Is There a better Switch

This message is a reply to an archived post by Kevin in MN on July 29, 2014 at 18:50:55.
The original subject was "Re: Is There a better Switch".

But is it waterproof? That's I think what the whole problem is
with the aftermarket replacement swtiches on the market now -
they just aren't intended to be left out to the weather all the
time. When mine goes I will probably replace it with a
waterproof marine switch.

Though the generic universal replacement switch that was on
my 8n when I bought it has lasted 30+ years, as long as I
remember to blast it out with CR every year, and give the key a
little extra jiggle when I turn it on to set the contacts. But then
the generics were still made in the USA in those days, and
probably a lot better than the ones sold now.

It isn't just the moisture getting into switches and other electrical components, it's the moisture combined with dust and dirt and electricity that ruins switches and other parts.

If you tear into a failed switch, likely it'll be messed up with green crap from electrolysis caused by electricity flowing though moisture and dirt between copper contacts in the switch.

For my equipment that has to sit outside, I disconnect the battery after EVERY use, or install a battery disconnect switch where it is shielded from rain.

You would be surprised how many problems that eliminates.

I have a habit of shrink wrapping all electrical connections that are exposed to any weather.
I had some 1 inch shrink wrap tubing and put it around the key switch barrel extending over the wire about an inch. Instant weather proofing.

If I read you right Dell uses Marine toggles. He lives in the rain forest.

Greywolf,

Great idea for moisture-proofing.
I still have original off/on switches in my Jube with original key, in my '51 Chev and my '54 International. I stick the Amsoil MP wand into the key slot give them a spray once every year. NEVER gets gummy, cleans and protects against future corrosion and lightly lubricates. The action of the key afterwards makes the benefit immediately obvious.

Didn't you say you were going to try some?

Cheers,
T

Yes I did. Picked up a can at an Advance Auto that opened up in my town a few weeks back. WD-40 is a totally different animal which doesn't compare. I sprayed down the internals of a IH 240 starter. Worked wonders. Used it on my sons ATV's diff and chains

Amsoil reminds me of a Lubricant cleaner spray that my father used to bring home about 35 years ago from when he worked in the engine rooms in the NYC building. He used it when he would rebuild the waste ejection pumps and motors.

I cant remember the name of the stuff but I think there is still a can or two in his basement. I do remember that he wouldn't let us use it and waste it. He kept it locked up.

Thanks for getting me hooked.

You also have to consider the amount of current flowing through the switch. If you are going to have high current most aftermarket switches will fail rather fast. Best option when switching higher current is to use a relay rated for the current you need to switch. And as other guys have said, always use heat shrink, wire wrap, and heat shrink connectors when wiring anything that will be on an engine or used in the elements...
Jeff

Well, THAT's good to hear! You're a rare bird.

You wrote:
"Worked wonders. Used it on my sons ATV's diff and chains."

A friend of mine has about 10 motorcycles and he got me to pick him up a can of the Heavy duty MP, which I've never tried.
I'll have to ask him how it turned out if he tried it on chains.
I turned West Point Cycle in Vancouver onto reg MP and they were overjoyed. On a chain, as you've probably found out, the non-wet film doesn't attract road dust.

It's so light which is great for a lot of things but it stays on stuff like wheel lugs as well. Try it on your tractor link balls.
later when you spray them again, it cleans them off instantly and leaves a new protective coating behind.

Spray your saw blades and other tools with it as well.
So many uses, like those little emergency lever shafts on my tractor, throttle and all linkage, friction disk, starter button . . . everything that moves
. . . and the beauty is that even with repeated use, you never get a messy oily buildup. The second time you spray, it cleans off your previous coating.

"Amsoil reminds me of a Lubricant cleaner spray that my father used to bring home about 35 years ago from when he worked in the engine rooms in the NYC building. He used it when he would rebuild the waste ejection pumps and motors."
I cant remember the name of the stuff but I think there is still a can or two in his basement."

Have a look and do a comparison.

"Thanks for getting me hooked."

My pleasure; thanks for the receptivity!

Terry

P.S.
It's to easy to waste the stuff by spraying rusty things right down to steel, or generally using it as a super solvent cleaner. So I soak stuff lightly, wipe the oil and rust off onto a rag . . . compressed air it maybe, then apply a new light coat.

I use can opener to cut out the bottoms of the spray cans to save the last bit to a small jar as a soaker, piston unfreezer, ring unsticker or whatever. . . not that I plan on messing with old engines anymore, there's music to be played.

Terry this was the lub that I was talking about. Dad still had some sitting way back on his tool bench. Doesn't have a date code on it but know that it was sitting there for a good 35 yrs. Can is 3/4 full and it still has pressure to spray.
I used it last night to soak some 1 inch pins from a backhoe bucket I picked up. Sprayed them again today and able to bang them out. Pins were giving my son the fits last week and he gave up.

Researched the lub and seems like you can still buy it. The can looks all different. Seems like its an industrial spray.

Greywolf,

Funny. . . "State Pen" on the label

Hey, too bad you didn't spray one pin with each lube.

I wouldn't be surprised if that State Pen was very toxic to smell and breathe, like "Chrysler Exhaust heat Control Valve Penetrating fluid" that I bought 2 quart cans of over time . . . YEP, [b:8c80f482df]all[/b:8c80f482df] of that was written on the label. I think the product is still happening but under the Mopar name, but I can't say the formula is the same.

It cut rust as quickly as MP but if you used it, then you needed to use a chaser afterwards (MP being the perfect cleaner/chaser) because that stuff oxidized and got gummy if left on.

I still have some in a class jar. One time I put a heavily corroded thick brass belt buckle with a raised and intricate eagle on it, into that liquid overnight. The next morning without brushing it or anything, it looked like it had been glass bead cleaned. found the buckle under the seat of a '53 Chev I dragged home.

Anyway, it appears your dad was onto a winner.
Spray something and see if it gets tacky over time or not.
Some products like these are strictly penetrator/cleaner fluids
but not a great protectant oil as well like MP is.

Cheers,
TT