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Early 9N axle housing question

D

David_V

Member
My early 9N, #7701, has something I've not seen on anything else. The part of the axle housing where the fenders attach, where those two long bolts go through. On both my axle housings the part is solid, you cannot see the bolts. On everything else I've seen there are two flanges, top and bottom, and you can see the bolt between the flanges.

Is that something on early 9N's or could they be from a different tractor?

Here's a picture. Yes, I know the colors are all wrong. This is not a factory restore but just a learning experience. Boy, there's a lot to learn.

mvphoto14713.jpg
 
"Is that something on early 9N's "

Yes. Can be difficult to get the bolts out. When
you replace them put some never seize on them.
 
Your right about that! When I tore down my early 9N 3 of the bolts came out easy the forth took me a whole day of heating and beating to get it out and I still cracked the housing where the bolt goes through. They went back in with a abundant coating of anti seize.
 
Thanks. That's what I planned on. Would regular grease do, or should I find this anti-seize stuff? The old bolts came out, barely, and mostly in flakes.
 
(quoted from post at 18:56:30 01/07/15) It is correct, the first about 45,000 9N tractors were made that way.
Click to expand...
hanks. I was wondering about that. Mine is the only one I've seen. The guy at the local tractor store has never seen one, but then he has never seen the fenders with two ribs either.
 
(quoted from post at 19:10:43 01/07/15)
Iffin its water prof grease it will work... Any lube will work unless you plan on a re-do in 2065...
Click to expand...
'll use grease then. I'll be dead by 2065. It's like buying a "40 year roof" when you're 60.
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:14 01/07/15)
(quoted from post at 19:10:43 01/07/15)
Iffin its water prof grease it will work... Any lube will work unless you plan on a re-do in 2065...
Click to expand...
'll use grease then. I'll be dead by 2065. It's like buying a "40 year roof" when you're 60.
Click to expand...
Be kind to the next guy. That tractor will survive long enough to belong to a "next guy".
Anti-seize/never-seize whatever they call it in your area is $1/packet. $8 for a whole can.
Might not be as critical depending on where you live, but here in the salt belt, rust kills.
 
Be kind to the next guy. That tractor will survive long enough to belong to a "next guy".
Anti-seize/never-seize whatever they call it in your area is $1/packet. $8 for a whole can.
Might not be as critical depending on where you live, but here in the salt belt, rust kills.
Click to expand...
I might as well buy the whole can. There are probably a few other places on the tractor that could use some.
 
2 rib fenders were only on 1939 and very early
1940 tractors. I would like to see more pictures
of your tractor. The dash and the hood and the
front axle.
 
(quoted from post at 06:44:51 01/08/15) 2 rib fenders were only on 1939 and very early
1940 tractors. I would like to see more pictures
of your tractor. The dash and the hood and the
front axle.
Click to expand...
t appears to me that all but the axles and steering wheel are original to an early 1939. I'm not sure about the dash though. The front has the front axle bushing without the flange and the steering arm without the key.

I think it has been rolled, backwards, though. The steering wheel has only three spokes (anyone want to part with a 4 spoke) and the loop on the rear end housing where the rocker attaches has been welded back on. There is also a crack on the block that goes from the starter all the way around to the other side. It's an old weld that has no cracks, so I'm not too worried about that. All that makes me think it's been rolled.

Also, the freeze plug on the block is below and to the left of the oil filter.

All that fits with the 7701 serial number.
 
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