8n hydraulic fluid

todd perry

New User
I know this has been discussed many times on this board and others. Sorry to beat a dead horse but hoping you guys can clarify.

Getting 8n ready to snow plow season here in central PA and want to change hydraulic fluid.

Know #90 mineral gear oil was original spec above freezing. I have an internal leak (lift drops when clutch is in) that I don't want to fix till spring. So thinking the heavier oil would help with the leak but would it be a serious problem in below freezing temps?

Also, I looked at NAPA GEAR OIL SAE 80W-85W-90 (#75213). Would that (or something else) be a better choice?

TIA for your advice, tired of obsessing over this.
 
(quoted from post at 11:10:51 11/06/14) I know this has been discussed many times on this board and others. Sorry to beat a dead horse but hoping you guys can clarify.

Getting 8n ready to snow plow season here in central PA and want to change hydraulic fluid.

Know #90 mineral gear oil was original spec above freezing. I have an internal leak (lift drops when clutch is in) that I don't want to fix till spring. So thinking the heavier oil would help with the leak but would it be a serious problem in below freezing temps?

Also, I looked at NAPA GEAR OIL SAE 80W-85W-90 (#75213). Would that (or something else) be a better choice?

TIA for your advice, tired of obsessing over this.

Obsess some more.

Thicker oil will not fix the leakdown but it may slow it down SLIGHTLY.

In cold weather SAE 90 oil will make hydraulic response slow until the oil warms up.

SAE 80W90 will give you a little quicker response in cold weather.

The real solution is to fix the leak(s) and use a good cold weather oil.

TOH
 
it would probably take all of 4 hours to pull that top cover replace the piston with a naa one with an oring and washer. hone it out some if needed, repalce the cam pin, adjust and slap on with a new gasket.
 
Man, I knew you guys would bust me for not fixing the leak. I pulled the inspection cover and don't see the leak.

The guy I bought the n from apparently didn't believe in maintenance. Done the easy stuff so far, points, engine oil, battery cables, air, etc.

The gear oil seems pretty watery and light weight, too. Can't believe it's the right kind of fluid. Foamy too...does that point to anything?

Probably dreaming but hope a decent cleaning and fresh oil will cure the leak problem.

Soundguy, if the lift still won't hold it may take YOU four hours to repair. I am mechanically "challenged" and this stuff does not come easy (much as I'd like it to).
 
I use the Ford spec 134d hydraulic oil year round,and other than a little leak down with weight,I haven't had any issues. lha
 

I use Travellers Hydraulic fluid from tsc. Which reminds me its on sale for $35/5gallons, time to get some more. Its 134d equivalent and my pocket book likes it better. Its known to get -30 here in the winter with -50 windchills so my tractor likes it better also.
 
watery foamy oil sure ain't good. foam doesn't lube well.

if the lift is up and the inspection cover pulled and you turn it off, you don't see any oil out the cyl mouth?

got a piece of clear hose to slip over the relief and see if it's peeing out the relief as it drops. if it's the relief, you can even change that in sump if you have a cheap wrench you don't mind torching...

ps.. we're not busting ya for the proper fix, just letting you know it's not all that hard. some people think it's a huge deal and thus avoid it, not knowing you can do the full meal deal of pump and top cover in a day if you have the parts on hand.

good luck
 

Believe it or not, my leak down has gotten significantly better and the only change I've made is to install a new hydraulic filter -- my tractor just happened to have one.

If I had my heaviest attachment on, I would hear the lift arms creaking, like a squinking sound, as it leaked and now though it still drifts, no more sound out of the arms.

I have 2 gallons of new oil on hand but haven't gotten around to changing it yet but I'm hoping that changing the oil may slow the slow leak-down even more.
 
(quoted from post at 03:32:30 11/07/14)
I use Travellers Hydraulic fluid from tsc. Which reminds me its on sale for $35/5gallons, time to get some more. Its 134d equivalent and my pocket book likes it better. Its known to get -30 here in the winter with -50 windchills so my tractor likes it better also.

Your tractor don't care about the wind chill! :wink:
 
Thanks for the comments. I'll have to get a brighter light and maybe a mirror, fire her up again and take another look inside.

Think I'll try the fresh oil first and hope for the best. If that's not a fix you almost have me talked into attempting a repair, ordering a shop manual today. Assume that will be good reference?
 
(quoted from post at 20:09:30 11/06/14)
(quoted from post at 03:32:30 11/07/14)
I use Travellers Hydraulic fluid from tsc. Which reminds me its on sale for $35/5gallons, time to get some more. Its 134d equivalent and my pocket book likes it better. Its known to get -30 here in the winter with -50 windchills so my tractor likes it better also.

