Tall T

Well-known Member
Here's another "painting woes" laugh for JMOR and WW2

Talk about discouraging.
Bubbles on my Hats as well.

Strike anything I said.
I probably introduced the dammed initial moisture through my air compressor while spraying.

Anyway . . . I've had it with these ups and downs.
I'll just work the thing till it drops and forget about anything vaguely resembling restoration.

They say be thankful for small mercies, well hard as that is at the moment,maybe this is one of them:
I BRUSH painted the insides with primer and marine enamel, and I brush painted the primer on the visible, now bubbled faces. . . and yes, I see that tiny rust spot.

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mvphoto15631.jpg
 

Ouch! BTDT with painting. Got a giant air compressor to help eliminate the moisture problem. I see those small air units that condition the air coming from a compressor to cool it and condense it. One of those would really help. I will get one of those before painting another vintage car.
 

Air driers, Yes sir!

I'm not really feeling sorry for myself, I'm just PO'd that most of my learning seems to come the hard way.

Thanks,
Terry
 
I have had some success painting for a country boy,
good job at 15_20 ft.

I have a large dryer on the compressor out put hose, then I
have another small dryer on the gun incoming air,
it's about the size of a fuel filter.

Change it after each painting job.

Always blow the compressor tank until no water
droplets come out, sometimes air up and purge tank
two or three times.
Surprising how much water can be in the incoming air
on a high humidity day.

Keep painting some small projects, you will be
surprised how good a finish you can get.

Even the professionals mess up sometimes.
Painting and preparing the surface to paint is a
learned art, in my opinion,

Just keep trying,
 
I've got an air dryer from Princess Auto. It has desiccant pellets inside which need to be replaced. It's a big one--basically a section of 2" or 3" pipe that's about 3 ft long. The air comes in the bottom and goes up. In addition to the desiccant, part of the idea is that the larger diameter of the dryer (compared to the air line) reduces the velocity such that water droplets can't be carried by the air and fall to the bottom. I'm always amazed how much water comes out the drain valve when I shut things down. Water that would have been going into whatever I was doing.

-Paul
 
TT, forgot to tell you, I've also got Terry Jacks as a neighbor (went to school with the sucker), see him every now and then-whoopee. We all 'loved' Islands in the sun-not. ;^)
 

I've got a beauty of an older twin divilbiss but it is on a very small tank. It is a continuous duty job with pressurized oil, replacable bearings and stainless valves. when pressure is reached, air is sent through copper tubing to the top of the cylinders to unload the valves but the flywheel keeps rolling.

I know I drained the tank but I don't think I did it just before painting -- my own fault. Any compressor manual says to drain the tank daily. I had two water "traps" between compressor and gun but no desiccant type of dryer.

Here's another bright side . . . hard to find :)
I'll be painting my '54 International 2 ton this summer so I'm glad I learned something even if the hard way.

I'll never paint again without air dryers.

Thanks,
T
 
Maxwell,

Thanks!
All your advice well taken that will be religiously adhered to
from now on!

Terry
 

No kidding . . . the amount of water that spews out!
You'd think that I would have put two and two together and realized that just because you can't see moisture as you spray, it still might be there. Big mistake.

I'll look into the Princess Auto air drier.

Thanks,
T
 
Bob,

Terry Jacks . . . and THAT song!
I'd turn the radio off if it came on.

Funny you should mention Jacks.
Jerry Scheff told me that when he was on a break from Elvis work, he'd go over to Vancouver and do session work for extra bucks and Terry jacks was one of those jobs. Valdy was another, but I like Valdy's stuff and he and I are good friends.

He actually agreed with me that Jacks was kind of a whimpy character, but that it paid well. :D

T
 

They used to sell a filter that had a roll of paper inside of it to catch water. The paper looked like a roll of brown toilet paper. I have actually seen toilet paper used in them. They aren't hard to make either. I've seen them made also, a big piece of PVC that a roll of paper will fit inside of and capped on each end with the air coming in one side and out the other side. I have taken the regular water traps where the cup is removable and I have stuffed some blue shop towels in the bottom of the cup and then wrapped a couple of them around the brass element where the cup screws back on. It works. I had to do that back when I had a 33 gallon craftsman oiless compressor. Those things pump more water than air. I have also plumbed an old air tank inline after the compressor to act as an expansion tank to let the air cool down more and catch additional moisture. I've done all kinds of things to eliminate moisture back before I built me a nice big compressor.
 
