One more painting Question

Ed on the left hand margin under Research you can click on paint codes. I have painted my share of Fords and I found ACE Hardware has tractor paint it is very forgiving and buffs out nice. You can buy rattle cans or they can mix it for spray gun. Their Safety Red color is as close to perfect match as you can get. They have a Ford Gray that I like and both are a ACE paint. I forgot to mention on your ? of prepping for painting I do dismantle all exterior parts to prep and paint.
 
Have Fun.
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I was never too concerned with
exacto-mundo-perfect paint match as mine are just work tractors anyway.
If you go to Fleet Farm or Tractor Supply they will have not top quality but good quality tractor paint there that will be labled Ford red and Ford gray.
Make sure you buy the hardener for it.
I just use lacquer thinner and skip the more expensive reducer.
Will look good, last good.
I do not like the rattle can stuff much except to touch up bolts, etc. My experience with rattle can is it fades faster, does not shine as well and is not as tough.
I have had a good quality Devilbiss spray gun for 30 years and use that. But you can go to Harbor Fright and get one that is pretty good for pretty cheap now days.
Also go to any body shop supply store or auto body paint place and buy your self a mixing cup for a couple of bucks. If you clean it up it will last for years. Handy to get your paint/thinner/hardener ratios right.
Follow instructions on the cans to mix.
When you paint you want to put on a fog coat which wont cover completely. Wait about 10-15 mins and second coat which should cover. Another 10-15 mins then add a little bit more thinner to your paint for the flash coat to make it shine.
Practice first on the chassis first and then on the inside of a fenders to get the hang of it.
Lastly, You will need a pressure regulator as you need to reduce your gun pressure.
I run about 35 psi. Don't know if that's what the big boys run but it works for me.
Most small or homeowner type air compressors will be sufficient - even if you have to wait for it to catch up now and then - and will have a regulator built into it and that is fine.
I have an inline regulator that has the dryer on it but you don't need that expense.
I really like doing the paint - after all the prep work is done of course. Lot of satisfaction seeing all your work come to fruition.
Runs are inevitable so don't sweat it. It will still look great. Or if you really care you can wash the paint off with thinner while it's still wet and do it again tomorrow. BTDT
Sorry this got so long...

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Good advice Ultradog!
I disagree with the thinner recommendation, I think you should
use the type of reducer recommended by the paint manufacturer.
Not necessarily the brand, but the same type. Alkyd Enamel, etc.
Chemical reactions are not always predictable.

If you haven't tried one, I urge you to try the HVLP guns.
They're quite slick and will work right down to the last drop.
A lot less overspray, less air volume required.

I gave away a box full of DeVilbiss and Binks suction guns
this past summer. I just didn't use them any more.

On sale, the cheap HVLP's are $10 at HF.
Worth that just for the experience! :)
 

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