Your tractor don't care about the wind chill! :wink:

Lol
 
shop manual is a must.

the oil may or may not help, depending on if it is a real leak, or soemthing lucky like a sticky relief, which MIGHT be solved by an oil change.

if you are going to be doing work, i think id advice sropping pump and top cover and clean it out before putting new oil in.. that would be my recomendation.

if you can't swing that now, i'd at least flush it good to get water out. put in a couple quarts atf type f or dex / merc 3, about 4 pints 90% rubbing alcohol, and a few quarts of diesel, then give her a victor lap or 2 around the pasture, then drain her.

that should help get much of the water out anyway.

won't cut the packed in crud onthe bottom of the hydro sump.. but will get anything mobile and water..
 
soundguy,

When you do that laps-around-the-pasture flush method, do you drain off any oil first like one does with a crankcase flush?

thanks,
T
 
Gotcha. Don't know what I'm doin but thought maybe I can get my hands down to the bottom of the casing to get the settled gunk stirred up after the original crappy fluid is removed and the and diesel/kero, etc is added?
 
unless you are dropping the pump and pulling the pto.. i'd just get the mobile stuff out. the matted stuff is mor eor less safe there and trying to paw at some of it may actually break more loose than you get out.

if you pulled the pump and pto you could actually clean the sump pretty good in that area.

my 2n had 1.5" of stuff in there that was like rubber it was so thick.

my 8n had a half inch of black slimey grit.
 
there's lots of different leves from full clean to no clean.

if i ever have the trans cover off, i'll open the drain and pressure wash in there too.. it can collect junk just as well. axle trumpets coming off let you get the rest of the cavity the pto runs thru celan..e tc. e tc.
 

You wrote:
" the matted stuff is mor eor less safe there and trying to paw at some of it may actually break more loose than you get out."

That's [u:9e92437420]exactly[/u:9e92437420] what I thought when I first heard about that and so I decided to leave it alone but keep my filter fresh.

thanks
 
My experience:

It was warm in the spring, I plowed my truck patches, so the tractor was at normal operating temperature.

I open the sump drains and let the hydraulic transmission oil drain out for 6 hrs, until there was just a very small stream still coming out.

Then added back 90 weight mineral oil from NAPA.

lift system works good, but during the winter months it's slow. However once the tractor warms up it works fine, just take a short while to warm up.

If I had it to do over again I might add 10w30 or 15w40 motor oil rather than 90 weight mineral oil.

Just my two cents! If the lift is working ok, do not know if I would add any cleaners, you might not get it all out or they would start breaking down a bunch of stuff that would be best left alone inside the sump.

The slow hydraulic pump in the winter is a pain, but these tractors are 60 years old, you get what you pay for.
 
(quoted from post at 17:04:51 11/06/14)

If I had it to do over again I might add 10w30 or 15w40 motor oil rather than 90 weight mineral oil.

Why? Would you put gear oil in your engine? Engine oil has none of the wear additives needed for gear oils and a lot of additives that you [u:225c3451d5]DON'T[/u:225c3451d5] want in there. A good quality UTF has the viscosity you are after with an additive package tailored specifically for hydraulic, transmission, and final drive applications. Lot's of time and expense went into finding the best formulations for the two different applications for a very good reason.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 19:18:43 11/06/14) I must have missed something-I don't think he put 90
wt gear oil in his engine..

Read it again starting with the quoted text. My point was you wouldn't put gear oil in an engine so why would you think engine oil was good in a differential.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 16:41:23 11/06/14) shop manual is a must.

the oil may or may not help, depending on if it is a real leak, or soemthing lucky like a sticky relief, which MIGHT be solved by an oil change.

if you are going to be doing work, i think id advice sropping pump and top cover and clean it out before putting new oil in.. that would be my recomendation.

if you can't swing that now, i'd at least flush it good to get water out. put in a couple quarts atf type f or dex / merc 3, about 4 pints 90% rubbing alcohol, and a few quarts of diesel, then give her a victor lap or 2 around the pasture, then drain her.
that should help get much of the water out anyway.

won't cut the packed in crud onthe bottom of the hydro sump.. but will get anything mobile and water..

