.
I was going to turn out a stepped drift for removing the old bushing while I wait for parts and get brooder house ready for chicks next month.
 

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