manifold replacement

pixer

Member
im about to replace a manifold, it looks pretty straightforward are there any pitfalls i should watch for, is there a tightning sequence what is the torque the shop manual doesnt say much or i missed it. its on an 52 8n side mount. gasket goes on dry i assume.
 
pixer......start in center of manifold, just be certain to use BRASS nutz on yer manifold studs with anti-seize. 27ft/lbs. Re-torque after about 1/2-hr of runnin'........Dell
 
One thing I was taught by an old mechanic years ago was never, ever turn a carburator upside down. Any gunk in the float bowel will get dumped around and possibly get in your ports and jets.
He said when you take a carb off always prop it up, out of the way so it stays upright.
So that's what I always do.
 
(quoted from post at 20:07:39 12/17/14) One thing I was taught by an old mechanic years ago was never, ever turn a carburator upside down. Any gunk in the float bowel will get dumped around and possibly get in your ports and jets.
He said when you take a carb off always prop it up, out of the way so it stays upright.
So that's what I always do.

Good advice! I bet a carb that was rebuilt a year ago could have adequate rust in the bowl to plug it up good.
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:09 12/18/14) Pay attention to the muffler clamp. There is a top and a bottom to it, I can't remember which is which.


mvphoto14102.jpg
 
N-Series exhaust manifold is fastened with 7/16-20 brass nuts using steel lockwashers, torqued at 27 ft/lbs. Original parts are manifold studs -studs are designed with one end a coarse thread and one end a fine thread. RULE #1 -Coarse Threads always thread into cast iron, Fine Threads accept fine thread fastener. Some guys have switched to bolts, (not wise) especially at the #4 ports -the one nearest the dash, thinking it will help seal any leaks better. The milled mounting surface on the manifold will always burn out first at the #4 port because that is where the exhaust vents to the muffler and gets the hottest. It is best to just replace the manifold with a new one and be sure to put new gaskets on too. In my opinion, it is not worth the hassle to remove the carb, air cleaner tube, and the manifold just to apply a 'band-aid'. Do it right the first time. Use a new muffler clamp and hardware as well. The muffler clamp has two parts -a small piece and a large piece -THE LARGE PIECE goes on the BOTTOM. Best to use brass nuts here too. Once the muffler gets hot and cools, wet from rain and snow, steel nuts will work harden and then when you need to remove them they might be a bit stubborn. The carb gets a gasket too between the manifold milled intake surface and the carb top surface. Don't use any gasket sealer.

Tim 'PloughNman' Daley(MI)
 
The original manifold part number is 9N-9425 and is still a good number...

Sometimes when removing old nuts the stud comes out with it and you may get sprayed with coolant as the water jacket is just behind the stud holes. If it is evident the stud is coming off with the nut, stop and drain some coolant out of the radiator.

Tim
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top