Ford 8n cuts when turning clockwise

HeyObie

Member
Strangest problem and its getting worse.

When I make a sharp clockwise turn, my 49 front mount 8n tries to cut out. When I go straight or counter clockwise, it recovers.

I have replaced the carb twice. I have checked the filter at the carb. I have detatched the fuel line at the carb and gas runs freely. Checked the gas cutoff filter and it is good.

I thought it might be an air problem at the air filter. Checked the oil and it is at the right level. I cleaned the filter last year.

Put in new points, condensor and rotor today. It runs great but hates clockwise turns.

Any thoughts appreciated
 
Also check the float tanks. One may be damaged or
have fuel in the tank. My 8N would flood out and
die when on a slope with the right side high. Tank
was partially caved in.
 
"I have replaced the carb twice."

Replaced it with what? New ones or rebuilt or different make?
Do you have a Marvel Schebler carb on it now?
If so, I'd tend to agree with Bruce.
Make sure the float level is set right and they're not rubbing.
 
I think I have bought both fromnnalert and they were new. About $140 each.

When I got the last one, I took it apart to check the floats according to the directions supplied. It looked good.

The floats can not be flooded because it is only a few days old, but the floats could be rubbing on the side. I will check it tomorrow.

Thanks guys
 
Did it do this with all three carbs?
Odds of that happening and being a carb problem are slim.
Still worth checking the floats I guess since its free to check.
 
Is it sputtering or just dying? In my mind I see it as electrical (if
it is truly "cutting out"). Is it front of side mount? Something is
wiggling somewhere.
 
From what I have been reading over the years from the experts on this board, while you are futzing with the carb, you are about 18 inches from the trouble. Frequent problem on 9-2-8N tractors with front mount dist. Look for a clean/shiny spot on top of axle & bottom of dist.

Your axle pivot pin/bushing is worn out. When turning right the axle moves, hits the dist cap/coil, & shorts out the ignition. When straight ahead or turning left it moves away from dist.
Just something else to check out.
HTH
Willie
 
I am no expert but I agree with Willie in mn I had the same thing happen, and It would break off the lower # 2 nipple on the cap as well. Well worth checking out.
 
Royse - happened on 2 new carbs. That is why I am leaning away from a float problem/gas problem.

notjustair - it is more than sputtering. I kind of acts like when you run out of gas. As soon as I straighten er out, we are running good. Downhill is worse than uphill.

Retired farmer, willie in MN, flembo - I will check out the wiring and the axle pin.

All great ideas. Getting close I can tell

Thanks,

Obie
 
I went out and checked the axle pin and it is in good shape. I checked every wire looking for something suspicious and came up empty.

I drove it around in clockwise circles and the problem occurs when I start to come up hill. Flat and down hill are OK. When I run at low RPM, there is no problem. When I run at a high rpm, it acts like it is not getting gas (or maybe too much).

It sounds like it stops firing on 3 or 4 cylinders and then recovers once I get past the uphill turn.

It just seems like fuel to me. Not sure what each screw on the carb is for but maybe I can adjust one of them. Fortunately, I have 2 new carbs to work with. The newest one I will leave alone and tweak the other to see what I learn.

I am going to pull a plug and see if it is rich or lean to figure which way to adjust the carb.

Go Ravens
 

" Not sure what each screw on the carb is for but maybe I can adjust one of them."

I think your time will be better spent adjusting the float. Based on the additional info you just provided ([i:88cbdb93eb]the problem occurs when I start to come up hill.[/i:88cbdb93eb]) it sounds more & more like the float is hanging in the bowl.

But if you insist on adjusting the carb........

Make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 – 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp.

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich.
If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms.

Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ½ turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ½ turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem.
 
Thank you Bruce. I will take your advice and play with the float first. Do you think I am flooding or starving?

Going to print this explanation and put it in my manual.

Thanks again
 

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