Ford 2N running issue

jer2349

New User
Hi, I am new to the forum & would like a little help b4 I go nuts trouble shooting this 2N. The following is what I have completed thus far.
1. It was converted to a 12V system.
2. New points,rotor,dist cap,capacator,plug wires,12V magnito,resistor (as per 12 V spec)
3. Dry compression test was 60 on all 4 cylinders.

It starts & runs great when I bypass the resistor. It will not start with the resister in place. It will back fire & hit on an occasional cylinder. Almost seems like a timeing issue. I then jump the resistor & all is fine. Could it possibly be a bad new magnito? Help, while I still have a little hair left. Thanks!!
 
When you did the compression test,did you open the
carb all the way? On the second pass,did you squirt
some oil into the cylinders? If this reading is
right,You don't have enough compression to run the
engine. You should have at least 100 PSI.
 
Magneto?

I don't think so.

You probably have a front distributor.

And, if it runs w/ the resistor jumped, it's not out of time.

So answer a few questions for us & we'll help you get it running.

Does it really have a magneto or a front distributor (in the picture)?

Have you messed w/ the timing?

What resistor(s) are on the tractor? (one or both, as in the picture)

Does it have a 12v coil?
IMG_20140929_102542_438_zpsc6a740eb.jpg

Coil1.jpg

75 Tips
 
"12V magnito"
?? Coil ??
Unlikely that you 2N has a magneto. Probably has a
front mount distributor with a black square coil
on top of it.

If you have a 12 volt coil you only need the OEM
ballast resistor (located on the engine side of
the dash).
 
Compression is not your problem since it starts
and runs fine without the resistor. Your problem
is too many or the wrong resistor. Read Bruce's
post.
 

My mistake, it is the coil as you have pictured. The resistor is
Ford 2N Resistor Description: For 8N, 9N, 2N, and 4 cylinder engines on 600 - 4000 tractors 1955-1964. Used in ignition system with 12-volt square coil, resistance = .6 ohms.
Resistor Part Number 8NE10306

No, I didn't mess with the timing. Thanks Wrong resistor?
 
(quoted from post at 08:37:01 10/15/14) Hi, I am new to the forum & would like a little help b4 I go nuts trouble shooting this 2N. The following is what I have completed thus far.
1. It was converted to a 12V system.
2. New points,rotor,dist cap,capacator,plug wires,12V magnito,resistor (as per 12 V spec)
3. Dry compression test was 60 on all 4 cylinders.

It starts & runs great when I bypass the resistor. It will not start with the resister in place. It will back fire & hit on an occasional cylinder. Almost seems like a timeing issue. I then jump the resistor & all is fine. Could it possibly be a bad new magnito? Help, while I still have a little hair left. Thanks!!
 
I had a similiar problem. 12volt updates can add an issue or two. After your tractor has started with the jumper in place remove the jumper after a minute or so of running. If it runs OK the problem is the spark is too week to fire on low compression and cold gas. You are probably flooding the spark plugs, hence to poor running. I modifed my starting circuit with aresister in parallel with the existing resistor to give the coil more current when starting.
 
"resister in parallel with the existing resistor to give the coil
more current when starting."

A resistor in parallel with the existing resistor would give the
coil more current all the time, not just on start up and could
burn the coil up.

The purpose of the wire wound original ballast resistor is to
have a low resistance at cold start up and then increase
resistance when it is heated while running, reducing the current.
Hence, Bruce's question on which resistors were installed.

If it is a 12V coil, all that is needed is the original ballast resistor.
If it is a 6V coil, you would need that plus an appropriately sized
additional resistor. Easiest to use a 12V coil and the wire wound.
 
(quoted from post at 22:03:54 10/15/14) "resister in parallel with the existing resistor to give the coil
more current when starting."

A resistor in parallel with the existing resistor would give the
coil more current all the time, not just on start up and could
burn the coil up.

The purpose of the wire wound original ballast resistor is to
have a low resistance at cold start up and then increase
resistance when it is heated while running, reducing the current.
Hence, Bruce's question on which resistors were installed.



Sorry I ment just having the resistor in parellel during starting. It would require a relay in parellel with the starting circiut. Not most convenient but it does work.

If it is a 12V coil, all that is needed is the original ballast resistor.
If it is a 6V coil, you would need that plus an appropriately sized
additional resistor. Easiest to use a 12V coil and the wire wound.
 

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