Oil Pan And Main Seals

DavidBond

New User
8n, side........Had the motor out to repair the oil pick up and clutch. At this time I replaced leaking crank seals and now when I tighten down the oil pan I can hardly turn over the motor. 12 volt battery will not even do it. Did I do something wrong. Doesn't seem possible, pretty easy job with the motor out. This is just the rear seal I haven't even put the front pulley on yet. So will this go away if I can get it started or will it burn up the seals. What to do.
 
Guess we have to know your technique. Some soak
the seal in oil overnight and then install
them. The last two I have, I installed them dry
and used a large socket to make sure the were
fully inserted. Then I trimmed them flush. I
liberally coated the journal and the seal with
assembly lube. I did not overlap the gasket
(this is debateable). I was rebuilding an
engine so I had been turning the engine over
after each bearing had been installed. The
engine was noticeably harder to turn after
installing the rear seal and pan, but I could
still turn it.
 
Most folks say cut the rope seal ends a tiny bit
proud---maybe 1/16--I did--most folks say overlap
the gasket--I didn't--overlapping it just don't
seem right to me----But an every day mechanic on
here recommended a dab of Permatex Ultra Grey on
the ends where the seal and pan gasket ends meet
and I did that -- I have had no leak-did this at
least 4-5 yrs ago--Free info: I also installed the
one piece seal on the front..Disclaimer: I am no
mechanic and do not claim to be--have tinkered all
my life till now-can't do a fraction of what I use
to do--don't go looking for things to do
either..Grew up on an N--most of what I know to do
to an N came from right here on this forum. Most
is solid info--If it is iffy it usually fades
away..won't give any examples but other long
timers on the forum know a few examples like I
do...and-----have a great day..
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:14 12/07/14) 8n, side........Had the motor out to repair the oil pick up and clutch. At this time I replaced leaking crank seals and now when I tighten down the oil pan I can hardly turn over the motor. 12 volt battery will not even do it. Did I do something wrong. Doesn't seem possible, pretty easy job with the motor out. This is just the rear seal I haven't even put the front pulley on yet. So will this go away if I can get it started or will it burn up the seals. What to do.

For the ones that don't overlap the gasket... You have balls of steel... Its possible to get away with it if you leave the seal proud enoufh are somehow seal the gap that's left buy eliminating the gasket...

The seal set up on a N is a strange animal :evil: China has it all wrong and I have not found a cure for it... Personal I don't see a reason to leave it proud are cut the gasket YMMV... If it were a soft seal (like its spose to be then ell yel) what you left proud would compress the seal into the grove. Its not gonna happen on the seal provided...

Replacing the seals does put allot of drag on the crank the one I checked it took 90 ft lbs to bar it over with the head off.... I don't like it and don't know how to get around it... Maybe you can piece together enuff tips and it all works out for ya...
 
HB dont pick on china for parts problems they are
employed by corp America who dumped on the
America worker for more money. Always follow the
money. As for the seals I soak them in MMO for 3
days, cut a hair proud, a tad of black sealant on
the bitter ends and to "seal" the deal I offset
the seam on the seal about 15 degrees from the
seam of the block and pan. Never had a leak and
the crank turns fine, you can take that formula
to the bank.
 
Are you tuning the motor with a hand crank or by
hand on belt or pulley? Dose that 12V battery
have a full charge.
 
(quoted from post at 02:17:14 12/08/14) HB dont pick on china for parts problems they are
employed by corp America who dumped on the
America worker for more money. Always follow the
money. As for the seals I soak them in MMO for 3
days, cut a hair proud, a tad of black sealant on
the bitter ends and to "seal" the deal I offset
the seam on the seal about 15 degrees from the
seam of the block and pan. Never had a leak and
the crank turns fine, you can take that formula
to the bank.

I have never stagger a seal on anything and don't plan on it... I have soaked them for weeks it never made a difference... I install them dry with lube on the face...

There is no reasoning as to why the seal is hard as a brick it should be a graphite impregnated rope seal...

ITS just a strange animal if it works for ya life is good...
 
OK I'm convinced-----next one I do(98% sure won't be
another) I will cut rope seals flush and overlap pan
gasket..Hobo do you still endorse the one piece
front seal or not??I used one on my Dad's 2N several
yrs ago and far as I know still no leak..
 
I use a big socket that is same size as the
crank where it rides the seal and hammer it
down on the crank seal to flatten it out. I
always use oil after I do this then install the
pan.

The pan gasket is make to overlap the ends of
the seals. Wonder why they did that???? :O)

Works for me.

Zane
 
(quoted from post at 04:10:25 12/08/14) OK I'm convinced-----next one I do(98% sure won't be
another) I will cut rope seals flush and overlap pan
gasket..Hobo do you still endorse the one piece
front seal or not??I used one on my Dad's 2N several
yrs ago and far as I know still no leak..

Yes...
 

I encountered this same problem about three engines back, after following the Felpro instructions carefully. This was before internet days so I consulted a friend. He said that it was normal, just pull it over by hand for awhile. I did, it worked. Maybe a hundred or so revs with the 3/4 drive on the front pulley nut. I also make it a practice to test turn at various points along the way o make sure I don't get drag somewhere where I shouldn't.
 

I have looked at the fel-pro rear seal set (still have it on the shelf) ... It comes with two different sizes... One set I thought was too big and the other too small... Did you set come like this are was there only one size in the set... Both were the limp graphite impregnated rope...
 
(quoted from post at 06:13:49 12/08/14)
I have looked at the fel-pro rear seal set (still have it on the shelf) ... It comes with two different sizes... One set I thought was too big and the other too small... Did you set come like this are was there only one size in the set... Both were the limp graphite impregnated rope...
These were for an Oliver 70 and Ford 172s. I believe that the earlier ones were white limp rope and the most recent, a 172 was limp rope with graphite. I would have gotten the last one about four years ago for a Ford.
 

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