Took Sound guys advice few years back. After buying my 8N and noticing that the hydraulic oil was a milky white color I drained out my hydraulic oil and filled it with 4 gallons of diesel 2 quarts 90% alcohol and 2 quarts of ATF.
Drove her down the road for about 4 miles while Raising and lowering the lift.
Filled her back up with 5 gallons of TSC traveler brand ford tractor oil.
Figured the flush couldn't do any more harm than all of the water mixed in the hydraulic fluid Would continue to do if left there.
 
(quoted from post at 01:10:37 11/07/14)
(quoted from post at 19:18:43 11/06/14) I must have missed something-I don't think he put 90
wt gear oil in his engine..

Read it again starting with the quoted text. My point was you wouldn't put gear oil in an engine so why would you think engine oil was good in a differential.

TOH

John(uk),Samn40,and others have all said that Ferguson had recommended using engine oil in cold climate and they use engine oil with no problems.John is a retired Ferguson mechanic and these are his words from another post.
Hi Mike,I don't know what the climate is in Kentucky so I mentioned it as a general option as some do prefer a Multi-grade. But Multi-grade in the transmission will be just fine in there. I queried all this with Castrol Oil sometime ago as we have a lot of tractors operating in cold climates and it does cause problems, I don't mean to say Kentucky is cold, I am just generalising. Castrol told me that the Multi-grade does not have all that much detergent in it and is entirely suitable for our purpose. It is also much better over a larger spread of temperatures as it will be thinner when cold and at least as thick when hot than the GL1. Of those who have changed to the Multi-grade and I have asked them have they noticed any difference in performance every one has said other than the hydraulics now work when it is really cold and they don't have to wait or wait as long for them to warm up the answer was no and everything was just fine. Being as it was something for the guys who operate in very cold conditions, it wasn't just for the USA I asked this, it was for world wide use (Canada and Scandinavia in particular) Apparently all oil has some detergent in it now they told me, the blend of the oil is quite different from how it was originally. I think that having too much detergent could arise from filling up with a Diesel engine oil(which often happens) not from the Multi-grade. If the oil is changed as it should be (every 720 hours) we would have less problems with sludge etc, they say that the oil should be changed every 12 months or 720 hours whichever comes first, just standing the oil deteriorates (like cooking oil does I suppose)Multi-grade does not have as high a content of detergent as we all thought so Castrol Oil told me and it is perfectly safe for use in the Hydraulic system, the problem wasn't so much the detergents in the oil but that the sulfurous content of EP oils that will corrode the yellow metals that make up the shims, bushes and bearings in the back end but even after all the talking we have done about this problem we still get people filling up with EP type oils, I suppose that because they are filling up a Gearbox and a Rear Axle they don't think about the Hydraulic system that also uses the same oil. The numbering of the GL1-90W oil does not help either, some seeing that immediately think of a very heavy and thick oil. I do know that some of the guys on here don't approve of the Multi-grade being suggested as a substitute but the original GL1 oil was specified over 60 years ago, I am sure that there have been some improvements in the oils since then and to our advantage as well especially for those in cold climates...but having said all this, anyone can use whatever oil they want in their tractor all that we can do is offer suggestions and give a good reason for change, making sure that whatever advice we give is correct. No-one is being forced to change and the original spec of the GL1 isn't carved in stone so it can never be altered under pain of death. When I was working on the tractors as long ago as 1955 we had a Multi-grade oil that we used in the Hydraulics because of slow response in our climate in the UK,which isn't particularly cold, dropping a tipping trailer took ages if you didn't use it and we never, ever had any oil related problems through using it. The Oil was given the official blessing from Coventry and I guess they must know a thing or two about their own tractors. I had some reservations at first about using Multi-grade in these old tractors because of all the sludge in the bottom, but when they said that even the so-called straight mineral oil has some detergent in the blend now, then there can't be much, if any, difference between the oils as far as detergent properties are concerned, you just need to change the oils at the specified intervals to help prevent sludge.
 
(quoted from post at 21:03:57 11/06/14)
(quoted from post at 01:10:37 11/07/14)
(quoted from post at 19:18:43 11/06/14) I must have missed something-I don't think he put 90
wt gear oil in his engine..

Read it again starting with the quoted text. My point was you wouldn't put gear oil in an engine so why would you think engine oil was good in a differential.

