Key switch would = ign switch if so none of the aftmkt ign work very long I put in toggle switches.
 
I had a 4 terminal ignition switch changed it back to a 2 terminal. It won't start with the key off and won't stop the engine when you turn off the key. I'm not very clear because I'm a little new to this stuff
 
(quoted from post at 13:20:09 01/08/15) I had a 4 terminal ignition switch changed it back to a 2 terminal. It won't start with the key off and won't stop the engine when you turn off the key. I'm not very clear because I'm a little new to this stuff

Your alt is feeding back thru the new P.O.S. switch... Go back to your old switch and wire the alt to excite on the ACC post of the switch life will B good...

If you want to keep your new troublesome P.O.S. switch search 10si are excite....
 

Since you had to keep the key turned, thinking you had the ignition wire hooked up to the starter lug on the switch which would be wrong.
 
" I put in toggle switches. "

They will work fine until your pants cuff catches it or the grand kids jump on the tractor. Then, tip # 38 will be in effect.

NAPA sells a BF key switch that fits the N's & will last forever, p/n KS6600.
75 Tips
 
If you want to keep the new switch, all you need to do is add
a diode (1N5408 or similar) in the excite wire to the alternator.
Small marker lamp would probably do it too.
Google "wiring diagrams by JMOR" for the full picture.
 
I agree with hobo. go back to the 4 pole switch, and simply just wire it correctly this time.

one contact is incoming power, one contact is spring loaded start, one contact is on+run, and another contact is accy.

#1 excite wire to alt from accy.

coil to on/run

don't use spring loaded start.

incoming power to the only other lug.
 
Mine are recessed and protrude less then the key, grd on battery is cut and neutral thumb button is still incorporated. Dell took his a step further and uses marine toggles. Thanks for the heads up and I have read your 75 tips and I use to troubleshoot like most guys just replace parts till it ran but your 75 tips got me to do it correctly.
 
got one of the Napa switches recommended by Bruce.The back looks really big.Haven't tried fitting it to tractor yet.Pricey at $34,but worth it if not junk.
 
I put back in the 4 terminal ignition switch wired her up and is running great. Thanks for that help. Now I seem to have a lot of oil coming out of the cotter pin hole underneath what seal is that may I ask.
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:29 01/09/15) I put back in the 4 terminal ignition switch wired her up and is running great. Thanks for that help. Now I seem to have a lot of oil coming out of the cotter pin hole underneath what seal is that may I ask.
hat would be the rear main seal or transmission input shaft seal.
 
phil........oh you mean the starter Bendix spare parts storage chamber? There should be TWO jingle-jangle cotter keys. The cotter keys kept the tranny drains OPEN from DUST/MUD. In the old days, there was a lotta dust generated from weed control using "sweeps" (V-blades) to cut the weeds off just below the top of the soil. Now they use "sprays" fer weed control. ......generally thats the tranny input seal. CAUTION: its eazy fer eager nuebies to OVERFILL the 5-gal hydro-tranny chamber. Fill is up by the tranny shifter. The original spec was 90wt gear oil but Ford now specs: M2C-134D. (about 60wt engine oil) Tractor hydraulics will run just fine on 4-1/2 gals. Others claim N-Tractors drip oil to mark their spot like dogs.

Bottom line, unless yer sphincterly challenged, just don't over fill yer tranny. Simple, eh? .......oily Dell
 

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