Pete(Fl)

Member
I have 2 hat style rims. The inside sleeves that covers the hats are junk. Any suggestions on how to replace them. Thanks, Pete.
 
you can tack in some sheet metal if you want.

i've seen guys braze or solder in roofing tin strips, then take a ballpeen hammer to the edges to round them.
 
I took a section to 2 local metal-fab shops and they said no can do. I thought about pouring lead in the void but... there I go thinking again.
 
pretty useless fab shops if they can't do what 90% of the farmers and hobbiests here do.

As for filling them. I've seen people pour concrete too. ;)

as has been said. once you clean the rust out and paint them.. you have plenty of options for filling the valley. everything from a patch panel to some sort of 'plug' material to fill the void.
 
This isn't the biggest town by any means. The one shop can make the shape but not the circle. And on top of that the cost to set it up would be to great.
 
ahh, I see, they are dumb smart people.

In reality, all you need is a strip of metal of the correct width. it need not be pre bent to a ring.

get it on square and tack it on one end. bend it around with a ratchet strap and marke it and tack it and go.
 
Hat rims are over rated except to the sphincterally challenged.
I had a friend who spent a bunch of time and money restoring his hat rims. He cut the inner band out, sandblasted them, welded new bands in, then rolled primer around inside to preserve them.
About a year later the holes where the bolts go through started to wallow out because the metal around them was so thin.
He scrapped them and bought new loop rims.
Done.
 
I'm one of the "sphincterally challenged" that UD referred to.
I would not consider and N "restored" without them.
That said, most truly restored tractors don't do much work.
For my workers I buy the 6 loop rims as he suggested.
I bought one two weeks ago. They're less than $140 delivered.
Figure your time, welding/brazing rod, gas, electricity, etc.

I don't trash the hat rims though, I fix them pretty much as SG said.
Last week I fixed one of a pair of PA rims for my 960 too.
Can't just buy a replacement for those!
These only needed the valve stem hole fixed, but I did them
much the same way. I cut a piece of sheet metal, bent it to fit
the side form of the rim, tacked one end down square, bent it
around with a bit of warming so it didn't kink and then tacked
the other end. When that was done I put a few more spot welds
on it, ground them down smooth and brazed the rest.
Ground it down again, cleaned, primed and painted it.
If you have any gaps, you can fill them in with QuickSteel or
possibly even JB-Weld to smooth it out so it doesn't pinch a tube.
As long as that patch is solidly attached and smooth.

Shoot, this hole was covered with duct tape! LOL
mvphoto11319.jpg
 

Here's a laugh for you.
I put my hat wheels on the tractor so that on both wheels, have the disk through bolts at the same place in rotation. In rainy weather, which we have tons of in winter, I'll park the tractor so no hat ring hole is dead center bottom. When my wide rims collect a pool of water (which I've already seen) it won't get into the channel through the bolt hole. :D

I only had one or two pin holes from the ring to the inside which I brazed and then I primer'd and marine enamel'd the snot out of the insides. I could have done a wrap of fiberglass or bondo I suppose, but I'm thinking they will outlive me if I keep the water out of the hat rings. I silicone sealed the bolts as well.

New idea:
Two holes with pipe plugs in the hat ring 180 degrees apart.
Remove both plugs
Rotate so the holes are top and bottom
Blow compressed air into the top plug hole and I'd bet you'll see moisture fly out the bottom hole.

signed,
Rube Goldberg
 
[i:654c4848f0]"I'm one of the "sphincterally challenged" that UD referred to."[/i:654c4848f0]

LOL
Maybe that was a little harsh of me.
Purist would have been a kinder term?
I do see a lot of threads about restoring/repairing hat rims though.
Yet ultimately I think that the hat rims and solid centers were not as well developed a system as the 1955 and later looped rims with scalloped centers.
 
the scalloped rims are sure as heck alot easier to manipulate when putting a rim on, since you can kinda grab it to turn it a bit.
 
round and round with the metal flashing,
round and round with the duct tape,
a strap of the old innertube,
put it back in the field.

Bet ya can't tell which of my hat rims have this 'repair' :D

I like hoop rims and scalloped centers too.
handy place to attach the tarp ropes.
 
If you're trying to sell a tractor, just don't mentioned that the rims are hooped . . . might jeopardize the sale. :)

For multi small holes on the inside of the rim at the ring, Bondo would be perfect and easy to smooth out. This summer I went overkill on my '54 International gas tank. I brazed up all the pin holes and beefed up thin areas with loads of brass, but then also used Bondo over every inch of the bottom. I could have just used the Bondo or the brass. The 3M people assure that their product is perfect for gas tank bottoms with pin holes.

Perfect, quick and easy for the insides of Hat rims especially where holes through are minimal and small.
 
(quoted from post at 08:52:21 10/08/14) [i:76027745eb]"I'm one of the "sphincterally challenged" that UD referred to."[/i:76027745eb]

LOL
Maybe that was a little harsh of me.
Purist would have been a kinder term?
I do see a lot of threads about restoring/repairing hat rims though.
Yet ultimately I think that the hat rims and solid centers were not as well developed a system as the 1955 and later looped rims with scalloped centers.
Not sure how I missed your reply UD, but I agree with you.
Most everything Ford did got better as they learned and progressed.
A little harsh? Nah, I figured if the shoe fit..... LOL
 

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