Please clarify what causes those bubbles in the paint. Is this problem unique to damp, moist, wet areas of the country? I live in South East Arizona where, as you are all well aware, is generally pretty dry and I have never seen that problem occur with anyone's painting, including mine.
 
I use those round orange filters that screw onto the air fitting on the paint gun. Makes the gun a little more clumsy but so far I haven't had water problems in the spray using these filters. I suppose one of these filters could be put on the other end of the hose too instead of on the gun. Jim
 
Should be a length of hose between the compressor and the filter.
50 to a 100 foot. The compressed air needs the length to cool the
air down so the moisture can be removed. I usually run a 100 foot
hose to the filter/air dryer, then a 50 foot hose to the gun.
Good luck, T Tall. We are pulling for you. We've all had our
frustrations. You can make it right.
 
Great, that's two more ways to cool the air and catch condensation on the way to the regulator setup. How about 50' of hose coiled in a washtub of cold water before the 1st water trap? :wink:

Man I wish I had used the shop towel trick in my glass bowl water trap. I had a roll of those blue paper ones. I had another ancient water trap connected to the glass one and next to my regulator . . . but it had no element in it cause i couldn't find one the one time I looked. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow . . . on THIS forum it will probably look familiar.

Fuddy,


I get Too Tall from a few people
Notably from Bud Williams our lifeguard at Vesuvius Beach. He's not really our lifeguard, but he was a Malibu lifeguard for 40 years before moving to Salt spring Island. His son is still a lifeguard there and one day Bud told me several years ago that his son had to rescue David Hasslehoff while he was filming an episode of Baywatch.

Other people's choices are Tall, TT,
Double T Only one old fisherman ever called me that and he'd always tell his friends that it was what he called me. :)
Great guy!

[b:e21527ed49]All[/b:e21527ed49] Kids . . . and a few older people too for fun: "Tall Terry"

Funniest kid moment re. my height.
My friend who owned a chainsaw business up the hill -- I bought my 1st Husqvarna there -- came into the corner store with his 4 year old boy. The boy was craning his neck, giving me the longest looks (I always pretend I don't see them) and then he and his dad went home. A few days later I ran into his dad and he says, "When we got home the other day my son asked me, "Dad, is Tall Terry the oldest man in the world?" :p

A couple of kids in a grocery store followed me around getting them to pretend I was falling on them and I'd pull out at the last moment. They'd see if I could make them blink. Then they found another kid in Thrifty's and dragged him over for me to do it to him.

To them I really look like a telephone pole
kids are so quick to have fun
like a dog ready to play
at the clap of a hand. :)

Cheers,
T
 
Desiccants like silca gel and 13x are the way to go if you want really
dry air, since separators and TP filters only work on condensed
(liquid) water while desiccants will absorb gaseous water right out
of the air.

Most desiccant media like 13X and silica gel can be dried and
reused over and over again by spreading them on a cookie sheet
and putting them in a 400 degree oven for a couple of hours.
 
Thanks for the tips Kyle; I'll be copy/pasting ALL these great tips.

Richard from the Arid Zone,

I think within this epilogue that I just rattled off before hitting the hay, you might find your answer about paint breaking out in blisters.

_______________________________
Showcrop,

Can you think of any environmental anomaly, where your Datsan was stored, that could have precipitated the expansion of the air in your paint that brought up the bubbles? Was it like an oven up in the rafters?

I think I have mine figured out now, after reading some stuff about these air bubbles, that used to be water vapor from the gun. The writers said that paint jobs can look fine for months even years and then break out in bubbles. But I didn't see any talk of possible catalysts or factors that might be the cause the otherwise dormant problem from a previous paint job to break out like GEARS said, the measles.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/0901sr-help-with-troubleshooting-paint-problems/
[b:ccf41bcc34]Blistering[/b:ccf41bcc34]

Blistering, sometimes called pimples, or bubbles or swelled areas that show up in the paint surface [b:ccf41bcc34]weeks or months after a paint job.[/b:ccf41bcc34] They're caused by moisture that's been trapped under the paint surface and is sometimes caused by spraying during really high humidity conditions. [b:ccf41bcc34]It can also be caused by contaminated air lines, failure to drain your compressor[/b:ccf41bcc34], or by painting over an unclean or contaminated surface. Blistering can sometimes be repaired by sanding the affected area and refinishing, but usually one has to actually strip the area to its bare substrate and start from scratch. This malady can be prevented by always draining your compressor and air lines, proper cleaning and prepping before painting, making sure everything is totally dry after wet sanding, and making sure you use the correct thinner/reducer for your spray conditions.

