connecting rod bushings

trblshtr

New User
I am in the process of rebuilding the engine on my 9N and ran into something I think is strange.
The bushings that came in the kit for the piston to crank rod are to thick. I called and they said the had to be honed or machine to fit properly. Is this normal? everything else fit's?
 
Do you mean the rod bearings?? They do come in more the none size. Like standard as in what was factory. The 10, 20 and 30 over so you have to have what is needed as per what has be done to the crank shaft
 
(quoted from post at 15:06:07 01/09/15) I am in the process of rebuilding the engine on my 9N and ran into something I think is strange.
The bushings that came in the kit for the piston to crank rod are to thick. I called and they said the had to be honed or machine to fit properly. Is this normal? everything else fit's?

Sorry no, I am talking about where the rod connects to the pist


The pin fits the piston but when I installed the new bushings into the connecting rod the pin will not fit into the rod..
 
Thank's.
Do you know where I can get a honing tool as I want to do it all myself, and as you already know this is my first rebuild... and first tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 18:58:31 01/09/15) Thank's.
Do you know where I can get a honing tool as I want to do it all myself, and as you already know this is my first rebuild... and first tractor.

First rebuild for sure. Take them to an automotive machine shop that can do it correctly and let them hookup the pistons and rods for you. You might also want to ask them to check the condition of the big ends while they have them.....

TOH
 
It's not a do-it-yourself thing. It needs to be done on a Sunnen hone at a machine shop. Some guys try to use a brake hone but they end up with the bushing shaped like an hourglass and you can't keep it square. Better to leave to old ones in there than to size them with a brake hone or sandpaper flapper.
 
Thank's for the help. this tractor was rebuilt and only used a couple of hours then parked for years. when it was cranked up it did some damage to the rings and I was only going to have rings replaced but decide to replace the sleeves, pistons, rings and valve assembly. Sleeves are in, valves lapped and installed. the crank looks great (used plastiguage)

Are you the same oldhokie that I read about who built a sleeve puller?
 
(quoted from post at 19:30:32 01/09/15) Thank's for the help. this tractor was rebuilt and only used a couple of hours then parked for years. when it was cranked up it did some damage to the rings and I was only going to have rings replaced but decide to replace the sleeves, pistons, rings and valve assembly. Sleeves are in, valves lapped and installed. the crank looks great (used plastiguage)

Are you the same oldhokie that I read about who built a sleeve puller?

C'est moi ;-)

TOH
 
When you take the rods in to a shop, take the pins and pistons in too. Then they can fit them properly. Clearance is from one to three ten-thousands.
 
(quoted from post at 20:09:57 01/09/15) When you take the rods in to a shop, take the pins and pistons in too. Then they can fit them properly. Clearance is from one to three ten-thousands.
Thank you to all for the help, my 9n rebuild is complete and she runs great! No more smoke and lots of power.
 

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