Electrical Question 8n 6 Volt

Hi, I've been watching this forum for a number of months now trying to absorb everything I can. I purchased a rebuilt 1952 8N 6 (Volt) over the summer. Everything ran fine until the first snow fall...I currently have it in the garage with a blade on it and chains but it's only a paperweight at this time. Here's my problem. There is no spark when I turn it over. It turns over fine but there is absolutely no spark to the plugs or points...I took a plug out and grounded it to the engine and nothing...I have replace the points, plugs, coil and now the ignition switch...
Still no spark...Is there something I'm missing here?? I do have a resistor coming in the mail but living in Custer SD, everything takes time...When I bought it the guy put a new wiring harness on it and like I stated, it ran great until the first snow fall...It's been sitting in the garage since...I have looked at the schematics for the 6 volt and it certainly isn't that complicated, but I'm looking for someone who is obviously brighter than myself...Thanks for any information you can provide...Jody
 
Jody........yer 6-volt 5-nipple 52-8N NEVER had a resistor. Only the 4-nipple squarecan dizzy needs the MANDATORY "infamous" ballast resistor. You can count nipples, can't you??? NO RESISTOR fer yer 52-8N, understand???

While the 5-nipple dizzy is not as difficult as the weird 4-nipple front mount, newbee shadetree mechanic wannabees often SHORT the electrical feed thru the side of the dizzy and guess what??? NO SPARKIES.

While the weaksister ignition switch can prevent sparkies, its usually the LAST place to look. First place is the POINTS. Gap=0.025, same as yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's.

Unlike the weird 4-nipple squarecan dizzy, the 5-nipple roundcan coil is semi-bulletproof. BTW.......it doesn't matter which way you connect the 2-little roundcoil terminals, it'll work either way. There is a remote advantage to positive ground, but with NEW points (0.025") don't sweat it. .........sweat less Dell
 
Ok, no resistor for my 6 volt...I've Got it! I have the points set at .025 and still doesn't even spark (when I got the cap off) and turning the engine over...There is spark though when I put a screw driver in between them...I do have the 437's in also...Is there something else I'm missing? Thanks
 
Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open?

Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all. If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:14:33 11/21/14) Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open?

Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all. If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.
75 Tips
es, the gap is .025...I put the old condenser back in...Went to Napa and got some new points (old, new ones were from TSC), I checked the coil wire and no spark when I turned the key on and held it against an unpainted surface...took a plug wire and tried that, still no spark...when you say 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking, I'm not sure what you mean about this...Thank you for taking the time to post, Jody
 
I had similar problems with my 8n, I had replaced
points, coil, harness, plugs......... ended up being
the coil, I had voltage through the primary windings
to the points but the secondary winding that send
power to the cap were shot. brand new coil too. i
put another new coil on and she took right off.
never ran so good before, but it better with all
those new parts!
 
Try running a jumper wire straight from the non
grounded side of the battery to the coil. Now check
for spark. Report back.
 
" I had power earlier but now I don't... "

That could easily come from the copper strip and/or the insulator being loose.

" when you say 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking, I'm not sure what you mean about this..."

If the strip and/or insulator move at all, then the chances of a poor/weak connection are pretty good. So, see if they move.

With the key on & the points open, put the probes from your meter on both sides at the points. You should see 6.35v or so. If not, then check the strip/insulator.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 05:37:11 11/22/14) " I had power earlier but now I don't... "

That could easily come from the copper strip and/or the insulator being loose.

" when you say 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking, I'm not sure what you mean about this..."

If the strip and/or insulator move at all, then the chances of a poor/weak connection are pretty good. So, see if they move.

With the key on & the points open, put the probes from your meter on both sides at the points. You should see 6.35v or so. If not, then check the strip/insulator.
75 Tips
k, after working on the distributor last night I took the pig tail apart and the wire (with a loop) that goes from the coil to the points, broke, after taking that apart there is no copper strip that you speak of...I will go to town, get 2 more loops and make another connecter that goes to the points and post back...I will then see if I get spark between the points...My shop manual doesn't show a copper metal strip either...I will get this all back together and report back...Hope I'm making sense...Thank you all for your posts...Jody
 
" Hope I'm making sense."