In my case for revealing both the previous flawed paint job, and my flawed paint job on my rims, the insanely high humidity in my tractor tent had to have been the catylist for the breakout of the blisters.

Here's the thing:
The previous owner of my tractor had it in an open shed for ten years and yet the painting mistake, the blisters in the body panels didn't show up till right now . . . but the trapped water vapor or air must have been there .

So what do I do, put the Jube in my new tent with the front zipped up partly because we were having strong wind and partly because I thought it was good to have it out of direct and sometimes heavy rain.

But the inside of that tent was like a super humidifier. It would have been less humid right out in the pouring rain rather than in there. If I tapped the ceiling inside, huge drops of water all over that section would rain down on the tractor and ground enough to make me have to jump out of the way. I was sponge mopping the ceiling every two days but there was still intense humidity until the time I started leaving the flap unzipped. But now that I see my folly, I should have ONLY zipped it up for strong wind. Imagine how high the humidity had to be to condense into that volume of water on the ceiling!!
No air movement and no heat to boot.

Like someone here on the forum said he does with one of these shelters, maybe I'll use the tent just as a paint spray booth in the hot dry weather when it is very warm and dry inside.

There should be a disclaimer for these poly shelters . . . don't put any machinery you value in one of them especially in areas of high humidity, even worse down in this valley at sea level where I've been for these 35 years . . . without leaving the front flap wide open. It could use a back end window too or a fan.

Even the dew is so heavy here, that in the morning it looks like it rained at night when it didn't.
No rain for the past five days, strangely enough . . . but prior to this stoppage, it rained daily. One night of a thunderous downpour, at 1 AM was when my flat roof finally sprung the leak.

Anyway, ces't la vie.
Thanks for the distraction from the tractor blues, for good old encouragement and for the mountain of pro tips for a better painting day.

Terry - learn the hard way - Graham
 
If you really want to restore it then I would fix it. Start over and paint unseen surfaces first. Use Picklex 20 on the metal surface to get rid of that rust. Restoration isn't easy and it has a way of showing us our weaknesses and the weakness of our tools.
 
Not good Terry. I understand your disgust.
I use a combination regulator/dryer that I bought at an auction years ago. Never had those water problems with it.
As for your tractor; just look at it as the same as the first scratch or dent you put in a new car or repainted tractor.
You know, like the brick that rolled over the top of the loader and banged the hood or or the disc plow that came up and dented the fender or the branch that came out of nowhere and scraped the nose.
If you use them for what they were intended for they get banged up anyway and don't stay nice for long.

100_1885.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:02:53 01/28/15) Should be a length of hose between the compressor and the filter.
50 to a 100 foot. The compressed air needs the length to cool the
air down so the moisture can be removed. I usually run a 100 foot
hose to the filter/air dryer, then a 50 foot hose to the gun.
Good luck, T Tall. We are pulling for you. We've all had our
frustrations. You can make it right.


Expansion and compression help . Like you have pointed out , dont hook your dryer up at the tank but after a hose . An old air compressor tank with an inlet and separate outlet ( and drain valve ) will help dry the air . You would be surprised at how much water will drain from a dummy tank in the middle of two 100' hoses .
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:32 01/28/15) Here's another "painting woes" laugh for JMOR and WW2

Talk about discouraging.
Bubbles on my Hats as well.

Strike anything I said.
I probably introduced the dammed initial moisture through my air compressor while spraying.

Anyway . . . I've had it with these ups and downs.
I'll just work the thing till it drops and forget about anything vaguely resembling restoration.

They say be thankful for small mercies, well hard as that is at the moment,maybe this is one of them:
I BRUSH painted the insides with primer and marine enamel, and I brush painted the primer on the visible, now bubbled faces. . . and yes, I see that tiny rust spot.

mvphoto15630.jpg


mvphoto15631.jpg
o laughing here. I feel your pain. All that work & less than expected results suck.
 
Terry. Its a learning experience.
Better you beating up on your self than someone beating you up.

