fluid in/out of rears

jf · Dec 21, 2014

Is there a way to clean the calcium residue off the rims after I drain the fluid out. The rims are salvageable if caught soon. Thanks

kylemorley · Dec 21, 2014

Hot water and detergent and more hot water, Though you may never get it all off as salt has a way of getting into the tiniest cracks and pores, and, once in, never coming out.

There are products sold a salt neutralizers but chemists tell me such a thing is not possible. There are also products available at boat and dive shops and on the net, like Salt-X that claim to make salt wash off more completely and might be worth trying.

jobob · Dec 21, 2014

I always sandblast,prime,and paint;seems to work great.Recommed using high quality materials.

NoNewParts · Dec 21, 2014

just one of those jobs that takes lots of soap and water and lots of elbow grease.....then do it again.

I suppose since salt is water soluble, you could throw the cleaned rim in the pond for a few days

Dean · Dec 21, 2014

No. There is no fool proof way of doing so.

Scrub with detergent until your knuckels bleed.

Then sandblast until there is little or no metal left.

Then prime and paint with good quality paint (only after waiting until the rims stop rusting (note: This may never happen)).

Alternatively, never use CaCl.

Dean

Tall T · Dec 21, 2014

What kind of rim is it, Loop or Hat?

The reason I ask is because I learned something about my loaded tube tires. Before I drained them to unmount and restore, traces of fluid kept appearing on the rims and because of the spotty rust and rusty valve hole, I assumed I was leaking CaCl.

Wrong again!
The liquid was WATER and it was weeping out of the channels in my hat rims!

I know this because I put air in my removed tubes and painstakingly picked out all the rust flakes imbedded in the rubber and for a couple of weeks had them standing around holding air. Tubes and tires are now back on the tractor and they do not leak any air.

Therefore the liquid that I thought was Calcium Chloride was not.

Terry

kylemorley · Dec 21, 2014

Oh, another old trick is to rinse with distilled water, the theory being that distilled water, being completely void of minerals, will attract the salt .

Dehumidifier water would work great for the purpose being basically just slightly dirty distilled water, and plentiful and free.

Fuddy Duddy · Dec 21, 2014

"Then sandblast until there is little or no metal left.

Then prime and paint with good quality paint (only after waiting until the rims stop rusting (note: This may never happen)).

Alternatively, never use CaCl."

I'm a big believer in sand blasting. But you are not removing the metal. You are removing the rust. O'course the rust may have already removed most of the metal. You sand blast down to the white metal then they stop rusting till wet again. Not sure about a 'waiting period'.
I wonder if spray on bed liner might be the best thing to go back with?
If you have Top Hat rims you shouldn't use any CaCl. Maybe use it on loops as they can be had pretty cheap.

Tall T · Dec 21, 2014

(quoted from post at 21:22:37
If you have Top Hat rims you shouldn't use any CaCl. Maybe use it on loops as they can be had pretty cheap.

If you clean up the tube surface of the inside rim,
one can still have CaCl safe within tubes regardless of the rim style.

But I don't like it either, so I didn't save it; I just have air with an eye out for weights.

Top Hats!
I like that.

T

jf · Dec 24, 2014

So----
I guess when you figure the time involved/product needed and still will not get it cleaned---looks like a new rim is the way to go to be done with it. I don't need another project to worry if it will hold after all the other work and paint is done. Thanks all and Merry Christmas.

fluid in/out of rears

jf

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kylemorley

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jobob

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NoNewParts

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Dean

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Tall T

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kylemorley

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Fuddy Duddy

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Tall T

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jf

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