Oil filter change

G6 at Snook, TX

Well-known Member
Do you always change the oil filter with the old oil? I didn't have that many hours on the tractors this year and I while I will change the oil, is a filter change necessary?
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:37 01/26/15) Do you always change the oil filter with the old oil? I didn't have that many hours on the tractors this year and I while I will change the oil, is a filter change necessary?

Filter systems have a bypass built into them. The best filters go to bypass at about 8 hours. When you change oil the fresh oil breaks up some of the deposits which in turn are caught by the filter. So yes, change the filter. Pretty cheap "insurance".

Rick
 
I always do but it is not really necessary, especially the bypass filter on 9/2/8N Fords.

You should, however, at some point remove the cannister and clean the sediment from the bottom. You will be surprised at the amount of bearing material you will find if, as most, it has not been cleaned in decades.

Dean
 
As in the old TV commercial that went something
like this. A gruff looking mechanic comes on
wiping his greasy hands with the old red rags
they (we) use to use with a motor in the
background being tore down, he holds up a Fram
filter and says "YA can pay me now then looks at motor being dissembled Or and he
looks back to face the camera YA can pay me
later. Still true. You would be better
off changing the filter and adding a qt of
clean oil. But an oil change with a new filter
is the best and cheapest insurance you can buy-
-- and I bet you already knew the answer to
your ? before ya asked wink '?
 
Just in the way I grew up, but for the last 50 odd years, I have figured that if I was already in for the oil change, there is little extra time & cost to do the filter. They just go together with me.
 
My method of cleaning the oil filter canister without removing is: after draining engine oil and removing filter, I take mineral spirits and pour into the housing until half full. Let stand for at least an hour. I then take the top cover/cap (with old gasket)and place on top without the bolt. Next, take your compressed air nozzle with a long stem and insert into bolt hole on cover. Place a plastic grocery bag over your hand and housing to limit overspray. Holding down the cover, blast the spirits around while getting the stem to the bottom and 'feel' around to get it under the lip on the bottom of housing. Remove nozzle and cover, place a drip pan underneath the housing, and then you can open the drain plug and let it all drain out. You can then put air nozzle back in with plastic bag and blow air around to help crud drain better. Flushing with clean spirits will also help get all the particles. Once the flow appears clean and free of debris, it should be good to go.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 08:03:33 01/27/15) Just in the way I grew up, but for the last 50 odd years, I have figured that if I was already in for the oil change, there is little extra time & cost to do the filter. They just go together with me.

One of the beauties of life is things evolve. With the extended service life and expense of modern engine oils the current trend is moving to a filter change between oil drains. :roll:

TOH
 
Truth to be told, I asked this question in a moment of cheapness. Removing the top and putting a new gasket, filter, and sucking out the old oil is really easy. Honestly, I like the NAPA 1010 version which I understand is Wix. Some of the others I have seen are cheaply made.

Sometimes you don't go looking for troubles where there are none to find. I will change my oil filter.
 
You must remove it if you want to remove the heavy sediment in the bottom. (Yes, I know that removing this sediment is not necessary, but I do so.)

You will find that the first time you do this you will need a heavy screwdriver and elbow grease to loosen the sediment.

Removing/replacing the cannister is a 5 minute job (perhaps, 15 minutes the first time).

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 09:58:54 01/27/15) You must remove it if you want to remove the heavy sediment in the bottom. (Yes, I know that removing this sediment is not necessary, but I do so.)

You will find that the first time you do this you will need a heavy screwdriver and elbow grease to loosen the sediment.

Removing/replacing the cannister is a 5 minute job (perhaps, 15 minutes the first time).

Dean

If a man wanted to he could buy a used canister off eBay for a few dollars then swap it out and let the dirty can drip upside down for an hour or save it for a rainy day .
 
(quoted from post at 13:36:18 01/27/15) My method of cleaning the oil filter canister without removing is: after draining engine oil and removing filter, I take mineral spirits and pour into the housing until half full. Let stand for at least an hour. I then take the top cover/cap (with old gasket)and place on top without the bolt. Next, take your compressed air nozzle with a long stem and insert into bolt hole on cover. Place a plastic grocery bag over your hand and housing to limit overspray. Holding down the cover, blast the spirits around while getting the stem to the bottom and 'feel' around to get it under the lip on the bottom of housing. Remove nozzle and cover, place a drip pan underneath the housing, and then you can open the drain plug and let it all drain out. You can then put air nozzle back in with plastic bag and blow air around to help crud drain better. Flushing with clean spirits will also help get all the particles. Once the flow appears clean and free of debris, it should be good to go.

Tim Daley(MI)

Sure sounds like a good argument for switching to a spin on ($3 cheap filter) vs staying with the original canister ($11 not-so-cheap filter). several years on filters alone and you're at the break even point. and no canister cleaning.

yeah; i know the mentioned cleaning doesn't need to happen every chamge. but given the choice i would rather opt out of a pita process.

my choice; my money. not saying right or wrong; just what works for me.
 

I agree, if I read you right.
I used to tell people who might be pressed for time, or on the road or whatever, to change just the filter and top up the oil
until they got around to the oil change.

I'd change a filter without changing the oil but never change the oil without changing the filter. :)
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:36 01/27/15)
I agree, if I read you right.
I used to tell people who might be pressed for time, or on the road or whatever, to change just the filter and top up the oil
until they got around to the oil change.

I'd change a filter without changing the oil but never change the oil without changing the filter. :)

My primary intent was yanking Jesse's chain ;-)

I was definitely not suggesting a filter change with makeup oil is a suitable substitute for an oil change. I was suggesting that modern oils have a significantly longer service life than a modern oil filter. If you are using an extended (10K+) OCI as is common in many of today's vehicles it might be to your advantage to consider a filter change at 5K. My two newest cars make that very easy to do - raise the hood, unscrew the oil filter cap that is on the top right corner of the engine, and replace the $5 cartridge that is inside the housing. Changing the oil is another $55 and a ride on the lift.....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 23:13:21 01/26/15)
(quoted from post at 21:06:37 01/26/15) Do you always change the oil filter with the old oil? I didn't have that many hours on the tractors this year and I while I will change the oil, is a filter change necessary?

Filter systems have a bypass built into them. The best filters go to bypass at about 8 hours. When you change oil the fresh oil breaks up some of the deposits which in turn are caught by the filter. So yes, change the filter. Pretty cheap "insurance".

Rick

If I am not mistaken , full synthetic oils hold deposits in suspension , or at least far superior to premium conventional oils .

I purchased (less than a month ago) 5qt jugs of Walmart brand (super tech) full synthetic 5w-30 for under $18 . Bought them online and they were sitting there waiting for me the next day .( for my car & trucks , not N's )

I don't know what full synthetic would do in a old dirty N motor as far as breaking up the hard layer of sludge and sucking it through the pump . The way the baffles are you are not going to soak and slosh it out without removing the pan ???
 

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