Few years ago when I began spray gun painting I wanted to spray the hood of my car. I read everything that I could. Never had anyone to show me the ropes. I bought and added driers, filters, great gun, already had a nice big compressor that I had been using for years. I also read about cooling the air with a long hose run

.....No one or no book ever told me to get rid of that high priced in line oilier that my tools needed.!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 05:03:40 01/29/15) If you really want to restore it then I would fix it. Start over and paint unseen surfaces first. Use Picklex 20 on the metal surface to get rid of that rust. Restoration isn't easy and it has a way of showing us our weaknesses and the weakness of our tools.

Yes.
. . . and it's easy for me to say, I'll just use it till it drops but that isn't in my nature anyway.

Picklex 20 . . . I'll have to try it.

Thanks,
T
 
Not good Terry. I understand your disgust.
I use a combination regulator/dryer that I bought at an auction years ago. Never had those water problems with it.
As for your tractor; just look at it as the same as the first scratch or dent you put in a new car or repainted tractor.
You know, like the brick that rolled over the top of the loader and banged the hood or or the disc plow that came up and dented the fender or the branch that came out of nowhere and scraped the nose.
If you use them for what they were intended for they get banged up anyway and don't stay nice for long.

Hi Jerry,

Yep, "disgust" is the word alright.
I had previously decided that I would do all the sheet metal anyway because of other dings and irregularity, but then decided to forget about that in favor of the pressing things like kingpins. So now body work is back on the agenda and soon if those bubbles start popping and bleeding rust.

Sounds like you've had your share of let downs and learned to roll with the punches.

Compared to the miles of sheet metal in a car and rusty or missing rocker panels and moth-eaten fenders, looking at it just now when I warmed it up, it looks so easy by comparison.

This time round I'll use my friend the sign makers, industrial, Ingersoll Rand compressor and blaster,
Is it really necessary to use epoxy primer in the future?
Should there be some kind of desiccant element in the red water trap . . . like the blue paper towel idea.

I like someone elses idea here of the paper towel roll in a PVC pipe.

Thanks,
T

Here's the regulator setup I used and my Devilbiss.
I have two other smaller compressors as well that I don't use for painting.
Devilbiss
DISPLACEMENT CFM 12.20
Delivery CFM 7.7 @100 psi
But the continuous duty cycle makes a big difference re. steady delivery.

I used 50' of hose to the regulator and another 50' to the gun.

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mvphoto15657.jpg
 

Thanks Jesse,

I took the rest of my Damn-it-alls and so the pain is almost gone.
Bitter pills to swallow.
But gone are the days of admiring my rear rims like a kid with a new toy. :)
 

Gabe, that must have been a heavy blow, oil in the gun and paint! With painting forgetting one precautionary procedure
bodes disaster.

After seeing water spray out of an air wrench, you'd think I'd remember to purge the tank. I'll sure also set up another tank for cooling, for supply and as another trap, as I have a Webster and a Speed Aire sitting around doing nothing.

Here's what I mean about the humidity in this valley, at sea level and at this time of year. I took these photos at NOON today, clear sky and there has now been no rain for 6 days.

Given my record, I guess I'd better renew my prescription for Damn-it-alls. :)

mvphoto15658.jpg


mvphoto15659.jpg
 
I'm lucky - in a way.
The back of my yard abuts a 16' high factory wall. Big ugly.
It's a small, high tech foundry. Big chillers run 24/7. Noisy.
It emits some burning plastic like stink sometimes.
There are some advantages though.
I know the owner pretty well.
He stops by for coffee regularly. Hides from his employees.
He had his maintenence crew drill a hole in the block wall and gave me hook up to his 70 hp (yes seventy) screw drive air compressor. All the dried, oil free air I can use. I run it through 50' of hose to my own little dryer/regulator, then through another 25' of hose to my spray gun.
No oil or water spots in my paint.
But I have to paint outside.
Now if I could just find a way to keep the bugs off of it...
 
I have 2 pieces of 4" pvc pipe capped about 3 feet long mounted on the wall. 1st one inlet on top filled with glass marbles ( to cool the air. 2nd one has a nylon stocking filled with disscant outlet on top and a drain on bottom of both and a fan pointed at the compressor(s), Also 5 or 8 bucks for a thermometer humidity gauge on the wall is money well spent
 
Jerry,
Incredible, I've looked at some of those multi-thousand dollar compressors. Talk about making the most of the big ugly.
I thought that Life was having something to quit,
but now I see it is having bugs to work out. :D

Dune,
Could you post a pic of your 3' X 4" cooler/traps setup?
Do you use epoxy primer as a rule?

thanks,
T
 

Tall T,

That is some bodacious condensation your pictures show. I would be afraid to paint anything without some sort of climate control environment for that reason alone.

