1940 9n starter

dose any one know what the stamped lettering is on the 1940s 9n starter is

v1vx1v






[/img]

here is a picture of the whole starter

****

(quoted from post at 00:22:29 11/25/14) Having starter trouble?
I'm wondering why your bendix is in the engage-the-flywheel position, when at rest on your bench. Shouldn't the drive part of your Bendix be in its retracted position, back against the spring
or does it depend on the flywheel throwing it back after starting?
That spiral gear is the place for non-oily lube.

Click to expand...

I was just wondering what the letters mean

but you are right the shaft will need some oil
the two pictures im sending now the first picture is the gear is away from the flywheel, spring is not compact(I believe)
second picture is the gear is in the fly wheel the spring is compact ( I believe )

In both photos, the gear is in contact with the flywheel ring gear.
When the starter is activated the starter pulls the bendix toward itself and the ring gear. It is then thrown by the flywheel and spring assist in the Bendix drive, back to the end of the armature shaft (covering the spiral gear) -- leaving space for the ring gear between the starter body and the Bendix gear.

You don't want oil on there. It will attract dust
and act as glue and/or sandpaper. Clean and dry.

The starter drive locks in that position when turned out.
When the engine starts and over-speeds the starter it retracts.
You can try to spin it back with a wire brush if you want.

Unfortunately, I cannot help with the lettering.

No oil. I spray the bendix down with brake cleaner and a touch of silicon spray on the spiral gear.

(reply to post at 20:25:26 11/24/14)

Click to expand...

I use a [b:e0ac8308d0]NON[/b:e0ac8308d0]-oily, very light but with good film strength
lubricant, that is not a graphite or a silicone, and that also has
incredible rust penetration . . . and so metal protection FROM rust as well.
That's why it is called Amsoil Metal Protector.
Try it and prove me wrong.

Forgot to mention, it never oxidizes and so it NEVER gets gummy or sticky like WD and other products do.

Even Powerlube by CRC, which is also a super rust penetrant, gets a little gummy over time. On the can of Powerlube they say,"Leaves a film of oil that remains stable over time" . . . meaning little or no oxidation. That's why I first bought it to try it, cause it sounded like they were proud of the oxidative stability.

I always have Powerlube around but Amsoil is thinner and lighter than Powerlube, which is super important where a Bendix spiral is concerned . AND the fact that it [b:e0ac8308d0]never[/b:e0ac8308d0] oxidizes, never gets gummy so it DOESN'T attract or pick up foreign particles. . .
to the extent that using a lubricant would obviously be self defeating.

I would never use Powerlube on a Bendix or anything other lube I can think of -- maybe Graphite, maybe silicone.

Further on down the road, another spray down with MP cleans off the previous film easily and after a little time to dry as the carrier evaporates and any excess is wiped away, your Bendix continues to slide well and true with LESS WEAR while it happily engages the ring gear. Sounds like a happy marriage to me.

Amsoil MP even dissolves the varnish left behind by oxidation
like on carb linkage where someone mistakenly uses WD. WD turns to glue in 6 months at room temperature, and so the extreme of engine heat really accelerates the WD meltdown.

Tall....You got me sold...gonna get me a can of AMSOIL this weekend. Got a perfect place to use it. My buddies bendix on his IH 240.

TX Pal.

(quoted from post at 11:14:31 11/25/14) You don't want oil on there. It will attract dust
and act as glue and/or sandpaper. Clean and dry.

The starter drive locks in that position when turned out.
When the engine starts and over-speeds the starter it retracts.
You can try to spin it back with a wire brush if you want.

Unfortunately, I cannot help with the lettering.

Click to expand...

Royse, is that even the correct bendix, to me it looks more like one for the later models.

Your claims for Amsoil MP are quite a bit more sweeping than it's manufacturer's. Reading about it on their site it sounds like just their version (though quite possibly an improved one) of WD40 and similar products. No mention of not oxidizing or gumming up that I could find. But if the stuff goes on as thin as you say, I'm sure it'll work fine since it this case less is better than more.

I would be inclined to use a dry film lube, that is to say, one where the carrier evaporates leaving a true dry lubricating film, rather than a very very thin sticky one.

My choice would be a dry moly such as CRC and others make. Moly has an affinity for steel, which makes it last much longer on steel than other dry lubes. Silicone is not a very good choice as it is not considered very effective for metal-on-metal. And many silicone sprays, even those labeled "100% silicone" actually leave an oily residue though this too is often too little to matter (or to do any good).

Greywolf,

You'll love it! If you have a gun or guns it will blow you away in that application as well. Way back when, I was selling an old friend of mine in Vancouver on it. He used to go -- and probably still does -- hunting for bighorn sheep in the BC rockies. He went to his gun rack, hands me a rifle and says, "Look at this!" The barrel of his gun was all sticky. I asked him what it was and he said it was WD. THAT was my very first, first hand experience of WD. That oxidation was at controlled room temp no less!
Amsoil cleaned off the barrel never to get gummy again.
Some gun shops do their barrels with it to protect them from customer finger prints.

When you do your friend's Bendix, wipe off any excess and give it a little while for the wet carrier to evaporate then you know it isn't going to attract anything. Great for coating your tools and the instant rust penetration will make you a happy camper.

Cheers and thanks for the receptivity, the mark of a good man.

Kyle,

You wrote:

"Your claims for Amsoil MP are quite a bit more sweeping than it's manufacturer's. Reading about it on their site it sounds like just their version (though quite possibly an improved one) of WD40 and similar products."

"Sweeping claims" ? Not so, my claims are from 35 years experience using it. It puts WD to absolute shame and WD doesn't cut rust worth a dam* either. WD is a joke by comparison.

"I would be inclined to use a dry film lube, that is to say, one where the carrier evaporates leaving a true dry lubricating film, rather than a very very thin sticky one."

A "sticky one" ? That's just the point and why I've repeated myself at the risk of forum disdain. . . How many times can I say that after the wet carrier evaporates it leaves a DRY but slippery film that protects both against friction and corrosion.

"My choice would be a dry moly such as CRC and others make. Moly has an affinity for steel, which makes it last much longer on steel than other dry lubes. Silicone is not a very good choice as it is not considered very effective for metal-on-metal. And many silicone sprays, even those labeled "100% silicone" actually leave an oily residue though this too is often too little to matter (or to do any good)."

I think you are right about silicone Kyle. In fact, Amsoil even says somewhere, "contains no harmful silicones".

Try some CRC powerlube . . . you'll like it. It cuts rust as you watch, just like Amsoil, but is heavier and not as stable as Amsoil, so I only use it for certain things.

Cheers,
Terry

I thought that the lower link balls on my tractor would be a good case in point, being that down there would be the perfect place for a common lubricant to pick up dust. Every now and then, when I have a can at hand, I spray my link balls. It instantly cleans off whatever was there and leaves a new protective coating. The last time I did them was over a month ago.

I just unzipped my tractor shelter and took these closeups of the link ends. Does this look like an oily, sticky film that has picked up dirt?

No axe to grind; just trying to turn you guys on to an incredible product.

Beggin' your pardon, those were two shots of the same ball. I pasted a better left link.

Also, with a swipe of the finger, you can tell they are lubed.