New Water Pump

Anyone had a problem with the old mounting studs not being long enough when replacing a water pump?

I am thinking about grinding down the casting at the mounting points as I certainly do not want to break off one of the studs trying to get it out to replace it.

Any ideas anyone?

Put a couple H2O pumps on no problem like yours if its a made in china or india no telling what you got. How does it compare to your old one as far as the bolt length? Were the old bolts correct to start with. I would hold off on grinding anything at this point, lets wait and see others have to say.

" Anyone had a problem with the old mounting studs not being long enough when replacing a water pump?"

No.

That's because I never buy new or rebuilt water pumps (or generators, carbs, etc). I have my OEM Ford parts rebuilt.

That being said......

Install longer studs. It's not that hard.

Heat them then use a stud remover.
75 Tips

Yes. I was able to get new studs that are just the right length at O'Reilly Auto Parts. They were hanging on the wall in the store. A stud remover tool helps -- I did not have to use heat.

(quoted from post at 13:59:35 12/15/14)

No.
That's because I never buy new or rebuilt water pumps (or generators, carbs, etc). I have my OEM Ford parts rebuilt.

Click to expand...

I did not think about rebuilding the old one, partly as I figured with my luck the housing would crack or something. I just got the replacement pump from YesterdaysTractors,& it had a light oily stuff on it, probably to prevent rust. I have used vinegar on metal tubing to remove stuff like this would it work on this type metal before I mount/paint this pump.
Forgot to ask, did you rebuild your own or send it off to get rebuilt on the old pump. Thanks!

(quoted from post at 15:47:49 12/15/14) Anyone had a problem with the old mounting studs not being long enough when replacing a water pump?

I am thinking about grinding down the casting at the mounting points as I certainly do not want to break off one of the studs trying to get it out to replace it.

Any ideas anyone?

Click to expand...

If it were me I would probably replace the studs but I also wouldn't hesitate to grind the flange back if the studs proved to be "difficult".

TOH

If you are not in a pinch try rebuilding the original provided it is in fact an original. If it works, no grinding needed, no studs to replace and you can return the new one.

I believe the rebuild kit runs about as much as a replace aftermarket pump.
And after you rebuilt it, you can say you know how to rebuild pumps.

One thing I'd never done till two years ago was rebuild a water pump. When I saw the cost of a new one for my '54 IHC truck I decided to give it a go.

Nowhere as easy as I thought it would be. Firstly I needed the use of an arbor press, for disassembly and assembly. Will Kellogg in Arizona helped me over the phone and sent me two gaskets, the mechanical seal, bearing and shaft all for $17.!!

BUT I needed a special tool for installing the seal because it is a two-part deal and so when pressing it in the tool bears equally on the inner and outer at the same time ( the inner part of the seal is press fit onto the shaft, and the outer seal section of the mechanical seal is bottomed out in the casting like a normal neoprene seal. He supplied the tool, a thick recessed aluminum washer, for $25. but said it would work on my chev Van water pump as well.

Kellogg Automotive (water pump & seal and bearing specialist)
http://www.kelloggautomotive.com/wpparts.html
He sure did right by me. Will is a great guy.

Then I had to machine just the right amount off the impeller snout because the nature of the seal had changed over the years. The original seal had an inner ring of carbon that was meant to touch the impeller snout. I'm forgetting the details already. He told me over the phone how to calculate how much to machine off and it worked out nice -- with the help of my friend Jim and his lathe.

Anyway. . . big sigh of relief when it didn't leak and no side play.

My apologies!

I went and clicked Reply rather than Edit when I edited in Will Kellogg's web site.