Check pressure in filled tires

Caryc

Well-known Member
Do regular tire pressure gauges work on liquid filled tires?

Tried to check one of my rears and the gauge just wouldn't work, registered nothing. Does the liquid just plug it up or something?

I've checked those tires before as I remember with no problem. I think it was with a different gauge though. The gauge works fine on my car tires.
 
(quoted from post at 13:23:32 11/11/14) I have always used a pressure gauge made specifically for liquid filled tires

OK, where do I get one of these gauges? I didn't know there was such a thing.
 
TSC has them, probably other farm stores too.
Roll the valve stem up to the top first to reduce spillage.
 
Caryc........try checkin' yer rear tire pressure (12psi) with the valve stem at the TOP of the tire. In fluid filled tires, guess what will be at the TOP of the tire? This will require a little pre-planning on yer part.

Yes, there are tire pressure gauges (round types) that don't gitt all buggered up with liquid. Some slim pencil types might. ........pressurized Dell
 
As Dell said. roll the stem to the top.. now use your air chuck and blow a shot of air into the stem to clear the valve.. then you can check them. Usually you cam look at a rear and pretty much eye it up based on footprint.

Once word of advice when working with loaded tires. keep extra cores or valve stem finals on hand. never know when you will air or check a tire and find that while it WAS holding good. after disturbing it.. it ain't no longer. :)
 
(quoted from post at 14:07:09 11/11/14) Caryc........try checkin' yer rear tire pressure (12psi) with the valve stem at the TOP of the tire. In fluid filled tires, guess what will be at the TOP of the tire? This will require a little pre-planning on yer part.

Yes, there are tire pressure gauges (round types) that don't gitt all buggered up with liquid. Some slim pencil types might. ........pressurized Dell

How do you get at it with the valve stem at the top? It's under the fender.

Are these the correct stems?

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-20076-T...;sr=1-2&keywords=tractor+tire+valve+stems

I'd like to keep some spares on hand. Can the new outer piece just be screwed on to the stem right on the tire with no dismounting?

Anybody got a close up pic of the stems themselves?
 
There are at least two different types, those are correct for
the newer style tubes, the older style had external threads.
Yes you can change them without dismounting the tire.
Jack it up to take pressure off and turn it to the top to change.
Expect all the air and some fluid to escape.
I use a shield to keep it off my fender.
Its a little tight, but you can check and change them at the top.
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:25 11/11/14) There are at least two different types, those are correct for
the newer style tubes, the older style had external threads.
Yes you can change them without dismounting the tire.
Jack it up to take pressure off and turn it to the top to change.
Expect all the air and some fluid to escape.
I use a shield to keep it off my fender.
Its a little tight, but you can check and change them at the top.

Here is a pic of my valve stem. Does the top part just unscrew from the bigger round part next to the rim?

TireValve_zpsbcc786bf.jpg
 
Caryc, I cannot tell for sure from your picture. My eyes are not so good.
Here are a couple of pictures I took of the old style valve before
and after I replaced it. The red line is about where it came apart.
Hopefully you can compare to yours.
The orange plastic "nut" in my picture, usually they're white,
is just used for holding the tube in place while inflating. They
are not strong and usually the sun rots them off.
I have never seen one that comes apart that far down.
Don't bother trying to take that off or trying to take it apart down there.

mvphoto12913.jpg


mvphoto12914.jpg
 

Forgive me for being a little dumb but I've never dealt with these things before.

So, from what I understand that threaded part "A" is built into the tube. Once that is stuck through the rim, that collar is screwed on to hold it in place. Then the valve stem "B" is screwed into that?

ValveStem2_zps1c90002a.jpg
 
You've got part A exactly right and B almost.
The newer style stem is screwed "into" it.
This pic being the older style sets inside it, but has
a small collar that screws over the outside.
The difference being whether that smaller part of the
tube, "B", has internal or external threads.
This one had external threads.
 
(quoted from post at 17:55:27 11/11/14) You've got part A exactly right and B almost.
The newer style stem is screwed "into" it.
This pic being the older style sets inside it, but has
a small collar that screws over the outside.
The difference being whether that smaller part of the
tube, "B", has internal or external threads.
This one had external threads.

I guess I'm still not getting it. Are you saying that the brass colored part is not threaded externally and screwed into the older looking shaft?
 
"Are you saying that the brass colored part is not threaded
externally and screwed into the older looking shaft?"

On the old style it is not, on the new style it is.
I think that's where I'm confusing you.

I just went and looked, I do not have an old style to
take a picture of, but here's a close-up of the new style.
This also happens to be the same Slime CH3 in your link.
What you need depends on how old your tube is.

mvphoto12933.jpg
 
Any time I use a gauge on a fluid filled tire I hold it under water & work the gauge back & forth for a while to flush out the bad stuff.
 
