My latest project tractor 52 8N s/m pos/gd 6V has only 2 more steps to the finish line. I replaced everything in the electrical sys except the starter. It is no secret I am electrically challenged but I decided to tackle a 101 8N as I think the N is very basic Inter-comb-eng and a simple basic rewire job to cut my teeth on. I used Archives, JMOR diagrams and Bruce 75 tips along the way. Here is the short of it. Ran a new wiring harness and got it running but I still fail to understand the amp meter part. It is the 30 amp 2 post no loop gauge, harness is no loop.Black plastic shield on Yellow battery wire from solenoid and a plain Yellow from Bat on regulator. I polarized the sys. When starting the amp meter it moves as motor cranks but stays close to 0 on start up, no matter the rpms and no drop with lights on. A picture of how the back of amp meter connection goes would help. I may have it right and not know it. I have another 52 that it pegs the amp meter + when I give it rpms. It is the original face type with the loop. It has a loader and the wires are dirt covered and hard to see due to the loader so I cant use it as a cheater. Thanks
- Thread starter WW2N
- Start date
WW2N........well ya kinda gotter rite. Surprizeingly enuff, electrons don't care what color the insulation is, but you should kinda care.
The 2-post ammeter is a thru device...ie...electrons go thru the ammeter. Iff'n they didn't, yer 8N sparkies wouldn't sparkle, and yer battery wouldn't charge.
Remember, yer starter motor draws boeu-heasses amps (about 150-amps) and does NOT go thru yer ammeter. And iff'n yer 2-post ammeter was miss-connected...ie...(+) swapped with (-) yer center reading ammeter would indicate the other way (-) fer charging yer battery. We are "trained" to assimilate (+) with charging.
Yeah, yer 6-volt 8N came from the factory POSITIVE (+) ground. There are some obscure advantages fer positive (+) ground but I ain't gonna discuss them at this time.
As a general instruction, you want yer roundcan sparkie coil to be powered THRU yer ignition switch. Connect the ignition switch wire to coil (-) and the other post to the points 'cuz yer (+) ground.
Unfortunately, the 8N ignition switch is NOT very robust and is a frequent source of poor ignition. After replacing mine 3-times in one summer, I bought a 25-amp marine grade toggle switch, who needs keys enny ways?
As fer yer complaint about non-charging after starting, yer ignition system really takes about 5-amps of current. So iff'n yer 0-center ammeter was 50-amps full scale, you wouldn't read much on the ammeter indicator. Your 30-amp meter should still read about 5-amps when running. You may need bi-focals, eh?
As fer yer other 52-8N that pegs the ammeter when goosed, I'd suspect a semi-dead battery......electrical Dell
The 2-post ammeter is a thru device...ie...electrons go thru the ammeter. Iff'n they didn't, yer 8N sparkies wouldn't sparkle, and yer battery wouldn't charge.
Remember, yer starter motor draws boeu-heasses amps (about 150-amps) and does NOT go thru yer ammeter. And iff'n yer 2-post ammeter was miss-connected...ie...(+) swapped with (-) yer center reading ammeter would indicate the other way (-) fer charging yer battery. We are "trained" to assimilate (+) with charging.
Yeah, yer 6-volt 8N came from the factory POSITIVE (+) ground. There are some obscure advantages fer positive (+) ground but I ain't gonna discuss them at this time.
As a general instruction, you want yer roundcan sparkie coil to be powered THRU yer ignition switch. Connect the ignition switch wire to coil (-) and the other post to the points 'cuz yer (+) ground.
Unfortunately, the 8N ignition switch is NOT very robust and is a frequent source of poor ignition. After replacing mine 3-times in one summer, I bought a 25-amp marine grade toggle switch, who needs keys enny ways?
As fer yer complaint about non-charging after starting, yer ignition system really takes about 5-amps of current. So iff'n yer 0-center ammeter was 50-amps full scale, you wouldn't read much on the ammeter indicator. Your 30-amp meter should still read about 5-amps when running. You may need bi-focals, eh?
As fer yer other 52-8N that pegs the ammeter when goosed, I'd suspect a semi-dead battery......electrical Dell
greywolf224
Member
Dell Just thinking and you can tell me to go away....Just as a quickie test..you think he could short the genny field to grd for a few seconds and see if the amp meter jumps to positive side? If it does than he has a balanced electrical system.
And I agree, I would tend to be looking at his other tractors electrical system. Seems like the battery isn't holding a charge too well.
n this photo, the wire coming out of harness and passing through the ammeter loop (from center of tractor toward outside, i.e., toward the right in photo or toward the left as viewed from driver's seat) has a clear sheath on it & your a black sheath. This should connect to the positive terminal of the ammeter, as it is the battery connection (yes, I know that it is the battery's negative post). The negative ammeter post should have a wire connecting it to the 3rd terminal of the resistor block if your tractor had a front mount distributor (as shown here), but since you have a side mount distributor & no resistor block & instead, have a two terminal block, then this ammeter negative post will go to the bottom terminal of your 2-terminal block. The other two wires on that bottom terminal will be one going to ignition switch (small black wire in photo) and the un-sheathed heavy yellow wire coming from the voltage regulator BATT terminal. The terminal block top terminal will have the small wire from the ignition switch and the wire going to the ignition coil's negative terminal. You did not say where your light get power, but it should be from the bottom terminal of the 2-terminal block. If lights get power from the battery (solenoid post, battery side (+) of ammeter, then lighting current will NOT register on your ammeter. As for ign current registering on ammeter, it will be very small. Approximately 4 amperes with key on, engine stopped in such position as to have the points closed. When running the average current drain of the ignition will be approximately 1/3 of that 4 amps or about 1.3 amperes & nearly impossible to discern on a 30amp meter scale. This 1/3 is due to combination of dwell & the L/R exponential charging current of the ignition coil.
It's possible that your ammeter is bad. If you get a
clamp-on ammeter and clamp it over either battery
cable during running,you'll either get a reading or
not!!I'm not as familiar with the charging system of
the 8n,but they're similar to the old generator
style cars.90% of the charging problems could be
traced to a shorted or broken wire,or a bad
regulator. lha
clamp-on ammeter and clamp it over either battery
cable during running,you'll either get a reading or
not!!I'm not as familiar with the charging system of
the 8n,but they're similar to the old generator
style cars.90% of the charging problems could be
traced to a shorted or broken wire,or a bad
regulator. lha
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
after following JMOR's excellent post,
to check your work with no tools, just walk up to your tractor with it not running and pull the lights on.
meter deflect towards the 'discharge' side? ok, good.
start it up with the lights still on, and the needle should move to the right.(even if it stays close to center, it will move right if charging) ok, it's charging.
whether the output is enough to balance and keep it charged, time will tell.
quick test the output? leave those lights on for a spell, then start it. That should get that needle way right to top off the charge with a good charging system.
to check your work with no tools, just walk up to your tractor with it not running and pull the lights on.
meter deflect towards the 'discharge' side? ok, good.
start it up with the lights still on, and the needle should move to the right.(even if it stays close to center, it will move right if charging) ok, it's charging.
whether the output is enough to balance and keep it charged, time will tell.
quick test the output? leave those lights on for a spell, then start it. That should get that needle way right to top off the charge with a good charging system.
(quoted from post at 13:53:42 10/20/14)one. Anything else?(quoted from post at 16:43:19 10/20/14)(quoted from post at 06:35:26 10/20/14) "Thank you, thank you", as Elvis always said!
Not to be picky but you need to add a "thank you very much" to that. :wink:
No...Thank you very much. :mrgreen:
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