Wolfie,
Thanks for sharing your oiling story.

This is a great thread and we all are learning.

Best,
Rick
 
I get the tractor out of there whenever it isn't raining, but today even with the front flap open, blue sky, I could still smack the ceiling and get droplets . . . no where near as bad as before, with great water drops hanging off the grey metal rods of the sidewalls and ridge pole. I still can't believe I didn't clue in to the danger! Big DOH!

My plan was to just put it under a shed roof off the end of my building, but the roof needs hicking further up the concrete block wall . . . And the round-tuit that I ordered for that job hasn't come around yet.

Incredibly bad plan for vehicle storage.
Poor old Jube, trapped in an industrial humidifier.
I could have gone on for months even years without anyone finding out I muffed my paint job but oh no . . . enter the humidifier tent from hell to blow my cover :D

T

But on a serious note which was where this thread started
I thought I did a real good rim paint job and you all know I was proud of that. . . . a good job up until my air line moisture slip up reared it's pimply head. That's what stings . . .
the intensive effort it took to get it right enough for me and
even good enough for the fall fair
mostly lost to that fly in the ointment.

I should mention, as WW2N remembered, I had a pretty intense time with those rims. To compound my damage repair hassle, just when I was starting the job
I fell backwards with my landscape rake which drove me to the ground hard, I'm ashamed to say. It was a moment of serious fear that I might have broken my right hip.
It turns out that what I did was put two inch to 1.5" cracks in my right pelvis. I found out weeks later what I had done, when I went to the surgeon who replaced my hip for an xray checkup of the nickle/titanium robohip. I had to use a walker for every step for two weeks with the cracks and then I was using a cane and rope down to my shop, where I did the Hat rims. Every time I shuffled a big rim to another table or to the floor mats I thought my right leg might have the same collapsing type of pain that I had been having.
But the cracks are perfectly healed doc says. :)
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:04 01/29/15)
Now if I could just find a way to keep the bugs off of it...

I hear that. One summer we were painting my dad's pickup after repairing some crash damage. It kept being so windy that we decided to try to sneak it in just as the wind died down one evening. We forgot that when the wind goes down, the bugs come up. Got one coat on it that looked pretty good until the bugs landed in it. We were NOT amused.
 
Tall T, how many gallons is your air compressor? I have an 80 gal tank on my Quincy and I have only had one issue with water, but it was so long ago I can't remember why it happened. Since then I have always had a water separator after my regulator and even when I run 2 guns at the same time I have never had any water come through my line. I wonder if you water issues have anything to do with the size of your air tank.

Good luck, Jeff
 
Tall T, how many gallons is your air compressor? I have an 80 gal tank on my Quincy and I have only had one issue with water, but it was so long ago I can't remember why it happened. Since then I have always had a water separator after my regulator and even when I run 2 guns at the same time I have never had any water come through my line. I wonder if you water issues have anything to do with the size of your air tank.

Hi Jeff,

Very interesting. I never thought of the volume of air having anything more to do with spraying than with air supply. I'm trying to grasp the science of that and you may be right.
for one thing, if some turkey (that's me) left a puddle in the tank bottom before spraying, then in a shallower tank the water is closer to the outlet and the air above the water wouly be proportionately more humid.

I know that the tank that came with this Divilbiss is woefully small, but given the adequate pumping and the fact that the compressor never stops rolling is more of a guarantee of continuous supply, I was thinking I could get away without changing that small tank.

That entire unit was sold as a construction equipment nailer.

I have a portable 11 gallon Webster tank, and a Speedaire tank
sitting idly by. I think the Speedaire is 20 gallon.

A friend owns a big fabricating shop and he has these big honking compressors up in his rafters that he was offering me, but the main reason I passed was my NEED and the fact that they both have 3 phase wiring. Here's the granddaddy Devilbiss I was eying. As i recall, the one in the foreground is Chinese, so I was interested in the Devilbiss.

Interesting cooling fins on the pipes. My Devilbiss has the output pipe coiled up around the pump driveshaft and behind the flywheel blades for cooling. Complete rebuild kits are still available for this Devilbiss and for my own.