To be truthful, no, you're not.

Lets start w/ the basics.

You first said that you have a 1952 8N. That model has a side distributor & a round coil.

So lets stop right here....

Is that what you have?

I ask because you just referred to " I took the pig tail apart " and "My shop manual doesn't show a copper metal strip either."

The side distributor does not have a pigtail. The front coil does.

The metal strip is p/n 12209.

The insulator is p/n 12233.

These are the very same part numbers I referenced in my post yesterday.

So before we go any further, do you have a front or side distributor?
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 07:53:48 11/22/14) " Hope I'm making sense."

To be truthful, no, you're not.

Lets start w/ the basics.

You first said that you have a 1952 8N. That model has a side distributor & a round coil.

So lets stop right here....

Is that what you have?

I ask because you just referred to " I took the pig tail apart " and "My shop manual doesn't show a copper metal strip either."

The side distributor does not have a pigtail. The front coil does.

The metal strip is p/n 12209.

The insulator is p/n 12233.

These are the very same part numbers I referenced in my post yesterday.

So before we go any further, do you have a front or side distributor?
75 Tips
Yes, I have a 1952 8N. That has a side distributor & a round coil. What I am referring to is the little wire that runs from the inside of the dist. and connects to the points screw (along with the condenser clip)...Due to the cold weather, that inside round loop snapped off...That is what I need to replace first....The other end of that screw goes around the screw that goes through the side of the dist. From there is a wire that goes up to the coil and hooks to the negative side...Hope that makes some sense...Since that wire loop snapped off from bending it to go on the points, I have to go get another couple of loops and put it all together before I try any suggestions...When I get that back together, I'll report back...Thank you, Jody
I used the wrong terminology when I said "Pigtail"...It's the little curly wire inside the dist...Kind of looks like a pigtail...
 
" What I am referring to is the little wire that runs from the inside of the dist. and connects to the points screw"

Go back & look at the picture in your parts catalog.

There is NO wire in the distributor. Someone replaced the copper strip, p/n 12209, w/ a piece of wire.

And chances are that's why you do not have spark.

There are plenty of N's out there w/ a wire that run. As I said earlier, " You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. "

Your call.
75 Tips
 

this picture shows the copper strip Bruce is talking about.
mvphoto13270.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 08:59:33 11/22/14) " What I am referring to is the little wire that runs from the inside of the dist. and connects to the points screw"

Go back & look at the picture in your parts catalog.

There is NO wire in the distributor. Someone replaced the copper strip, p/n 12209, w/ a piece of wire.

And chances are that's why you do not have spark.

There are plenty of N's out there w/ a wire that run. As I said earlier, " You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. "

Your call.
75 Tips
he wire I'm talking about has been attached to the same tiny bolt the condenser wire hooks on to...I've taken pictures of the inside of my distributor for you to see but for some reason not able to post them...Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words...(especially my words)... After getting everything back on the way it was, there is spark between the points when the key is on and it turns over...Thanks again, Jody
 
mvphoto13274.jpg

I would think the yellow wire would/should be able to carry the current also...This has been the way it's ran for years...Thanks again, Jody
 
" This has been the way it's ran for years"

And it will probably continue to do so......but it will also run longer and provide a better electrical connection w/ the OEM parts that are in R Geiger's pic.

Think of it this way.......

Wire is cheaper than the custom made copper strip.

Henry Ford was a skinflint.

If wire would work just as well, why did Henry use the copper strip?
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 10:52:08 11/22/14) " This has been the way it's ran for years"

And it will probably continue to do so......but it will also run longer and provide a better electrical connection w/ the OEM parts that are in R Geiger's pic.

Think of it this way.......

Wire is cheaper than the custom made copper strip.

Henry Ford was a skinflint.

If wire would work just as well, why did Henry use the copper strip?
75 Tips
understand...I will order the OEM parts...Suppose to get some more snow and I was hoping I could just get it running until they get here...If I am getting spark to the points though but not the plugs, is there a possibility this could be the cause? Thanks, Jody
 
(quoted from post at 21:54:42 11/21/14) Try running a jumper wire straight from the non
grounded side of the battery to the coil. Now check
for spark. Report back.
Tried running the jumper to the positive side of the coil to the non grounded side of the battery and no spark...
 
