removing hydraulic lift cover 2N

I removed the outer bolts and left the nuts on....I have the top cover loose and it moves around but something is keeping it from coming loose. What do I need to do to get it to lift on off?
 
(quoted from post at 21:59:55 10/24/14)
(quoted from post at 02:45:33 10/25/14) Did you disconnect the control levers from the pump?

No, I haven't. What does it take to do this?
Remove the round inspection cover from the right side with the
dipstick in it. The control levers come down from the top to the
T-handle on the back of the pump. They can be spread apart
to release the T handle from them.
Do you have an I&T FO-4 service manual? I think it shows how
to do it pretty well. If not it would be a good investment. :)
 
There are also four bolts in the center of the top cover -DO NOT REMOVE these!!! They hold the ram cylinder on and in place. You will remove it after you get the top cover off. You first must disconnect the "T" bracket as told by the guys below. You better have an F04 manual handy at least and there is a good video by J&D Productions on do-it-yourself Ford hydraulic repair. they are sold here on this site...

Tim 'PloughNman' Daley(MI)
 


OK....I went and got the FO4 manual. Cover is off. cylinder is off. Im putting o n new cylinder and piston. I got the newer style piston with the oring and flat rubber ring with white strip. Does it matter which ring goes wher
 
(quoted from post at 00:15:35 10/26/14)

OK....I went and got the FO4 manual. Cover is off. cylinder is off. Im putting o n new cylinder and piston. I got the newer style piston with the oring and flat rubber ring with white strip. Does it matter which ring goes wher

YES IT MATTERS! Oring towards the oil!
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:37 10/25/14)
(quoted from post at 00:15:35 10/26/14)

OK....I went and got the FO4 manual. Cover is off. cylinder is off. Im putting o n new cylinder and piston. I got the newer style piston with the oring and flat rubber ring with white strip. Does it matter which ring goes wher

YES IT MATTERS! Oring towards the oil!

Im confused. The o ring fits into the groove of the piston, correct?
The flat gasket wont stretch over the piston, does it just go into the cylinder in front of the piston?
 
(quoted from post at 01:20:06 10/26/14)
(quoted from post at 16:58:37 10/25/14)
(quoted from post at 00:15:35 10/26/14)

OK....I went and got the FO4 manual. Cover is off. cylinder is off. Im putting o n new cylinder and piston. I got the newer style piston with the oring and flat rubber ring with white strip. Does it matter which ring goes wher

YES IT MATTERS! Oring towards the oil!

Im confused. The o ring fits into the groove of the piston, correct?
The flat gasket wont stretch over the piston, does it just go into the cylinder in front of the piston?

they both go into the groove with the oring closest to the oil side. thry soaking the flat one in hot water.

It is a back up ring to protect the oring when under pressure. it has to be there or damage may be done to the oil ring.

I stayed with the steel rings on both of mine and they work just great.
 
(quoted from post at 09:20:06 10/25/14)
(quoted from post at 16:58:37 10/25/14)
(quoted from post at 00:15:35 10/26/14)

OK....I went and got the FO4 manual. Cover is off. cylinder is off. Im putting o n new cylinder and piston. I got the newer style piston with the oring and flat rubber ring with white strip. Does it matter which ring goes wher

YES IT MATTERS! Oring towards the oil!

Im confused. The o ring fits into the groove of the piston, correct?
The flat gasket wont stretch over the piston, does it just go into the cylinder in front of the piston?

Check out this video. It shows someone putting the rings on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcWtNVOxzDg
 


Got it back together this morning. I had screwed up the exhaust control valve when I was first trying to get the cover off. I found all the pieces laying in the bottom of the sump. It took me a while to figure out how to reassemble it and I had to straighten out the bent plunger but it is all together now ang working great.....I'll never try and do this alone again....that cover is heavy
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:28 10/26/14)

Got it back together this morning. I had screwed up the exhaust control valve when I was first trying to get the cover off. I found all the pieces laying in the bottom of the sump. It took me a while to figure out how to reassemble it and I had to straighten out the bent plunger but it is all together now ang working great.....I'll never try and do this alone again....that cover is heavy

Another trick I heard from someone is to get a couple studs the same size as the top cover bolts and screw them in two of the holes in the case. Then when you put your gasket on, the studs will keep the gasket in place as you put the cover back on.

Then just remove the studs and replace the top cover bolts.

An engine hoist is a cheap investment when you compare the trouble it will save you in removing and replacing that top cover.
 

Well...it worked great for a while but after mowing for about an hour, it would get stuck up or down. If I hit a good bump it knocked it loose and it would work properly. It also seemed to be lifting on its own...I'd be mowing and have the bush hog positioned where I wanted it and next thing I know the tail wheel is free spinning in the air.

I'm wondering if the exhaust control valve can be messed up or something
 
(quoted from post at 01:10:34 10/29/14)
Well...it worked great for a while but after mowing for about an hour, it would get stuck up or down. If I hit a good bump it knocked it loose and it would work properly. It also seemed to be lifting on its own...I'd be mowing and have the bush hog positioned where I wanted it and next thing I know the tail wheel is free spinning in the air.

