Belt replacement

waldo11 · Dec 26, 2014

Hello all. Hope Christmas was merry and New Year's will treat you right.
I have an 8n with the live hydraulics off the front of the crank. I need to change the belt and before I figure it out I feel it would be smart to ask the wealth of knowledge on here.
Looks like I just need to undo the four bolts on the coupler on the pump input shaft that is located between the front of the radiator shroud and the pump. Then either the shaft will move out of the front of the crank or I will have to snake the belt through somehow.
Any tips?

Ultradog MN · Dec 26, 2014

There are many different configurations of pump brackets so a little difficult to advise from here.
Generally, if you loosen the pump from whatever it's bolted to you can pull it forward enough to slide the splined shaft out of the drive on the engine pully and snake the belt in. If both suction lines are hoses it's not too bad. If either the pressure or return are plumbed with hard lines you'll have to open them up to get the pump forward.
While you are in there check your splines for excessive wear. They do wear out and you'd be mad if you had to go back in there.

old · Dec 26, 2014

Depending on if you have the spline type shaft or the screw in as to how hard it can be. Some spline type leave almost enough run to do the job as in you have to hold your mouth just right if your lucky. On the spline type you unbolt the pump and the shaft. Lift or pull the pump out of the way then pull the shaft out.

Royse · Dec 26, 2014

I have to unbolt the pump and move it forward as the other guys
have said. Mine is a splined shaft type.
One thing I would add - while you have the belt off check your
water pump for play. If it goes on its own it can eat the radiator.
It's not a bad job to replace, if needed, while you have the belt off.

Bob · Dec 26, 2014

Some guys run "segmented belts" so as not to have to disassemble the pump drive.

(I have used segmented belts on several machines, but never on an 8N.)

I believe McMaster, and several other on-line places hace them, as likely would a local industrial "bearings and drives" sort of business.
ONE type of segmented belt.

Royse · Dec 26, 2014

Any lasting opinion of those segmented belts Bob?
A tractor I recently acquired has one on it, but I haven't
got the tractor running yet so I have no idea how it will work.

Bob · Dec 27, 2014

They are darned tough.

Dean · Dec 27, 2014

Depends upon the type of pump drive shaft and drive shaft pulley adapter.

Do not use a segmented belt.

Of course you must remove the front pump and shaft.

Having done so, depending upon the type of pump drive adapter on your crankshaft pulley, you may have room to get the new belt between the pulley and front axle but this is unlikely.

Support the front of the tractor with a jack and suitable blocks beneath the oil pan to remove the load from the front axle.

Remove the radius rod socket caps and move the front axle as far forward as possible. Check for interference between the axle and ratiator bottom tank to prevent damage to the radiator.

If insufficient clearance to R & R the belt remains, back out the bolts attaching the front axle support to the engine several turns and move the front axle support forward to gain adequate clearance.

Yse a high quality US made belt so that you will not need to do this for another 20 years.

Dean

Caryc · Dec 27, 2014

(quoted from post at 14:25:15 12/27/14) Depends upon the type of pump drive shaft and drive shaft pulley adapter.

Do not use a segmented belt.

Of course you must remove the front pump and shaft.

Having done so, depending upon the type of pump drive adapter on your crankshaft pulley, you may have room to get the new belt between the pulley and front axle but this is unlikely.

Support the front of the tractor with a jack and suitable blocks beneath the oil pan to remove the load from the front axle.

Remove the radius rod socket caps and move the front axle as far forward as possible. Check for interference between the axle and ratiator bottom tank to prevent damage to the radiator.

If insufficient clearance to R & R the belt remains, back out the bolts attaching the front axle support to the engine several turns and move the front axle support forward to gain adequate clearance.

Yse a high quality US made belt so that you will not need to do this for another 20 years.

Dean

I'm just curious. You said "don't use a segmented belt" but you give no reason why. Would you please expound?

When I purchased my 14" bandsaw I purchased a segmented belt and bearing guides for it. Mainly I purchased the segmented belt because I'd heard they get rid of vibration.

They were right. It took all the vibration out of the saw and I can cut .012" slices off the side of a 4 X 4 with it.

Dean · Dec 28, 2014

First, let's be certain that we are talking about the same thing.

By segmented belt, I mean a belt of variable length that can be lengthened or shortened by adding/removing segments.

Such belts can be easily installed in applications where there is insufficient clearance to install an endless belt.

These "segmented" belts are short lived and intended only for temporary replacement in low torque applications.

Dean

Caryc · Dec 28, 2014

(quoted from post at 06:55:56 12/28/14) First, let's be certain that we are talking about the same thing.

[color=red:5319d643b3][b:5319d643b3]By segmented belt, I mean a belt of variable length that can be lengthened or shortened by adding/removing segments[/b:5319d643b3].[/color:5319d643b3]

Such belts can be easily installed in applications where there is insufficient clearance to install an endless belt.

These "segmented" belts are short lived and intended only for temporary replacement in low torque applications.

Dean

Exactly what I'm talking about. You wouldn't think it to look at them but they do reduce vibration. I've had the same one on my bandsaw for ten years. I guess on a regular drive belt they don't take the trouble to balance them. I studied the old belt on my bandsaw carefully and could not figure out why it was causing the vibration. That vibration that you can't see can not be good for the water pump on a tractor.

When you buy a segmented belt there is nothing in the instructions about temporary use. I've heard others here say they use one on their tractor.

skips8n · Dec 28, 2014

I have a "segmented belt" that"s been on my 8N now for a year. This fall I did have to remove one link to tighten it a bit, but no issues with it thus far. The belt is made by Gates, and I special ordered from NAPA. I did not have time to remove the FEL pump etc, but if you want to use a regular fan belt then go for it.

Belt replacement

waldo11

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Ultradog MN

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old

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Royse

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Bob

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Royse

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Bob

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Dean

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Caryc

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Dean

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Caryc

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skips8n

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