One more question before the snow falls.....

This is in reference to a 47 2N, front mount dist. and overall, stock setup w/6volt system.

I believe my battery has all but expired. It's going on 3-1/2 - 4 years old and was used with the gen that came with the tractor. That gen never showed me much of anything on the gauge but that gen has been replaced and the ammeter now reads correctly. So, with a suspect battery even though it has always been on a trickle charger, it seems the starter button doesn't function anymore. I started it last evening to move it to a safer place by jumping the starter relay with a wrench. A new battery is on order but do you feel this will bring the starter button back to life? All connections are clean and tight. The starter button has worked always before once the shifter is wiggled properly into neutral :)

Thanks in advance,
John
 
I had one that was worn and the rod coming thru the trans would not activate it. Anyway, you can remove the starter button and test it on the bench.
 
first lets definitively decide if you really have a 9n/2n or an 8n

does it have a start relay or manual start switch?

a start relay was stock on an 8n, a manual switch on a 9n/2n.. which also has a 3spd tranny.

if it is a 9n/2n, and you can bar it over at the manual switch with a tool to short it.. then it is not a battery issue preventing the switch from working, but rather likely wear inthe mechanical linkage preventing the switch to be pushed enough, OR the switch is bad.

I have seen people sorta fix the linkage issue by adding a shim to the plunger on the switch.. the switch can be remove and checked with an ohm meter ( or checked by unhooking without removal. )
 
Hi Guy,

It's a 2N. Shorting it is what I did to get it started last night, and yes, this is a 3 spd tranny. Wear in the linkage makes sense to me. That thing can unbolted and removed from the front of the steering column?

John
 
to get all the mechanical linkage parts out.. sure. just to remove the switch ( it's not a relay ).. nope.
 
Okay but the switch pushes a rod into the relay to bump the starter over? Trying to picture this in my mind. I have a FO-4 but haven't looked that up yet.
 
Your stuck on the definitions. On the 2/9 it is a switch that is purely activated by the mechanics of the push button on the operator side of the column via the rod through the column, closing the contacts in the switch, making the circuit. I agree it does look like a relay though. What most would call a relay is not vastly different except that the mechanics of the circuit being made is by an electrical current pulling/pushing the contacts closed via the action of a electrical coil moving the internal mechanism closing the contacts. Both are a switch. In my pee brain I see it like this.......if it just has the heavy leads in and out its a switch that is acted on to close the circuit. If it has other smaller electrical leads to it, it is "relaying" the action of another electrical switch that energizes the coil that closes the switch on the heavy leads, thus it gets called a relay. Both are switches, only one is a relay. Design of the 2/9 allows the switch to be close enough to everything to keep the high amp circuit short enough to be effective but activate the switch mechanically. Later designs were such that distances got greater and the switch needed to be activated electrically by the low amperage circuit that is made when you take what ever action when you want "start", push the button or turn the key, whatever you are doing you are doing it to what most would call the switch in that set up. I also agree that the "button" doesnt look all that different in latter designs, its there on top of the transmission........thats to retain neutral safety which is highly recomended to have functional. The relay setup over the years can be a bit confusion because some were shown positive voltage to start and some were shown ground. Thats often because of how the neutral safety was designed but that is not the topic here. Sorry so long, it makes sense in my mind.
 
One thing to think about when talking about batteries........I had to replace the battery on my 52 8N yesterday. I had purchased it less than seven months ago but when i told dealer about it he advised it had in fact been on shelf two years before i got it. It was replaced with no problem but this told me that they can be old before you put them into service. Problem for sure not dealer but whoever has "Battery rack" there.
 
sorry, still not even close... backwards and incorrect if anythig...

on the op side is a mechanical push putton that when pushed, then slides a rod forward that rod then pushes a SWITCH ( NOT A RELAY ) that is mounted to the enigine side of the column.

the SWITCH comes off to service.

if the mechanical linkaged in the switch and rod wear, it can make it not push the switch enough.. thus the shimming of the switch, since removal of the linkage is more difficult.
 
some of them have stickers on them showing date. ever now and then if the store is not rotating stock one can get pushed back
 
Try the simple, easy stuff first--mine would not start with the push button when I got it..I removed it(pushbutton by shift lever and swished it around in gas-all kinds of greasy oily gunk washed out--then I blew it out with compressed air--been working ever since....
 
Hi Guy,

Yea, I see that now in my F04. I have the switch out / examined it and now think it's a battery issue more than anything. There were several times ( generally after happy hour ) that I hooked the trickle charger up forgetting it's positive ground. This battery is still starting the tractor but will be replaced soon for better reliability throughout the winter months. She still comes to life within the first rev under full choke but must be un-chocked right away or lose it.
 
jleus,

Good description and I thank you. Maybe you need a F04 manual. You won't have to use the brain as much with the diagrams it contains. These tractors are pretty simple really but as with all "things"...there's a science behind it.

John
 
" There were several times ( generally after happy hour ) that I hooked the trickle charger up forgetting it's positive ground. "

You're a lucky man.

I'm surprised that you didn't blow up the battery or burn out the charger.

Check out tip # 60.

Better yet, print it & tape it to the underside of the battery door.
75 Tips
 
I recently bought a 2N and have been learning from all of you wonderful guys on here and my FO-4.. Some idiot in the past modified the factory design on my 2N. He cut 1 ear off of a new starter switch and placed it on the dash. When I took out the original, non working switch the other day I looked in the hole and I could see the activation rod was pushed back towards the shifter and the push button by the shifter is down. I am left to wonder what had went wrong with this in the past to allow the button to be down, but the rod to not be pushed out..

Attached at a couple pictures of what I can see without a major disassemble..

I would like to have the neutral safety installed so my kids who play on "dad's tractor" aren't able to start it in gear. I recently added a key ignition to help, but I am sure they will figure out where I put the key and so on.. I am constantly astounded by the brain power of a 2 and 4 year old when they work together.. I had been just disconnecting the batter, but I found my 4 year old on a stool reconnecting it last week..

Any Ideas? I mean other then a leash.....

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