Crank pully removal

Is is possible to remove the crank pully to add pump adapter
just by removing the hood and rad and leaving the front end
intackt, reason being I just installed a loader for front and last
thing to do is swap my crank pully out and really don't wanna
remove the loader stuff I just finished installing. Has anyone
done this?
 
Depends on what tractor I suppose.
On my 9N I had to remove the front axle bolster.
I took off one side radius rod and drag link then
swung it to the side.
 
(quoted from post at 23:13:06 10/22/14) Is is possible to remove the crank pully to add pump adapter
just by removing the hood and rad and leaving the front end
intackt, reason being I just installed a loader for front and last
thing to do is swap my crank pully out and really don't wanna
remove the loader stuff I just finished installing. Has anyone
done this?

Installing the crankshaft pulley and hub is the first not last step. Should have done that BEFORE you hung the loader. Bite the bullet and remove the loader. - it will be less work that trying to get that pulley on with the loader in place.

TOH
 
Your best bet is to get a hold of an install manual for your specific loader and follow through with the install steps.

As TOH said, installing the crank pulley is covered in the first couple of steps.
 
Yes as stated I now realize now I should have done it first, with the hood and rad off I can get a wrench on it, mainly wondering if I do manage to fumble it off, will it come out and go back in with the adapter on it? Someone must have attempted this? How did it go?
 
I replace the pump drive on a 2N. The old one had the four prongs, which had damaged the crank pulley so it could not be reused. Changed over to the splined shaft drive. I had to tear the front end apart to get enough clearance to work on it. While it may be possible to just barely get everything to go in without a teardown, I really doubt it. As a side benefit, I was lucky -- my wife walked through the garage just at the middle of the job. The garage looked like the tractor had exploded and the look she gave me was priceless!
 
(quoted from post at 16:23:50 10/23/14) Yes as stated I now realize now I should have done it first, with the hood and rad off I can get a wrench on it, mainly wondering if I do manage to fumble it off, will it come out and go back in with the adapter on it? Someone must have attempted this? How did it go?

My recommendation has not changed.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 16:23:50 10/23/14) Yes as stated I now realize now I should have done it first, with the hood and rad off I can get a wrench on it, mainly wondering if I do manage to fumble it off, will it come out and go back in with the adapter on it? Someone must have attempted this? How did it go?
Yep, tried it. That's how I got to my first answer! :lol:
I'm not saying it can't be done, but I couldn't get mine off.

It's really not much more work than removing the hood.
I removed the radiator too, but you wouldn't have to, just the hoses,
but two more bolts and you reduce the risk of damaging the radiator.

There are, what, four bolts in that bolster? One tie rod end and
a radius rod pin. (or ball socket if you take it loose at the rear.
I took it loose at the rear and used it as a handle to move the
front end around. I used wooden blocks as cribbing under the
oil pan to hold the tractor steady.

I'm not sure what loader you have, but I think the frame on
mine could be lowered enough on the front to let the bolster
move forward and swing out to the side.

Good time to do the axle pin if needed. You can get to the back
of it and drive it out instead of trying to pull it out the front.

Let us know what you come up with.
Always nice to learn a new method of doing a job.
 

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