TOH

John(uk),Samn40,and others have all said that Ferguson had recommended using engine oil in cold climate and they use engine oil with no problems.John is a retired Ferguson mechanic and these are his words from another post.
Hi Mike,I don't know what the climate is in Kentucky so I mentioned it as a general option as some do prefer a Multi-grade. But Multi-grade in the transmission will be just fine in there. I queried all this with Castrol Oil sometime ago as we have a lot of tractors operating in cold climates and it does cause problems, I don't mean to say Kentucky is cold, I am just generalising. Castrol told me that the Multi-grade does not have all that much detergent in it and is entirely suitable for our purpose. It is also much better over a larger spread of temperatures as it will be thinner when cold and at least as thick when hot than the GL1. Of those who have changed to the Multi-grade and I have asked them have they noticed any difference in performance every one has said other than the hydraulics now work when it is really cold and they don't have to wait or wait as long for them to warm up the answer was no and everything was just fine. Being as it was something for the guys who operate in very cold conditions, it wasn't just for the USA I asked this, it was for world wide use (Canada and Scandinavia in particular) Apparently all oil has some detergent in it now they told me, the blend of the oil is quite different from how it was originally. I think that having too much detergent could arise from filling up with a Diesel engine oil(which often happens) not from the Multi-grade. If the oil is changed as it should be (every 720 hours) we would have less problems with sludge etc, they say that the oil should be changed every 12 months or 720 hours whichever comes first, just standing the oil deteriorates (like cooking oil does I suppose)Multi-grade does not have as high a content of detergent as we all thought so Castrol Oil told me and it is perfectly safe for use in the Hydraulic system, the problem wasn't so much the detergents in the oil but that the sulfurous content of EP oils that will corrode the yellow metals that make up the shims, bushes and bearings in the back end but even after all the talking we have done about this problem we still get people filling up with EP type oils, I suppose that because they are filling up a Gearbox and a Rear Axle they don't think about the Hydraulic system that also uses the same oil. The numbering of the GL1-90W oil does not help either, some seeing that immediately think of a very heavy and thick oil. I do know that some of the guys on here don't approve of the Multi-grade being suggested as a substitute but the original GL1 oil was specified over 60 years ago, I am sure that there have been some improvements in the oils since then and to our advantage as well especially for those in cold climates...but having said all this, anyone can use whatever oil they want in their tractor all that we can do is offer suggestions and give a good reason for change, making sure that whatever advice we give is correct. No-one is being forced to change and the original spec of the GL1 isn't carved in stone so it can never be altered under pain of death. When I was working on the tractors as long ago as 1955 we had a Multi-grade oil that we used in the Hydraulics because of slow response in our climate in the UK,which isn't particularly cold, dropping a tipping trailer took ages if you didn't use it and we never, ever had any oil related problems through using it. The Oil was given the official blessing from Coventry and I guess they must know a thing or two about their own tractors. I had some reservations at first about using Multi-grade in these old tractors because of all the sludge in the bottom, but when they said that even the so-called straight mineral oil has some detergent in the blend now, then there can't be much, if any, difference between the oils as far as detergent properties are concerned, you just need to change the oils at the specified intervals to help prevent sludge.

I am aware of Ferguson's (and others) recommendations. Made sense for 1940/50's technology and blending practices but IMO not in today's. You just spent quite a bit of time rationalizing away a host of very real potential problems and pitfalls. But you haven't given even one reason why it is BETTER. It is not going to kill an old tractor but it is far from optimal.

A simple example of one major shortcoming - compare the scuffing performance of an engine oil and a gear lube in the 4 ball EP and wear tests. Yes I know those tests are intended for gear oils and greases and engine oils are not usually subjected to them (AMSOIL marketing BS not withstanding). And that is my point. The 4 ball EP test measures extreme pressure performance in conditions an engine oil does not see but gear oils do. In the 4 ball test engine oils will weld-up long before a GL-3/5 gear oil because they lack a robust (by gear oil standards) EP package. The same goes for GL-1 gear oil - the lowest performing grade of gear lube available today.

Folks can use whatever they want. But I strongly believe understanding the differences in the various products helps people make well informed choices. What was OK and recommended in 1950 might not be so OK or even a good idea in 2014.

My original question remains unanswered - why use an engine oil in the final drive of an old common sump tractor when a modern transmission/hydraulic oil outperforms it in all regards?

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 18:17:21 11/06/14) 8n and naa are slightly different in that respect as the naa has a separate Hyds sump
Not to mention the NAA has an engine driven external pump and
external lines instead of having the pump mounted inside the
sump, submersed in the oil, driven off the PTO shaft.
I sure like the live hydraulics on the '53 and up though! :)
 
Little OT,but in my '88 Toyota P/U,the transmission calls for GL-4,which is not readily available. After contacting several sourses,all telling me that GL-5 will work.I happened upon a site that said[as I already know]that GL-5 will destroy "yellow" metals,such as synchronizers. They recommended 50w oil,which I used,and the shifting is smooth again.
 
