6 volt battery charger

Tractor battery dead went through multiple chargers harbor freight ,advanced auto,napa auto what's a good brand charger for 6 volt batteries most are manual and 30amp quick charge are the quick charge or 6v start mode good for the 6 volt batteries and system.I used battery tenders and I had them smoke and just stop working over time.Years ago I remember battery chargers lasting a while not just blow out so quick are they all made in China now
 
Chris,first of all,no charger regardless of price will charge a dead battery.If any of the cells are gone ,that battery is toast. Be sure to load test it or have a shop nearby do it. Second of all ,there are plenty of decent chargers sold by Walmart,Napa and most of the auto supply stores. They are regulated. You can get one for under 50 bucks that is 6/12 volt.If you spend a bit more you can pick one up with 200amp cranking capability.The ones with multiple settings such as 2 amp,6 amp and 10 amp are regulated to not charge a dead ,shorted battery. I have a battery tender mounted on mine and it works like a charm. If you live in a cold climate you should invest in a magnetic type heater to keep the fluids underneath warm. This will allow your starter to spin a bit easier,especially if you hold the clutch in while cranking.It sounds like it's time for you to buy a new battery.Check it out first. HTH , Mike
 
it's not so much of where they are made.. but how they are made.


60 years ago a 6v battery charger was a power cord, a metal box, 2 gator clipped wires, maybee an on/off switch and maybee a low / hi setting switch, a thermal breaker maybee an ammeter, a transformer and a diode. the high / low was just a different tap on the secondary.


nowadays many of them have full pcboards loaded with discreet components hiding in there. while the xformer and diodes are still there, lots of control and support circuitry in there too..

the more stuff int here.. the more chances for something to go wrong. and all that 'more stuff' is less robust than just a basic transformer and diode...
 
might want to clarify your dead battery statement.

many people say dead battery meaning depleted.

a battery charger can charge a depleted battery.

If a battery is defective, then no. no charge..
 

Chris battery tenders can only tend to a good battery. In other words they "top off the voltage" of a battery. If battery is no good they are just gonna keep trying to top off the battery and never shut off.
I don't like battery tenders. Not that anything is wrong with them cause there isn't. I just prefer hooking up a charger every once in a while to top off my stored batteries. This allows me to see if they still hold a charge or not. I have a bunch of chargers. My go to battery charger is one I bought at Walmart about 13 yrs back. I believe its made by EVER READY. Its a 6/12v and has a 5amp/15amp and 200amp engine starter on it with analog gauge. Aint the best but has never let me down.

I also have carbon pile load tester available at HF which has proven its worth many times over. Have proven that batteries were only good enough for target practice. If you gotta keep charging or jump starting a battery, its a clear indication that the load tester needs to come out.

Also have a 900 amp 12volt battery pack to jump start anything I own anywhere I get stuck. Will jump start any 6volt tractor.
 
Do you have to remove cables to do proper load test I have a
digital volt meter I use it on work vehicles to test the
alternators once I get my tractor started do I test the generator
output the same as an alternator I was told 7.2 volts was the
magic number where can I get an magnetic oil heater
 
Tractor supply has a Schumacher battery charger but I notice
there's no trickle charge for 6 v 30 volt fast charge or 200 amp
start 6 volt I'm so confused on what to get tender stopped
working and charger from harbor freight was smoking
inside.The battery is dead from sitting for a month without use
started all summer and spring no problem only since it got
colder has it just died
 
It's depleted it turned over starter a little then stopped how do you test to see if a battery is shot I have a digital voltmeter do I need anything else is there a way to test for cranking amps
 
[b:c3c67e6f0b]"Do you have to remove cables to do proper load test"[/b:c3c67e6f0b]
Yes I would.

[b:c3c67e6f0b]"do I test the generator output the same as an alternator"[/b:c3c67e6f0b]
Yes put your voltage meter across the battery when the tractor is not running and after the tractor is running. When running the voltage should be higher than when not running. Dont know about a magix number.