Thanks so much for the pics guys. I get it now. Would it be a good idea to put a dab of silicone plumbers grease on those O rings before installing? Or just stick them in dry?
 
I use tire lube on mine but I think silicone would work.
Even dish soap. I don't like to put them in dry though.
No real reason for that I guess, just the way I do it.
 
(quoted from post at 21:31:09 11/11/14) I use tire lube on mine but I think silicone would work.
Even dish soap. I don't like to put them in dry though.
No real reason for that I guess, just the way I do it.

I am often removing and reinserting mine at tractor pulls. I just lick'em before replacing.
 
(quoted from post at 08:39:38 11/12/14)
(quoted from post at 21:31:09 11/11/14) I use tire lube on mine but I think silicone would work.
Even dish soap. I don't like to put them in dry though.
No real reason for that I guess, just the way I do it.

I am often removing and reinserting mine at tractor pulls. I just lick'em before replacing.
That would work. Still checks 'em for leaks too! :)
 
(reply to post at 05:46:01 11/12/14)

I'm wondering if the things get stuck in there after being in for years and years? Are they hard to get out sometimes?

I wouldn't think grabbing the bottom (tube) part with a pair of pliers or vise grips to unscrew the top part would be a good idea. I'd be kind of afraid of smashing the tube part a little out of round causing non sealing problems. for thoes O rings.

Incidentally, I have wheel weights on my wheels making them a little harder to get at.
 

I wouldn't think grabbing the bottom (tube) part with a pair of pliers or vise grips to unscrew the top part would be a good idea. I'd be kind of afraid of smashing the tube part a little out of round causing non sealing problems. for thoes O rings.

They are not that thin or delicate.
 

I used leather in the jaws of curved jaw vise grips and that held the one section firmly enough without damage, but still . . . after cleaning and heat and fluid . . . they wouldn't come apart. So I left well enough alone.

Before I had a chance to tell Harold who did a fine job of putting my rubber back on the rims, that I had tried everything, he grabbed the stem's rubber base in his fist and cranked on the stem's top section with his tire stem pliers. He said, "Better not try that again, I might cause a leak at the base." No kidding!!

So he gave up as well and let them be.
 
Caryc, note the shape of the junk valve stem in my picture.
The core is exposed. You couldn't put air in or check it.
After seeing that, I figured there was nothing to lose.
I had to get it out or replace the tube anyway so I held the tube
portion with a round jaw pair of vice grips and turned the stem
out with another, smaller, pair.
The external threads on the tube had teeth marks from the grips,
but I didn't squeeze hard enough to damage it other than that.
I'm not recommending you do that on yours, especially if they're
still working, that's just where I was at with this one.
No need to fix it until its broken! :)
 
(quoted from post at 17:51:02 11/12/14) Caryc, note the shape of the junk valve stem in my picture.
The core is exposed. You couldn't put air in or check it.
After seeing that, I figured there was nothing to lose.
I had to get it out or replace the tube anyway so I held the tube
portion with a round jaw pair of vice grips and turned the stem
out with another, smaller, pair.
The external threads on the tube had teeth marks from the grips,
but I didn't squeeze hard enough to damage it other than that.
I'm not recommending you do that on yours, especially if they're
still working, that's just where I was at with this one.
No need to fix it until its broken! :)

Got it, thanks
 
like to add that if your local parts places don't have a low pressure tire gauge (which I prefer for rears)
swing by an ATV shop. They always have them.

All my tire gauges, I spray with some solvent/oil after use, like the can of Blaster that is always next to me. Right away, not later.
Don't forget your air chucks too, run some oil thru them right away. Filled tires will ruin them too.
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:22 11/13/14) like to add that if your local parts places don't have a low pressure tire gauge (which I prefer for rears)
swing by an ATV shop. They always have them.

All my tire gauges, I spray with some solvent/oil after use, like the can of Blaster that is always next to me. Right away, not later.
Don't forget your air chucks too, run some oil thru them right away. Filled tires will ruin them too.

I have always done like SouNdguy, I rotate the stem up and add a little air first.
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:22 11/13/14) like to add that if your local parts places don't have a low pressure tire gauge (which I prefer for rears)
swing by an ATV shop. They always have them.

All my tire gauges, I spray with some solvent/oil after use, like the can of Blaster that is always next to me. Right away, not later.
Don't forget your air chucks too, run some oil thru them right away. Filled tires will ruin them too.

I received the gauge that I posted above today. Since it's made for liquid filled tires, it even says "Clean and oil after each use".
 

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