48 Ford 8N Front Mount Dist

Dustman525

New User
Hi all first time posting here but have been getting good info.
I put in a Petronix Electronic ignition conversion kit in a Ford 8N 1948 6 Volt positive ground.
I have installed the parts but not sure how to wire it in.
The instructions say the wire that comes out of the Dist goes to the ignition switch and the single terminal on top of the stock square coil goes to ground. How do I do that and what happens to the wire that was originally attached to that single terminal on top of the coil? Where would be a good place to splice in the wire that goes to the key switch.
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
 
The wire that currently goes to the top of the
coil comes from the ignition switch, so splice
that wire to the "wire that comes out of the
Dist". Take a new wire and attach it to the top of
the coil and then attach it to any ground (hint -
the motor and the chassis are the ground).

Good luck!
 

Hey thanks will give that a try.
The battery is a little weak should I give it a full charge or get a new one.
 
I'd at least get the battery load tested,and if
bad,get a good battery. From what I've read,you can
harm the system by running with a weak battery.
 

I hooked the wire from the module to the wire that attached to the coil post and then ran a wire from the coil post to a ground on the engine and no luck starting it.
Have battery on charge.
Could the stock coil be bad?
Thanks,
Dusty
 
" Could the stock coil be bad? "

Yes.

Two chances.

Slim & none.

Coil problems are difficult to diagnose. For starters, round coils are pretty robust & square coils aren’t (because of the difference in insulation used), but neither one will hold up to a poorly done 12v conversion that allows too much current to the coil or leaving the key on (see tip # 38). Too much current creates heat which melts the insulation. Insufficient resistance in a 12v conversion will do the same thing. Rarely do coils just “go bad.”

There are a few ways to see if a coil is bad, but it’s not possible to determine if a coil is good w/o some expensive testing equipment. If you detect a dead short or high resistance in the coil w/ an ohm meter, it’s bad. If it’s cracked, it’s bad. If a sidemount coil w/ battery voltage to the primary will not jump a ¼” gap from the secondary wire to the block, it’s bad. But, here is the hard part: even if you do not detect a short, even if it will produce a spark, even if it’s not cracked, that doesn’t mean the coil will work when it’s hot & under a load. So, it’s a process of elimination. If the tractor starts & runs fine for 30 minutes or an hour then cuts off & refuses to re-start, and you checked for spark at the plugs & it had no spark at all, AND you have the correct voltage at the coil that’s a good sign that you have a bad coil. Let it cool off, restart it & if you have a good spark, odds are it’s a bad coil. But, even then, you might end up w/ a spare coil on the shelf!

Bottom line.......coils do go bad, but I'll venture a guess that 75% of new N coils sold today are sold to folks who do not understand how to diagnose a poor spark problem or how a coil works. So, for those who don’t know any better, in a no spark situation the first suspect is usually the coil……and, more often than not, it isn’t the problem.

Or as one regular around here humorously suggested: "Well, it is like this...I don't know or really understand what that black thing does & I am suspicious of the unknown, so I think the problem is the black thing."

Assuming you get it wired correctly, your most likely problem is a weak battery, bad cables (see tip # 41) or poor grounds. That EI module will not fire at all w/ low battery voltage. Which is why at least one maker advices not to install their product on a 6v system.
75 Tips
 
Hey thanks Bruce,
I am charging the battery and went and bought new battery cables and cleaned off the terminals and chassis ground. I checked the coil where it sets down onto the dist and it was not straight so I straightened it. Everything else looks ok.
Thanks for the link to the 75 tips to.
 
(quoted from post at 17:57:03 02/01/15) Ok went to start it no luck.
Maybe I will go back to points.
It doesn't do even try to start.
eed to take dash mounted resistor out of the circuit. Just move wire leaving resistor & going to coil over to the resistor terminal directly across from it.
 
I recently installed a Petonix in my 9N. The original coil wire stays the same, the extra wire is run to the hot side of the ignition. Works like they said.
 
(quoted from post at 09:29:04 02/01/15) Hi all first time posting here but have been getting good info.
I put in a Petronix Electronic ignition conversion kit in a Ford 8N 1948 6 Volt positive ground.
I have installed the parts but not sure how to wire it in.
The instructions say the wire that comes out of the Dist goes to the ignition switch and the single terminal on top of the stock square coil goes to ground. How do I do that and what happens to the wire that was originally attached to that single terminal on top of the coil? Where would be a good place to splice in the wire that goes to the key switch.
Thanks in advance,
Dusty

when you got your Pertronix it did not come with a can coil? whenI bought mine it came with it and the brown wire and red goes to the + and black to - of the can coil
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:19 02/01/15) I recently installed a Petonix in my 9N. The original coil wire stays the same, the extra wire is run to the hot side of the ignition. Works like they said.
A pencil is not a pencil." Mo, is your tractor 6v Positive ground? His appears to be.
 
Hey Jmor,
Does my tractor have that resistor?
I didnt know if the 6 volt positive ground had that installed.
If so is it behind the tool box?
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 23:22:59 02/01/15) Hey Jmor,
Does my tractor have that resistor?
I didnt know if the 6 volt positive ground had that installed.
If so is it behind the tool box?
Thanks
o to the other site where you also posted & look directly below the ammeter in "Early 8N dash wiring" thread.....great picture.
 
I finally did get the tractor started and it runs great.
My neighbor who actually owns it had a new coil so I checked everything out to make sure it was all correct, put the new stock coil on it and the tractor started right away. I then did as JMOR recommended and changed the wiring on the ballast resistor. I also cleaned off rust on all of the electrical connections to make sure everything had a good contact. Thanks to all for there input. Will adjust carb and he should be good to go.
Dusty
 

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