" If I am getting spark to the points though but not the plugs, is there a possibility this could be the cause? "

NO!

Please go back & re-read the diagnostic procedures in my previous post.

Measure the voltage across the open points w/ the key on.

If you do not have battery voltage there, then the wire/insulator is the likely problem.

If you DO have battery voltage across the points & that wire is securely attached, then the problem is w/ the cap/rotor/wires/plugs, etc.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 11:47:39 11/22/14) " If I am getting spark to the points though but not the plugs, is there a possibility this could be the cause? "

NO!

Please go back & re-read the diagnostic procedures in my previous post.

Measure the voltage across the open points w/ the key on.

If you do not have battery voltage there, then the wire/insulator is the likely problem.

If you DO have battery voltage across the points & that wire is securely attached, then the problem is w/ the cap/rotor/wires/plugs, etc.
75 Tips
measured the voltage and it reads 6.91 with the key on, Thanks
 
If that's the voltage across the open points, then your primary coil circuit is as it should be. Do you have spark at the plugs?
 
(quoted from post at 12:07:09 11/22/14) If that's the voltage across the open points, then your primary coil circuit is as it should be. Do you have spark at the plugs?
have No Spark at the plugs...
 
(quoted from post at 12:13:21 11/22/14) Have you checked the coil as I suggested earlier?
I checked that with the key on and no spark!! So would I be correct to assume my new coil is useless? Time for another new coil?
 
Did you check it AFTER you confirmed that you had battery voltage across the points?

Are you doing the checking w/ a fully charged battery that turns the engine over easily?

Chances of 2 bad round coils are remote.
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:52 11/22/14) Did you check it AFTER you confirmed that you had battery voltage across the points?

Are you doing the checking w/ a fully charged battery that turns the engine over easily?

Chances of 2 bad round coils are remote.
Yes I did...Battery is fully charged also...Just picked up a coil from NAPA which was a little bit more expensive with a 3 year warranty...I put it in and report back...thanks again Bruce..
 
(quoted from post at 04:21:23 11/23/14)
(quoted from post at 12:13:21 11/22/14) Have you checked the coil as I suggested earlier?
I checked that with the key on and no spark!! So would I be correct to assume my new coil is useless? Time for another new coil?

make sure the points are making contact. what is your valtage across points with them closed?
 
(quoted from post at 13:00:04 11/22/14)
(quoted from post at 04:21:23 11/23/14)
(quoted from post at 12:13:21 11/22/14) Have you checked the coil as I suggested earlier?
I checked that with the key on and no spark!! So would I be correct to assume my new coil is useless? Time for another new coil?

make sure the points are making contact. what is your valtage across points with them closed?
Tried the NAPA coil and still not getting spark when I take the coil wire off and place it against unpainted metal...The points are making contact and closing and opening...I checked the voltage when the points are closed (with key on) and it reads .08...When I hooked the 2 wires up, the negative went to the dist. I assume this is correct since that's how I took the original off....
 
As Bruce says, someone has been un there before you and customized a but. The copper strip is OEM, can be made or replaced with wire carefully, your call
 
The copper strip (in the distributor) I replaced with the copper strip from a old set of points.
This may not be the correct OEM way or the wire way, but it worked. In fact I have used it that way for a very long time.
 
(quoted from post at 20:56:21 11/22/14) That's one of the common ways to fix it.
Another common way is to run the wire straight from
the coil through the hole in the distributor to the points.
I don't like this method as a permanent solution, but it works
well for testing to eliminate the feed through as the cause.
 
Arrrgh!
Another bloody painful thread about points.
No offense to anyone here but
Why would anybody go through all this hassle and answering all these questions when there is a much easier way??
I bookmarked this thread and the next time the question of whether to install electronic igtnition comes up I'm going to link to it.
 
(quoted from post at 21:53:13 11/22/14) Arrrgh!
Another bloody painful thread about points.
No offense to anyone here but
Why would anybody go through all this hassle and answering all these questions when there is a much easier way??
I bookmarked this thread and the next time the question of whether to install electronic igtnition comes up I'm going to link to it.
Link this one too! EI Experience
I am a fan of EI, but it isn't the end-all solution.
Probably especially on a 6V system.
I would get it running on what is there, without throwing
more parts at it, then decide if I want to convert to 12V or EI.
 