Thanks for the input,
Terry
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mvphoto15677.jpg
 
3 phase can be annoying, but it is relatively simple to come up with. Take a 3 phase motor that is more hp than the air compressor and run it on 220v, you will either have to pull start it or run a pony motor, but it will generate the 3rd leg to go with your 220 to make 3 phase. Another option is run the pump you have now and just plumb it to several tanks giving you a larger storage. The larger storage give the air time to settle and stabilize it's temp before going out to the spray gun...

Another 2 cents, I returned my $400 devilbiss gun for the $29 one from harbor freight and the nearly identical $39 from Menards. They actually sprayed better and were easier to clean up....

Jeff
 
(quoted from post at 16:48:48 01/30/15) 3 phase can be annoying, but it is relatively simple to come up with. Take a 3 phase motor that is more hp than the air compressor and run it on 220v, you will either have to pull start it or run a pony motor, but it will generate the 3rd leg to go with your 220 to make 3 phase.
Jeff

If you want decent 3 phase power from that RPC at a minimum you need to bridge the 3rd leg to the other two with a couple suitably sized run caps. In my experience running an air compressor off an RPC requires a good 2X sized RPC and is still a royal PITA. Everything in my shop that is 3 phase runs off this home brew RPC except my 3P compressor which I converted to single phase for ease of use.....

TOH

IMG_0890_1.jpg
 
TOH, would you teach me more about what you are doing there? Is that better than the way I am doing it? I run a mill, similar to a Bridgeport and a Connecticut Press Brake on my system, and never at the same time. My Guillotine ban saw was 3 phase, but after the second transformer unit went out we changed the motor to 220v. I've thought about getting a second lathe to go with my Rockwell 14" and some of them that have tempted me were 3 phase...

Jeff
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:34 01/30/15) TOH, would you teach me more about what you are doing there? Is that better than the way I am doing it? I run a mill, similar to a Bridgeport and a Connecticut Press Brake on my system, and never at the same time. My Guillotine ban saw was 3 phase, but after the second transformer unit went out we changed the motor to 220v. I've thought about getting a second lathe to go with my Rockwell 14" and some of them that have tempted me were 3 phase...

Jeff

I don't know if it is better but it is convenient ;-) I power all of the 3 phase machines in my shop from a 100A 3 phase sub-panel fed by a whole shop RPC control panel (top photo). I built the RPC with provision for two separate idler motors that can be switched in and out as needed to support the 3 phase line load. The motors and their run caps are external to the main control box. The RPC currently has a 10HP idler motor that has been sufficient for everything I have in the shop so I have never bothered to add the second motor. I am the only machine operator so I seldom have anything more than the automatic bandsaw running at the same times as another machine. It is a knockoff of a design posted to the Practical Machinist RPC sub-forum and I can send you the schematics if you are interested. It's push button start using a bank of start caps (inside RPC panel) to kick off the first idler. That idler provides the power to start the second one if needed and once started the individual idlers can be brought on or taken off line as needed. The panel easily handles my current 3P machine lineup. The bottom picture is several years old showing the RPC control panel feeding the sub-panel and the bigger mill. I had just started running the conduit with the individual machine circuits fo rthe other machines down the back wall of the shop.

Cincinnati Cinova 205-14 mill (pictured)
Rockwell 14" metal lathe
Rockwell 11" metal lathe
Kysor-Johnson 10x18 horizontal bandsaw
Enco 20" vertical bandsaw
Covel tool and cutter grinder
Rockwell 10" Unisaw

With some careful shopping on eBay you can build a similar system for roughly $500. Sure beats the heck out of one 3 phase outlet and a bunch of corded machines. IMO if you plan on having a shop full of 3 phase machines and you don't have access to POCO three phase service it's the only way to go.

TOH

IMG_0889_1.jpg


IMG_1793.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:56:13 01/30/15) I do not think you can run a compressor on a phase converter.. :?:

You can but you need a REAL phase converter that is making something reasonably close to POCO quality three phase service (e.g. a properly tuned Rotary Phase Converter (RPC) or equivalent). A "static" converter with run caps and no idler is not going to work well at all. CNC machine tools are very sensitive to phase imbalances but even they can be accomodated if you spend enough effort tuning an RPC.

The obnoxious problem with an RPC and a comopressor is the intermittent nature of the compressor run cycles. It's a PITA to have to keep the converter running throughout the day with nothing else going on just in case your compressor decides to cycle on. I suppose if you put some thought to it you could design the compressor control to start the RPC first and shut it down afterwards but that might get complicated if you are also using the RPC for other machines ;-)

TOH
 
I threw this together to clean up the air while painting that was left over after I tore down my dads paint room... The filter uses a roll of toilet paper...