[b:c3c67e6f0b]"where can I get an magnetic oil heater"[/b:c3c67e6f0b]
Sorry cant help you here. Never use one.
 
slow charge the battery for a day, then switch to a faster charge. ( IE. low amps for 24 hours. then kick it up. ).

take voltage reading. if you cannot get 12.6v after charging, immediately, then you know you have a shorted cell. if it charges up to 12.6, then you let it rest a few hours and it drops more than a couple tenths, then you may be seeig signs of a bad cell. see if it keeps dropping or stabilizes. if you have a specific gravity tester, can use that too.

carbon pile load tester will also help you determine battery health under load.
 

Harbor freight chargers are total crap. They will smoke. They all do.

Try googling for Model# SE-1510MA for a Schumacher charger. Its a decent one for what you need.
 
(quoted from post at 04:03:34 11/25/14) slow charge the battery for a day, then switch to a faster charge. ( IE. low amps for 24 hours. then kick it up. ).

take voltage reading. if you cannot get 12.6v after charging, immediately, then you know you have a shorted cell. if it charges up to 12.6, then you let it rest a few hours and it drops more than a couple tenths, then you may be seeig signs of a bad cell. see if it keeps dropping or stabilizes. if you have a specific gravity tester, can use that too.

carbon pile load tester will also help you determine battery health under load.

Same idea with 6 volt battery , just not 12.6 volts 6.4 or so.

after you get it charged you could take it to a battery shop for testing. A volt meter only tells you how many volts, not the condition of the battery like a load test does
 
(quoted from post at 15:24:44 11/24/14) It's depleted it turned over starter a little then stopped how do you test to see if a battery is shot I have a digital voltmeter do I need anything else is there a way to test for cranking amps

Carbon Pile Tester.
 
Years ago I remember battery chargers lasting a while not just blow out so quick are they all made in China now

Might try a few yard sales/auctions. I have one my Dad bought in the early 60's, and one I bought in the late 70's. Both still work fine as long as you have a good battery. Got a tender around here somewhere that a friend gave me a while back, never saw a need for it.
 
I almost hit the buy button on this one but I hadn't yet--it says for 6 or 12 volt--cranking amps for jump starting are higher on it than some--never owned one on wheels before but have used them-that little feature makes them handy-whatever u get keep it wrapped up when not in use-mud daubers love to get in a charger for some reason and short things out..I had one cheap maintainer to overheat and turn smoke color so I am a little bit scared of them But do still use one on my motorcycle-Deltran(correct sp I think) has been a good one..Hope this helps
Untitled URL Link
 
i have empirical evidence that says you are wrong. :)

I'd even wager to say that use / misue practices are one of the main causes of problems for those cheaper battery chargers.


I have HF chargers, including 'big' 200a start models. aside from repalcing a switch on it.. it works. It's claims on amperage are over-rated.. but it does work. it's more like a 167a starter setting, not a 200a setting, at least according to my latching ammeter.
 
(quoted from post at 00:25:11 11/26/14) i have empirical evidence that says you are wrong. :)

I'd even wager to say that use / misue practices are one of the main causes of problems for those cheaper battery chargers.


I have HF chargers, including 'big' 200a start models. aside from repalcing a switch on it.. it works. It's claims on amperage are over-rated.. but it does work. it's more like a 167a starter setting, not a 200a setting, at least according to my latching ammeter.

Are not amps based on what the draw is, not what the charger says it will produce?
 
I never had any luck with anything electrical at HF. I have had 2 chargers smoke up as well as a Battery Tender, a trim router (got only 1 Formica top trimmed), drill bit sharpener and a cheap 3/8" drill that i kept in the back of my pickup. To me they are cheap and disposable.

I tend to like their ratchets and sockets as well as bigger stuff like engine stands and lifts and chain hoists.
 
Not necessarily. Some chargers like the ridiculous B&D/Vector chargers are deliberately designed so they will not charge a badly depleted battery. B&D claims this is a safety feature to make it impossible for someone to try and charge a really dead/defective battery, but that is scant consolation when it's 7 in the morning, the battery is dead, and you got to get to work.

Anyone shopping for new charger should be sure it does not have a similar "safety feature".

a battery charger can charge a depleted battery.
 
One of my chargers works the same way. If battery voltage is too low it will not kick in. I touch a small 9v battery to the leads while clipped on to the battery i'm trying to charge and I am good to go.

Really only use this charger as a trickle charger.
 

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