Pivot pin question please?

gwstang

Well-known Member
On my '52 8N sidemount. While I have the engine out, I need to replace the center pivot pin. It is very floppy and the bushing in the front has split open pretty wide (spacer?). There are two large washers on the back side, Are they supposed to be there? I need to know before ordering, Do I need the pivot pin and the spacer they sell on here? Is that all I need?

I already got the bolt out (I have an impact wrench from hell for such as this...lol). I soaked the pin with PB Blaster.
 

Are you referring to pn 3027. If so manual list's three spacers. I could not fit three in when I replaced mine. Two spacers was best I could do.
mvphoto15309.jpg
 

This exploded view is titled 1948 to '53.
So is this all applicable to my Jube's pin assembly as well?
 
(quoted from post at 16:25:40 01/22/15)
This exploded view is titled 1948 to '53.
So is this all applicable to my Jube's pin assembly as well?

It came from my MASTER PARTS MANUAL that includes years 39-53. I am not familiar with the Jubilee. Is that all so considered the model NAA? If so the the exploded view is the same but the parts listed are different for the pin assy.


mvphoto15312.jpg
 

Would it hurt anything to stick a piece of pipe, that is small enough to go inside, and whack the pin out toward the front? I sprayed it down several times and it ain't budging!
 

Maybe you have one of those mega-rare '53 8N's that I see on Craigslist occasionally. :shock:
 

At the bottom of the exploded view it says '48 to '53 . . .
which seems strange because a '54 would be identical to my Jube as well.

So the exploded view is probably supposed to read:
1948 to 1952 INCLUSIVE.
 
You do not need to replace p/n's 3027 or 3024. They are spacers that come into play if you extend the front wheel base. Just put them back in the same place you took them from.

You do need to replace the pin, p/n 3126 & the bushing, p/n 3039.

The front flange on the pin is a teardrop shape. After you've removed the retaining bolt, use your drift on the side of the flange down low (narrow end of the teardrop)and your BFH to drive the flange toward the opposite side. This turns the pin in the hole and breaks the rust bond. Then whack it the other direction, apply some penetrating oil, and knock it out from the back. Breaking that rust bond before hammering it out makes the job much easier.

Save the hold pin & make a hi-tech "pivot pin removal tool" as in the picture.
TractorPivotPin-1.jpg

DSC02439.jpg

75 Tips
 

..."After you've removed the retaining bolt, use your drift on the side of the flange down low (narrow end of the teardrop)and your BFH to drive the flange toward the opposite side. This turns the pin in the hole and breaks the rust bond. "...


Thanks Bruce. I did try that and nothing happened. I'll try that some more tomorrow. That thing is very stubborn. Just hope I don't pull a three stooges and miss the drift for my hand...whoooppp whooop whooop! :oops:
 
Thats a good idea. If you have access to a heating torch, get it hot to burn the rust and dirt out of there before you hit it.
 

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