Basket case

pop rivet · Jan 29, 2015

I'm helping a friend put a 1940 9N back together. It has been sitting apart for 20 years in a shed. The engine was overhauled but never installed. The engine is missing the cam (welch?) plug in the back. The opening for the plug measures 2 1/16". I can't seem to locate that plug. It does not take the cup type. Any suggestions? :?

teddy52food · Jan 29, 2015

Any auto parts store should have that. I may have one in my collection.

4play · Jan 29, 2015

The part number is 91A-6266. I was going to give you a link but a quick google search using the part number is a good start.

Ken(Ark) · Jan 29, 2015

(quoted from post at 14:28:18 01/29/15) I'm helping a friend put a 1940 9N back together. It has been sitting apart for 20 years in a shed. The engine was overhauled but never installed. The engine is missing the cam (welch?) plug in the back. The opening for the plug measures 2 1/16". I can't seem to locate that plug. It does not take the cup type. Any suggestions? :?

I bought an N with a rebuilt motor . The owner passed away and it sat in a barn for years . I finished putting all of the parts back on and fired it up . It recirculated a few dirt dobber nests in the oil and killed it .

These oil pans have baffles so even pouring a few gallons of diesel in and sloshing it around will not clean the debris from an oil pan . I got another from a salvage yard . It had milky crud in the oil so I drained it and did a diesel slosh . Ran it for a few hours but decided to tear it down . It was fairly clean between the fill tube entrance and the center compartment drain . The others still had a thick layer of crud .

I would recommend pulling the pan for an inspection and checking the oil pump while I was there , since it is not installed .

These motors will run a long time , even with a sloppy "rebuild" but will only last as long as the life of the oil pump which is a very flawed design to start with . It could have been an $80 rebuild or an $1800 rebuild ?

pop rivet · Jan 29, 2015

All good information here, thanks guys! I googled the part # and came up with just 8n's, they have the plug I need. The local auto parts stores near me have to have an application. When I tell them what it''s for they look at me like I got three heads. I miss the old mom and pop stores. I have a feeling I''ll be back here for more help before this job is done.

Hobo,NC · Jan 29, 2015

(quoted from post at 06:42:29 01/30/15)
All good information here, thanks guys! I googled the part # and came up with just 8n's, they have the plug I need. The local auto parts stores near me have to have an application. When I tell them what it''s for they look at me like I got three heads. I miss the old mom and pop stores. I have a feeling I''ll be back here for more help before this job is done.

I get mine from NAPA #219-1021... I had to buy a box of 12...
Before I figgerd the NAPA part number out I got them from just-8-n's... I will say the one from J-8Ns is a nicer plug...

Dell (WA) · Jan 30, 2015

Doug.......I use a 2x6? to block my clutch pedal down. And NO, it does NOT weaken the pressure plate springs. But since yer engine is NOT in yer tractor, just un-bolt yer pressure plate and see. The N-Clutch'n'pressure plate was designed to take alotta ABUSE. Something that seldom happens now days. We see "frozen" clutches in seldom run tractors. Surprizingly enuff, you can start yer tractor in-gear. Just follow normal starting procedures: clutch down, tranny in neutral fer safety bypass, 1/3-throttle, 2 rumpa-rumpas and a QUICK pull on the spring loaded choke knobbie. Simple, eh? .......Dell

Basket case

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teddy52food

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pop rivet

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