" I checked the voltage when the points are closed (with key on) and it reads .08."

Uh-huh.

Did you dress the points as I advised?

If not, do so. If you did, do it again.

Then check the voltage, points open & points closed.

" Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) "
75 Tips
 
" I would get it running on what is there, without throwing more parts at it, then decide if I want to convert to 12V or EI. "

My thoughts exactly.
75 Tips
 

Hooking two wires to a side mount EI unit would be a lot easier for an electrically challenged person than having to learn all the theory that is being explained here about how points work (or don't work).
 
Perhaps you should take the novel approach of actually reading the thread before you naively prescribe your standard "EI cures everything" fix.

He had no voltage to the points thanks to a faulty insulator/wire on the side of the distributor. Want to tell us how EI will fix that? Instead of having a non-running tractor w/ points, he could follow your advice & have a non-running tractor w/ EI.
 
It was a long and painful thread.
So of course I didn't read it all.
I think we could have got him some spark in just a few sentences.
Check for voltage to the coil.
If yes, toss the points and install EI.
There are a couple of other things to mention such as running a second wire to power the module with full voltage and using a dab of silicone where the two wires from the module go through the side of the distributer.
Pretty simple really.
Plus you have the added advantage of not having to mess with points again.
 
(quoted from post at 05:47:30 11/23/14) " I checked the voltage when the points are closed (with key on) and it reads .08."

Uh-huh.

Did you dress the points as I advised?

If not, do so. If you did, do it again.

Then check the voltage, points open & points closed.

" Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) "
75 Tips
Geesh, I didn't realize this was such a touchy subject...Yes, I addressed the points like you advised and the gap is still at .025...I will order the OEM copper strip, screw, bushing and insulator, and go from there...Could it possibly be the red wire that hooks up to the positive side of the coil? In the archives I've read, that wire isn't really addressed...Sorry to raise some people's blood pressure about my problem...I'll figure it out...Thanks again, Jody
 
" Geesh, I didn't realize this was such a touchy subject"

Don't worry about it. Not for a second.

Concentrate on getting your tractor running. Every board always has someone who would rather hijack a thread & stir the pot than actually assist others.

" Could it possibly be the red wire that hooks up to the positive side of the coil? "

Your coil has 3 wires. The large center wire that goes to the center of the distributor cap carries HV when the points open. That circuit goes from the coil to the rotor to the cap to the plug wires then the plug. It's called the secondary circuit. The primary circuit carries battery voltage from the battery to the negative side of the coil then it goes to the positive side then to the connection on the side of the distributor, then to the points. That's the primary circuit. What your diagnostics have proven is that you probably have sufficient voltage in the primary to produce a spark. If you have battery voltage across the open points and near 0v closed, you should see a spark at the plugs.

Tell us how you are checking for spark?

Are you using an old plug gapped to 1/4" or a plug checker?
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 22:38:51 11/23/14)
(quoted from post at 05:47:30 11/23/14) " I checked the voltage when the points are closed (with key on) and it reads .08."

Uh-huh.

Did you dress the points as I advised?

If not, do so. If you did, do it again.

Then check the voltage, points open & points closed.

" Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) "
75 Tips
Geesh, I didn't realize this was such a touchy subject...Yes, I addressed the points like you advised and the gap is still at .025...I will order the OEM copper strip, screw, bushing and insulator, and go from there...Could it possibly be the red wire that hooks up to the positive side of the coil? In the archives I've read, that wire isn't really addressed...Sorry to raise some people's blood pressure about my problem...I'll figure it out...Thanks again, Jody

Kota, every thing is in question... About the eases way to help one understand this system is to think of the coil as a light bulb...
Supply voltage from the switch side and control it with the negative side (points)... I dread to see were someone took the brass strip out and bypassed it I understand why but it will never be as dependable as that damm little brass strip with the screw/stud insulator set up....
 

This is were a voltmeter will kick your arse... You can not depend on voltmeter readings on a circuit that's not loaded...
 