(quoted from post at 09:37:07 11/07/14) Little OT,but in my '88 Toyota P/U,the transmission calls for GL-4,which is not readily available. After contacting several sourses,all telling me that GL-5 will work.I happened upon a site that said[as I already know]that GL-5 will destroy "yellow" metals,such as synchronizers. They recommended 50w oil,which I used,and the shifting is smooth again.

Yes - many OEM's recommend motor oil in their transmissions for a variety of reasons.

But yellow metal corrosiveness is another one of those hot button topics where the FUD to signal ratio is extremely high. Let me try to bring that ratio down a bit with a few relevant facts. Not an opinion - facts.

The principle motivation for the GL-4 and Gl-5 classifications is to differentiate their EP performance - GL-5 has to exhibit better performance than GL-4 in the EP wear tests. A GL-5 oil always qualifies as a GL-4 oil on the basis of wear. So when is a GL-5 oil NOT a GL-4 oil?

Answer:

When it exhibits excessive yellow metal corrosiveness in the ASTM D-130 yellow metal corrosion test. In that test a copper test strip is immersed in a sample of the oil that has been heated to 120C and left there for 3 hours. After three hours the test strip is removed and evaluated for corrosion based on the amount of staining that occurred - scores range from 1A (non-corrosive) to 4C(highly corrosive).The GL-5 specification allows a maximum result of 3A on the test. The GL-4 requirement is more stringent and limits the corrosiveness to the 1B (???) level.

Twenty years ago it was not commercially and/or technically feasible to make a oil that could pass the GL-5 EP tests and still pass the GL-4 corrosion test. Today we can and in fact MANY modern GL-5 oils test out at 1B or 1A and are GL-4 compliant in terms of yellow metal corrosiveness. If in doubt look on the label - if it says GL-4 in addition to GL-5 it meets the most stringent corrosion requirements of [u:bc621864f1]both[/u:bc621864f1] classifications and is suitable for use anywhere a GL-4 oil is specified because it IS a GL-4 oil.

After Thought Footnote:

GL-4 and GL-5 are wear protection ratings. The GL-4 category is aimed specifically at lightly loaded differentials AND synchronized transmissions. To that end the industry created a "specialized" formulation of GL-4 oils called Manual Transmission Lubricants (MTL's). MTL's contain friction modifiers not present in differential formulations. The friction modifiers improve the engaement performance of the synchro's resulting in smoother shifting. Since GL-5 is NOT intended for synchronized transmissions they MAY not contain the friction modifiers needed in a transmission." This problem can be further complicated in transaxles with limit slip gearing which requires very specific friction coefficients. That is why some OEM's are very specific about what lubricant to use in their transmissions.

And of course all of that is true of engine oils used in manual transmissions as well.

If you want to read a very informative discussion of the myriad of issues involved with transmssion lubricants try this one paying particular attention to the MTL information from Mr. Molakule:

Gear lUbes

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 17:37:07 11/07/14) Little OT,but in my '88 Toyota P/U,the transmission calls for GL-4,which is not readily available. After contacting several sourses,all telling me that GL-5 will work.I happened upon a site that said[as I already know]that GL-5 will destroy "yellow" metals,such as synchronizers. They recommended 50w oil,which I used,and the shifting is smooth again.

I have put GL5 in many a Toy thru the years and never had a issue... I first used GL5 in 1992 in my personal Toy cuzz it was hard to shift cold, to this day never a issue with it....
 
Do the flush recipe if you feel like it.
Drive it around some, pull the drain plugs.
Let it drain overnight or a day or two.
Fill it up with
65-205 NAPA mineral oil
TSC mineral oil 'for old Ford tractors'
or 80-90 gear oil.
It'll be fine.
Single sump on a N, don't have to worry about
pumping oil thru lines in winter..
Real cold out? just drive it around some before you use the lift.
single sump, the gears will sling that oil and warm it up quick.
I've had a lot of N's, always ran the thick stuff...no issues.

In brutal cold, ya should drive around first anyway to warm up
the engine, steering arms and the grease/oil in the steering box anyway......
(you know you should have stayed in the house when it's so cold, the thing takes 2 hands to steer until that oil in the steering loosens up...... :D )

tip, very cold area, set your blade down on some blocking when you park it. Stops it from freezing to the gound.
And gives the lift a 'head-start' to get the blade in the air for the warm-up test drive.....baja thru the fresh snow fun
 

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