Tractor won't start in cold weather

Soon as cold weather starts tractor won't rebuilt ,engine, piston
sleaves and valves new rings new.Starts right up in warm
weather does this have something to do with how carb sprays
fuel into intake .Its a 6 volt system but my brotherinlaw has 6
system his starts up no problem in cold weather what could
this be
 
Chris before the experts chime in, they are gonna ask:
1. What specific machine you running?
2. Define wont start? Wont crank? Cranks but doesn't turn over?Cranks slow? Non of the above?
3. What have you looked at so far?
 
Define cold. My 1951 8N starts easily at 25 degrees. Colder than that, I don't start! Yours will depend on compression and condition of battery and state of tune.
 
Yea 25 degrees won't start 30s it won't start even when oil is heated and battery charged up clutch in just turns over won't even get a pop from starting fluid but soon as it's warm out 40s 50s startes right up
 
1948 8n cranks over strong clutch in oil heated up battery
charged up nothing from starting fluid either soon as weather
gets to 40s 50s starts right up
 
No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. A float charger is helpful. If you need to jump it, see tip # 43. No, it doesn’t need to be 12v. Plenty of N’s start just fine on 6v in below 0* temps.

Clean grounds & battery terminals are always important. Don’t forget to loosen the starter from the block (see tip # 36) and polish the block & all starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground.

If you can’t remember the last time you replaced the battery cables, it’s time to do it. Just because the terminals are clean doesn’t mean there is no corrosion under the insulation. And, this is another case where size matters (see tip # 41)

A charged battery, clean grounds & new cables aren’t going to mean much if the tractor needs a tune-up. At a minimum, every fall, remove the distributor, check the points for pitting or burning, re-gap them & put a dab of lube on the cam. (BTW…..if you’ve wondered why some folks get years of use out of a set of points…….this is one of the reasons).

Distributor gaskets are important on a sidemount & critical on a frontmount. As is the gasket under the coil. Just like with the battery cables….if you can’t remember when you replaced the gaskets, do it this year.

Push the clutch in when you start the engine (tip # 29)

This tip won’t make it start easier, but it will make it run better: turn the main jet out ½ to 1 full turn for cold weather operating. Cold air is denser so you need a richer mixture.

At least ½ open throttle, key on & gas on 2 full turns; keep your hands off the choke until the engine is turning over! If you think an N floods easy in the summer, just wait until it’s 20*. If you flood it, the plugs are fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. Replace the plugs. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner.

The general consensus seems to be that a battery blankets or magnetic oil pan heaters work better than lower radiator hose heaters or dipstick heaters. Freeze plug heaters are difficult to find for N’s because of the limited space in the water jacket. Magnetic oil pan heaters on the intake manifold will help as well. Or even a light bulb.

While water in gas today is unusual because of all the ethanol, it’s not unheard of. A little water goes a long way at 20*; use a fuel stabilizer.

This is one of my favorite quotes regarding cold weather starts:

"kilroy

07-25-2009 19:19:52
72.13.217.35
724129 <http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=724129>




my 48 8n is 6v with points in a front mount, and at -30 it fires right up, no block heater, just have to tend the choke for a minute. Have run in the rain and snow and have never had to dry the disributer, just used all the little gaskets and guess it sealed up. I like the points because if they do get wet, dry them, they work again, dont know if the electronics are that way but they cost alot more to replace than points I'm sure"
75 Tips
 
Just had a cold spell here in Tn the other day. Down to 13,went outside,cranked with the key off about 5-6 revs,popped choke,turned key on,and she started right up. I guess I got used to starting my old '48 dodge truck,6v+g like that in cold weather. Works every time. lha
 
Yes have spark I was told that the carb sprays different in the
cold weather if the jet is bad I rebuilt carb but could not remove
the bottom brass seat so I left it in there don't know if this is
the problem
 
(quoted from post at 15:56:16 11/24/14) Chris before the experts chime in, they are gonna ask:
1. What specific machine you running?
2. Define wont start? Wont crank? Cranks but doesn't turn over?Cranks slow? Non of the above?
3. What have you looked at so far?

Wont crank? cranks but doesnt turn over? that kind of terminology makes my head spin. the way i understand it cranking it IS turning it over. one and the same thing.

maybe i'm misunderstanding it; can somone please explain how cranking it is different from turning it over? willing to learn.
 

The way I have always heard the term is:
Turn the key or push the starter button and the starter turns which cranks the engine.
If the engine continues to run after letting go of the key or starter button , than it has turned over.

Others may differ but that's the way I use the terms.
 
I pull it out upon anitial start up then push it in same as I do in warmer weather do you not use choke the same in cold weather
 
Do you have winter formula gasoline in the tank?

Is the battery good and fully charged?

Do you have properly sized battery cables?

Are you holding the clutch disengaged when cranking?

Dean
 
The colder the metal, the more it contracts. I would get a compression tester at the ready for the next episode. You can have spark and fuel, but if your compression is below 90psi - won't start problems are on the menu for the day.
 
Lot of good stuff from the boys.....as dumb as this may sound....it seems that Each of these tractors is a bit unique....I had to find the sweet spot in choke position.....not enough....or too much...often the issue....IMHO!!....My one 8n...choke rod pull 5/8 of an inch....starts whatever the temp....too much.....flooding....
 
" Try jumping the resister just while starting. "

IF it's a 6v frontmount w/ the OEM ballast resistor, you won't get much out of jumping it. The spec is .03 ohms cold & 1.7 ohms hot. But, if some misguided soul has replaced the OEM ballast resistor w/ some fixed resistor of unknown value, then jumping it might help.
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75 Tips
 

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