Insulator where the wire enters the distributor
side going to the points can shout out to the
housing. Seen it many times. Just take the
screw out of the housing with the insulator and
run the points wire through the hole to the
points from the coil.

A dab of silicone glue over the wire and hole
and you are good to go if that's the problem

Zane
 
Geesh, I didn't realize this was such a touchy subject...
When I saw an electrical question was the topic & it was already 4 pages long I'd have bet a hundred dollar bill that EI was in there somewhere!! :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 17:41:21 11/23/14) Insulator where the wire enters the distributor
side going to the points can shout out to the
housing. Seen it many times. Just take the
screw out of the housing with the insulator and
run the points wire through the hole to the
points from the coil.

A dab of silicone glue over the wire and hole
and you are good to go if that's the problem

Zane
Thanks for the suggestion, just tried it and it still won't start...Don't suppose there are any electrical gurus in the Custer area...lol...Jody
 
(quoted from post at 05:55:57 11/24/14)
(quoted from post at 17:41:21 11/23/14) Insulator where the wire enters the distributor
side going to the points can shout out to the
housing. Seen it many times. Just take the
screw out of the housing with the insulator and
run the points wire through the hole to the
points from the coil.

A dab of silicone glue over the wire and hole
and you are good to go if that's the problem

Zane
Thanks for the suggestion, just tried it and it still won't start...Don't suppose there are any electrical gurus in the Custer area...lol...Jody

Become one yerself... Go to the parts store and buy the cheapes automotive sealed beam head light they have.. ( H6054 comes to mind)... Remove the coil electrical wires and wire in the head light it will simulate the coil it pulls about the same amperage :wink: go back and test it as it has been posted... Even GURU"S need help when helping the helpless... Nuttin beats what you see keep at it you will see the light...

Lots of time has been invested don't let them down they may learn sum'n in return... You are wipp'n out and cheating them...

I just read it wuz 6V you have my condolences.. I will leave i up to the 6V nutz to carry on...
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:10 11/23/14)
How are you checking for spark?
Seems like many ways...Used the meter yesterday, with points closed I believe it was .08...with them open and key on if memory serves somewhere around 6.8...Pulled the wire off the dist., put it against an unpainted surface, turn it over, nothing...Pulled a plug put it against an unpainted surface, nothing...Today I even decided to run a jumper from the + side of the coil to where the ignition wire is...nothing...Think I'll just leave it alone for a couple of days and come back to it...I've never seen anything that appears so simple, be so frustrating...There has to be simple solution...just not getting it...Thanks again for the replies Bruce....
 
(quoted from post at 14:28:43 11/23/14) Every board always has someone who would rather hijack a thread & stir the pot than actually assist others.

No Bruce.
It is just that some of us are unwilling to accept your rigid rules on how to fix a tractor.
Your vicious condemnation of anything 12V and non points is well known here.
 
The main problem is the average tractor owner thinks they run on fuel and magic, fuel in the tank and everything else is magic.

Why 3' of wire and a switch bumfuzzle soooo many smart people is beyond me.
 
I can't seem to find anything in this thread from you offering any assistance. Nobody is stopping you from helping this guy get his tractor started.

Telling him to put EI on a non-running tractor w/o even reading the thread isn't assistance.
 
(quoted from post at 06:19:53 11/24/14)
Telling him to put EI on a non-running tractor w/o even reading the thread isn't assistance.

Maybe according to your lights it isn't.
Trying to learn about his points took him a couple of days.
EI could have been installed in half an hour and would have solved the problem.
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:26 11/24/14)
(quoted from post at 19:19:10 11/23/14)
How are you checking for spark?
Seems like many ways...Used the meter yesterday, with points closed I believe it was .08...with them open and key on if memory serves somewhere around 6.8...Pulled the wire off the dist., put it against an unpainted surface, turn it over, nothing...Pulled a plug put it against an unpainted surface, nothing...Today I even decided to run a jumper from the + side of the coil to where the ignition wire is...nothing...Think I'll just leave it alone for a couple of days and come back to it...I've never seen anything that appears so simple, be so frustrating...There has to be simple solution...just not getting it...Thanks again for the replies Bruce....

Today I even decided to run a jumper from the + side of the coil to where the ignition wire is...nothing...

