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found one problem with 2 dead cyl. on 8n

P

pixer

Member
found inlet valve on cyl. 2 stuck open, working on it pb and atf, using tie rod separator on each side of lifter and smack witgh hammer and valve snaps down but wont go down with spring only, seems to be getting easier, less of a tgap to seat. Is there anything better than pb blaste and atf to dissolve whatever is holding the valve from seating?.If i get it freed up what can i do to clean this engine up other than change oil regularly, additives?. cylinder 1 had no compression also just a blip those valves free, problems in cyl. two shouldnt affect cylinder one, i may nato have hade good connection on compression checking equipt.. anything else i could be doing to free up stuck valve other than what i am doing?
 
Forget the PB and use ATF only or ATF and acetone mixed 5-/50. If you can cap off the intake manifold area and then fill with ATF that will help a whole lot since it can then soak
 
Old, Is that ATF good just for carbon? or will it work on rust too? Just picked up a little scooter. I think rust is it's biggest problem.
a177730.jpg
 
Carbon rust either one does not hold up well to a good soaking of ATF. I use it to clean up guns that have rusted and use it on my guns when I put them up after deer season.
As for the scooter what is it?? I mess with a lot of motorcycles also
 
Still trying to ID it. PO father bought at auction 40 years ago. He had no idea what it is. I thought at first it was a Mutt. I now think it's all original. May be a Cushman or something. I'll see if the Cushman board can ID it. Think it is missing the engine cover. Guy picked it up with a Front end loader. At least two sets of chain drives and three belts. Maybe more. Heck of a motor. Has a starter and generator. Has a distributor that has a metal cap held on like distributor cap on a car to get to the points. Has a round can coil. The voltage regulator said Chrysler Motors. Other than that there are no marking or numbers to ID it. Gave him $200 for it. Looks cool. Don't know if I'll ever get it running. Nice Yard art if noting else.
3 wheeler
 
Thanks for the update.
And let us know what you find as you dig into it further.
Ultimately, it's not that big a deal to pull the head and work the valves from both ends.
Inspect the bores, etc while you are in there.
Your previous post was an interesting one. Some guys pegged it as valves. Others said valves were very unlikely.
Assuming of course you did the PT at least halfway right, it isn't very often you get ZERO compression.
You could have bad or busted rings, bores completely worn out AND a blown head gasket and still get some kind of a reading on a pressure test.
Stuck valves are about the only thing that will give you ZERO.
 
Use an air impact hammer with a flattened bit and low air pressure to gently hammer upwards on the valve bottom end.
Add some lead substitute to the fuel. Valves never seized back when lead was in all the fuels.

Zane
 
it was intake valve 2 cylinder, put atf/acetone mix on it, put tie rod tool on lifter and tapped with hammer and it would snap down then it made a complete cycle , no comp. on no 1 was faulty compression testing equipt. loose connection. tractor now running on all four, idles necly. going to change oil/filter and add lead to gas, any other additives that would keep valve from siezing?
 
That lead stuff is just a snake oil and does not even have any lead in it. Best thing I have found is a quart of ATF to 5 gal of gas. Keep things lubed and clean
 
Very true. Zero compression has a short list. I have seen holes in pistons, broken timing belts on interference engines bend a bunch of valves. That's usually when people look at you with a blank stare as they realize their car is totaled because of a timing belt.
 
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