Inlet, water separator, regulator and the grey can is the filter... I never had a issue using striking paper in this set up other than growing up had to go out to dad's hobby body shop and steal a roll of striking paper for house use :)

I have never ran a filter at the paint gun did not have to but I have seen pro's use them...

http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?14140-Toilet-paper-air-filter

paintsetuptool.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 18:45:25 01/30/15) I threw this together to clean up the air while painting that was left over after I tore down my dads paint room... The filter uses a roll of toilet paper...

Inlet, water separator, regulator and the grey can is the filter... I never had a issue using striking paper in this set up other than growing up had to go out to dad's hobby body shop and steal a roll of striking paper for house use :)

So the final filter before the gun is the toilet paper filter, I see.
what is "striking paper"?

You've got me thinking I can make a toilet roll fit this grey can on the present setup that I used, but maybe I should go, inlet, water trap, regulator then the grey can. (?)

Thanks,
Terry

mvphoto15720.jpg
 
That's the way I paint 50/50 and it looks great - that is at fifty feet or fifty MPH, It's all good. :lol: :eek: :lol:
 
We had the toilet paper filter along time ago. The thing to watch out on that is letting the toilet paper get wet and not changing it out soon enough. When the paper starts coming apart and going through the line, you can image trying to get that shat out of the air lines... We ended up moving that airhose to the other shop to use with blow guns and replaced the hose in the paint shop...

Jeff
 

The compressor I use the filters on I never have had a issue with water...

We would drain the compressor and change out the filters and paint... The compressor (EMGLO) we painted with did have a water cooled after cooler on it... This compressor also has the water separator between the cooler (pipe) and tank...

The other compressor (Westward) is water maker I need to work on that.... I am glad this came up I will look into making a cooler like this..

http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2011/09/06/aftercooling-a-compressor-to-cut-down-on-moisture/

pix of my compressor team...


aircomp1.jpg
 

Good site info.
When the writer suggested a coiled copper pipe in a tub of flowing water, I couldn't figure out how water condensing in the tubing didn't still make it to the tank.

He didn't say, but like you pointed out, the coiled tubing would need a water separator between it and the tank . . . just like the water trap on that oil cooler.

The automatic tank purging drain valve sounds like a winner too; also a real fail safe against forgetting to drain the tank -- which I don't expect I'll ever do again. :)

T
 
(quoted from post at 06:46:36 02/01/15)
Good site info.
When the writer suggested a coiled copper pipe in a tub of flowing water, I couldn't figure out how water condensing in the tubing didn't still make it to the tank.

He didn't say, but like you pointed out, the coiled tubing would need a water separator between it and the tank . . . just like the water trap on that oil cooler.

The automatic tank purging drain valve sounds like a winner too; also a real fail safe against forgetting to drain the tank -- which I don't expect I'll ever do again. :)

T

I pad my money for a auto drain I would have been better off spending it on wimmins... Extend the drain out from under the tank and put a ball valve on it... Blip it when you turn it on and blip it when you turn it off problem solved...

On the emglo you can see the hose leaving the compressor head to a pipe that runs horizontal that's the cooler,,, at the end you don't see hidden by a tractor is the separator and water hose connection for the cooler...

I know you can braze/solder keep a eye out for a junk Condenser coil... I have a couple hang'N on the wall guess its time to put'em to work...
 
A convenient and simple drain, YES!
and ditto to forget the auto drain.

I almost forget my bachelor special . . .
I buy Scott Towels but in the "choose-a-size" where the sheets are also perforated on the half sheet.
I put a sythe blade (with no handle) in my trusty blacksmith's vise and cut the paper towel rolls in half. Like magic, every piece comes off 5" square. Four or six rolls = 12 rolls of skookum absorbant paper that lasts me all the way to the next store special -- which is frequent.

I use it for everything and this paper towel material would also be my choice for a high humidity , good load-up compressor filter element. Maybe the blue mechanics towels cut down the same way. (?)

As someone said, a soggy charmin toilet roll could become your enemy real quick. But a fine mesh screen at the outlet might be a good addition even using paper toweling.

Problem with my bachelor special is that a guest's first impression is that of toilet paper sitting around my home and shop cause the towel rolls were cut in half. So I'm always explaining, no, its stubby paper towels. :D
 

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