You should have went straight to the battery to eliminate switch and wiring issues to the coil....
 
Maybe I missed it, but here is a schematic of how things should be wired.

If it were me, I would regroup and start with making sure everything is wired up correctly and no shorts or open wires are evident.
Don't pay attention to the colors of the wire (as they may have been replaced) rather make sure there is a wire connected as shown in the diagram.

Then taking the great advise given so far, troubleshoot down to the component level. If it was once working, it can be made to work again.
I know sounds easier said then done but take it as a learning experience and have patience.

mvphoto13316.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:26:13 11/24/14) Maybe I missed it, but here is a schematic of how things should be wired.

If it were me, I would regroup and start with making sure everything is wired up correctly and no shorts or open wires are evident.
Don't pay attention to the colors of the wire (as they may have been replaced) rather make sure there is a wire connected as shown in the diagram.

Then taking the great advise given so far, troubleshoot down to the component level. If it was once working, it can be made to work again.
I know sounds easier said then done but take it as a learning experience and have patience.

mvphoto13316.jpg
After what seems like forever, I finally got my 8N started...For some reason the bolt that holds the distributor was just loose enough so that it turned, just enough so that it wouldn't start and also The points I got from NAPA weren't exactly flush when closed...Took the points out and straightened them so they would hit flush and I just about dropped my teeth, because it started....
I have appreciated all the help from you folks here, Thank You, Jody
 

I won't to commend ya for man'N up...

If folks that put all this effort into help'N would sharpen there diagnostic skills theses issue would not go on for ever...

There are questions that must be answered be-4 the show moves on,,, that's the way it works in my world....
 
Doesn't matter how long it takes or how many times you have to go over it but nothing beats that feeling when you're able to figure it out on your own.
Bet you those points will never kick your butt again.
 
After about a month, it got very frustrating, but at least I learned about the electrics...I will still have to do some adjusting of the carb since I took that apart and cleaned it...Got it pretty close though, just need to fine tune it...
 
(quoted from post at 03:41:05 12/08/14) After about a month, it got very frustrating, but at least I learned about the electrics...I will still have to do some adjusting of the carb since I took that apart and cleaned it...Got it pretty close though, just need to fine tune it...
EP! SEE, EI WOULD HAVE FIXED THET LOOSE TURNING DISTRIBUTOR! FOR SURE!!!
"After what seems like forever, I finally got my 8N started...For some reason the bolt that holds the distributor was just loose enough so that it turned, just enough so that it wouldn't start. " :shock: :lol: :?:
 

[b:2affed71f8][color=darkred:2affed71f8]Oh No![/color:2affed71f8][/b:2affed71f8]...You have no idea what you just might have started!!!![size=18:2affed71f8][/size:2affed71f8]
 
[i:efa3783b28]
"YEP! SEE, EI WOULD HAVE FIXED THET LOOSE TURNING DISTRIBUTOR! FOR SURE!!!"[/i:efa3783b28]

LMAO! Yep, " EI could have been installed in half an hour and would have solved the problem." sure was some spot-on excellent advice. :twisted:
 

[i:7eea17af41]" If folks that put all this effort into help'N would sharpen there diagnostic skills theses issue would not go on for ever..."[/i:7eea17af41]

Don't beat yourself up over missing this one. Not a diagnostic check in the world says "check for a loose distributor".

I'd like to think that if I was there even I would have noticed a loose distributor while working on it ;)

Reading back through all of the info, everything pointed to an intermittent short at the side insulator.

Except when he said he had no spark at all w/ a jumper from the coil to the points......

:roll:
 
"After what seems like forever, I finally got my 8N started...For some reason the bolt that holds the distributor was just loose enough so that it turned, just enough so that it wouldn't start and also The points I got from NAPA weren't exactly flush when closed...Took the points out and straightened them so they would hit flush and I just about dropped my teeth, because it started....
I have appreciated all the help from you folks here, Thank You, Jody"

congrats
little late to the party here and I didn't read all the posts, but would like to add...
Now that it is running, throw your timing light on it and make sure the advance is working properly.
A distributor housing trying to spin when the bolt is loose, sometimes points to rusted/gunked up advance weights that are dragging.
only takes a few minutes to clean em up.
 

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