I'm wondering if the exhaust control valve can be messed up or something

The 2n does not have position control. It is either all the way up or all the down, no in between.
others will chime in with more information that could help you
 
The 9N and 2N do not have position control, meaning the 3 pt
doesn't stay where you put it. That was added to the 8N.
You can add it by adding a bolt on position control device like
Zane Sherman's Zane Thang. Contact info here.
 
(quoted from post at 17:47:28 10/28/14) The 9N and 2N do not have position control, meaning the 3 pt
doesn't stay where you put it. That was added to the 8N.
You can add it by adding a bolt on position control device like
Zane Sherman's Zane Thang. Contact info here.

Thanks....do you have any idea as to why it would be getting stuck in a position until I hit a hole or bump knocking it loose?
 
(quoted from post at 13:01:28 10/26/14)

Got it back together this morning. I had screwed up the exhaust control valve when I was first trying to get the cover off. I found all the pieces laying in the bottom of the sump. It took me a while to figure out how to reassemble it and I had to straighten out the bent plunger but it is all together now ang working great.....I'll never try and do this alone again....that cover is heavy
12.99 will get you all the lift/hoist that you need for the top cover.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_material-handling+hoists-lifts-cranes+rope-pulley-hoists
 
(quoted from post at 12:01:22 10/28/14)
(quoted from post at 13:01:28 10/26/14)

Got it back together this morning. I had screwed up the exhaust control valve when I was first trying to get the cover off. I found all the pieces laying in the bottom of the sump. It took me a while to figure out how to reassemble it and I had to straighten out the bent plunger but it is all together now ang working great.....I'll never try and do this alone again....that cover is heavy
12.99 will get you all the lift/hoist that you need for the top cover.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_material-handling+hoists-lifts-cranes+rope-pulley-hoists

That's assuming that you have an overhead beam to hook it up to. Or maybe a large tree branch overhanging your driveway. Or you could build yourself an "A" frame of sorts.
 
(quoted from post at 15:32:54 10/28/14)
(quoted from post at 12:01:22 10/28/14)
(quoted from post at 13:01:28 10/26/14)

Got it back together this morning. I had screwed up the exhaust control valve when I was first trying to get the cover off. I found all the pieces laying in the bottom of the sump. It took me a while to figure out how to reassemble it and I had to straighten out the bent plunger but it is all together now ang working great.....I'll never try and do this alone again....that cover is heavy
12.99 will get you all the lift/hoist that you need for the top cover.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_material-handling+hoists-lifts-cranes+rope-pulley-hoists

That's assuming that you have an overhead beam to hook it up to. Or maybe a large tree branch overhanging your driveway. Or you could build yourself an "A" frame of sorts.
,,,,,,,or a sky-hook. :wink:
 
Ideas, yes. Definitive answers no.
While you have it apart, make sure your lift arms do not bind.
The ones on the back of the top cover attached to the rock
shaft, not the lowers. There are brass bushings in each side.
Others can help you more with the internals, but a good cleaning
and new oil can do wonders for sticking systems.
Since you already have it apart, now would be a good time.
Dry gaskets when it goes back together. Avoid RTV, etc.
 

It's painful watching the young lady in the tutorial video beating on the cylinder mount bolts. I would definitely suggest you don't follow her lead there Mike.
 
(quoted from post at 11:14:22 10/29/14)
It's painful watching the young lady in the tutorial video beating on the cylinder mount bolts. I would definitely suggest you don't follow her lead there Mike.

Yeah, that made me cringe a little also.
 
(quoted from post at 21:13:50 10/28/14) Ideas, yes. Definitive answers no.
While you have it apart, make sure your lift arms do not bind.
The ones on the back of the top cover attached to the rock
shaft, not the lowers. There are brass bushings in each side.
Others can help you more with the internals, but a good cleaning
and new oil can do wonders for sticking systems.
Since you already have it apart, now would be a good time.
Dry gaskets when it goes back together. Avoid RTV, etc.

I went back and removed the hyd lift cover again (used a chain fall and the stud trick this time), PTO shaft, pump assembly and flushed it out with kerosene. I wiped up the remainder of the sediment with paper towels and flushed again.

Worked like a charm after that....until my left rear tire went flat :)_
 
(quoted from post at 20:58:29 11/13/14)
(quoted from post at 21:13:50 10/28/14) Ideas, yes. Definitive answers no.
While you have it apart, make sure your lift arms do not bind.
The ones on the back of the top cover attached to the rock
shaft, not the lowers. There are brass bushings in each side.
Others can help you more with the internals, but a good cleaning
and new oil can do wonders for sticking systems.
Since you already have it apart, now would be a good time.
Dry gaskets when it goes back together. Avoid RTV, etc.

I went back and removed the hyd lift cover again (used a chain fall and the stud trick this time), PTO shaft, pump assembly and flushed it out with kerosene. I wiped up the remainder of the sediment with paper towels and flushed again.

Worked like a charm after that....until my left rear tire went flat :)_
Glad to hear you got it fixed, thanks for the follow up post!
Flat tires are not fun. Especially if they're loaded.
Hopefully its just the valve core. Never happens that way
around here, but one can hope! :)
 

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