2 years of 8N electrical problems

1948 8N (front coil) converted to 12V before I had. So a couple years back I got this tractor running, but have had starting issues since the beginning. I have followed wiring advice, and have replaced solenoid twice, battery twice, starter rebuilt and also replaced with new starter, and new alternator. Most of those money-grubbing replacements did not help anything.

I generally have had to start the tractor with two 12V batteries (jumping). Starts well with a rolling start. Now I can not get it to turn over even jumping with a running car. At best I get a solenoid chatter. I have four terminal solenoid (not ground-activated), and the S is only showing 2-4 volts when I turn ignition to start. No spark if I jump from positive battery post to starter post. Just now I figured out if I take red cable off post and then jump from battery post to starter I get very strong "welding" sparks, but starter makes no effort to turn. Pretty sure same thing happened with the rebuilt starter. Starter to frame contact has been polished and bolts are quite tight. Hard to believe that poor grounding could be an issue. When I took the rebuilt starter out it would give a superfast whizz when jumped. I have tried all three solenoids I have sitting around. (Solenoid is frame mounted, not starter mounted.)

I think I have been "compensating" for some issue now, and it would be really useful to have a tractor that starts. Help

aschwerin........uh? you really are electrically challenged, arn't you?

First off, the 6-volt 3-terminal starter solenoid is semi-bulletproof and works well in 12-volt conversions ...and... same fer the 4-terminal solenoids. ...howsomevers... installation of the 4-terminal type solenoids can be "tricky" 'cuz there are several virgins of them. (I flunked mind reading, just ask my ex-wife of 32-yrs)

2nd off, replace BOTH yer battery cables, NO ARGUE!!!!

Here's the deal, the cables can gitt internal corrosion inside the lead clamps. Battery cables are CHEEP, byte the bullett.

You do know the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy is designed to have the points (0.015") installed/adjusted on the kitchen table, don't you??? Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle and walk the kitchen. Install/adjust yer points (0.015"), remember to POLISH the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points (.015"). I use a clean $1-bill, but you can use a torn strip of HEAVY brown paper grocery sack iff'n yer really cheep.

Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and install the rotor. Now rotate the rotor until the OFF-SET drive tang falls into the OFF-SET camshaft slot. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple the capple. Simple, eh? Because of the OFF-SET design, you can NOT install the 2-bolt dizzy outta time.

Lets talk about yer weird 4-nipple SQUARE CAN ignition coil. Both the original 6-volt and modern 12-volt square can coil DEMAND the "infamous ballast resistor". NO ARGUE!!!

Welding sparks??? but the starter motor don't turn. Shouldn't take an electrical engineer to deduce sumptin' SHORTED....sheeze....Take yer starter in fer expert diagnosis. AND REPLACE yer corroded BATTERY CABLES!!!!........respectfully, electrical Dell

Is this the aftermarket replacement starter?
It could have gone bad on you. Still got the rebuilt original?
I would make sure its not just stuck in the ring gear before
I called it bad though.

Electricity isn't my strongest skill.

This solenoid has worked most of the time, I have almost always had to use two batteries though. From what I've read any 12V car battery should start this tractor.

Ok, I will replace both cables. They look good but I will replace them.

The tractor runs as fine as I expect a 60 year old tractor to run - once started. I did do a points and rotor kit when I first started working on this tractor.

I did study up on the ballast resistor on these forums. It should be good. I think I'm using a little white bar with two spade connectors mounted near the ignition switch.

I brought the original starter to a reputable fella and he rebuilt it for me, though it was in pretty good shape. Then I bought a new aftermarket starter a few months ago. It works the same as my old one, except my old one broke when taking it off (the Hot stud on top). So all in all I've had starter checked twice, rebuilt once, and replaced once. Same issue through all that.

So actually battery cables can't be the issue when I'm jumping straight to the starter. So now that you have me thinking about it your way, it might not be an electrical problem. Starters work just fine off the tractor so somehow my tractor must have a real hard time turning over? Maybe if I take out all the spark plugs to release compression....?

I hope I don't sound argumentative, but the two starters I've used test good, and so you're saying they should always turn when I apply strong voltage to them.

Will it still pull start?
It sure wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and see if it will roll over.
Check them to see if any are wet. Any antifreeze in the cylinders?
These are low compression engines. They should roll easily with
a 6V battery. Needing two 12V batteries would indicate problems.

The original ballast resistor is needed to keep from burning up coils,
but that has nothing to do with the starter not rolling the engine over.

"Little white bar with two spade connectors" is not the OEM resistor. Remove it! Now try and start it.

I believe this is the resistor they are saying you need.

here is pic, including ballast resistor, not including battery which I was testing another one

I circled your original ballast resistor in blue.
Doesn't look like its hooked up.
If I'm seeing that right, the ceramic resistor you have marked
as a ballast resistor is between the switch and the solenoid "I"
terminal, possibly keeping it from getting enough current to engage.
Where is the wire from your coil hooked to?

Again, if the starter won't turn it when you jumper straight to it,
the resistor is not the cause of it not turning the engine over.
Did you pull the plugs and check for hydro-lock? Will it still pull start?

Ok, I removed ballast resistor, solenoid, alternator, and all other distractions from the equations. Jumped to starter (while mounted on tractor) with battery that tests excellent with new, thick jumper cables. Lots of sparks, no starter action.

I noticed there is no resistance between starter stud and tractor ground/starter body. I think somebody said that is normal for a starter. I guess I could check one of my vehicles.

Pulled plugs. No crank. Either battery or starter.

I would pull the starter and have it tested.

Two fully charged batteries (one on a running truck) wouldn't budge the starter. Took it out, put it back in, and started fine with a single battery.

I think many of my past issues were weak batteries, and this last time maybe the starter was partially engaged with a weak battery, and the Bendix was hung up somehow.

Glad to hear you got it running and thanks for letting us know!