Crack in the block?

I am looking for some help here! I seem to have a small crack in the block just below the oil filter and freeze plug. Yes I have antifreeze in it but has never showed up until the weather got cold I guess it has been there since I bought the 2N this year.
I have welded cast Iron before but with VERY LITTLE luck, any help on how to get it repaired would be a great help. the engine runs great so don't really want to replace it.
mvphoto11721.jpg
 

Personally I would first try what used to be called LocWeld
by the Loctite people. I know many will say JB weld but not me. :)

I got turned onto Locweld by a British machine shop and classic British car place owner in victoria BC who raved to me one day about having repaired cracked heads in MGB's with total success.

I was sold!!
 

Personally I would first try what used to be called LocWeld
by the Loctite people. I know many will say JB weld but not me. :)

I got turned onto Locweld by a British machine shop and classic British car place owner in victoria BC who raved to me one day about having repaired cracked heads in MGB's with total success.

I was sold!![/quote]
Living in a small town in North MO. I will see if anyone here knows where to get it, but if it is like everything else around here I will have to order it. Thanks for the tip I have heard of using JB weld but have not seen it hold most of the time. also heard of using something called water glass, not sure what it is but has something to do with chicken eggs.
 

Usually web sites list the dealers in your area after you type in your zip.

http://www.carid.com/loctite-automotive-chemicals/loctite-locweld-bonding-compound-24593926.html
 

Usually web sites list the dealers in your area after you type in your zip.

http://www.carid.com/loctite-automotive-chemicals/loctite-locweld-bonding-compound-24593926.html[/quote]
Thanks I will check it out. it si a small leak but with it being water don't want to push my luck well OK lack of luck! :lol: Thanks again for the help
 

Personally I would first try what used to be called LocWeld
by the Loctite people. I know many will say JB weld but not me. :)

I got turned onto Locweld by a British machine shop and classic British car place owner in victoria BC who raved to me one day about having repaired cracked heads in MGB's with total success.

I was sold!![/quote]
Living in a small town in North MO. I will see if anyone here knows where to get it, but if it is like everything else around here I will have to order it. Thanks for the tip I have heard of using JB weld but have not seen it hold most of the time. also heard of using something called water glass, not sure what it is but has something to do with chicken eggs.[/quote]
"Water glass" is Sodium Silicate.
You can buy it at most any drug store. I've used it on small
cracks in car and truck engines with quite a bit of success.
You put it in the radiator like stop leak and run it until hot.
Here's a link to it on Wikipedia.
 
Thanks Royse heard about this stuff when I was living in
Rio Linda Calif. part of Sacramento in the early 70's there was a lot of chicken farmers there thy kept saying how good it worked for small cracks and radiator leaks. But thy use it for something with chickens don't know what for. Never needed it till now, figure if one thing doesn't work will try the other. Just don't like leaks on the Harley or my tractor thy see a lot of use cant afford a breakdown. Now I know what thy used it for in WW! it was used to preserve eggs.
Thanks again you guys are great
 
clean it up completely with a wire wheel and then a buff pad.

i'd then drain the block below the crack, and leave the rad open. at that point i'd flux the bajeebers out of it then silver solder it,or braze it. if it fails, you can always grind that off and weld it.
 
thanks Soundguy looks like it has been welded before but chose not to hold it isn't leaking bad but it is a leak and wont get better by its self. have been looking at a few things to fix it knowing that cast wont take a much heat. And have had poor luck welding old cast iron safe's in the past, some say you can weld it with a wire feed, but I have 2 welders a miller gas 220 AC/DC and a Lincoln buzz box and no wire feed but do have a torch. We don't have a welding shop in this town and its a farming/ranching community. Guess I will clean it all up then see where to go next, silver solder sounds good to me. Thanks for the help
 
grind it flat, then fluxh it then silver solder.

I've done that to a machine that is holding for about 9ys now.. solder is easy..


ps for the buzzbox.. I have a hobart 235xl ac only machine. I buy a rod made for cast and do short stitches with it with some preheat and pinging with a chipping hammer to relieve stress. i'v emade some good cast repairs with it so far.
 
I like easy always look for the easy way as long as it works and works good. My best luck with cast ( safes ) was Tig welding when I had my welding shop in Henderson NV. but that was in the 80's. Think I will try the solder, now for the time to get to it, and I need to fill my bottles that's a 50 mile trip. Thanks again Soundguy
 
I've had good luck in the past with a stick
welder,but you must grind a"v" and making it a
better surface for welding. What I did was to use
the lowest setting possible and a 3/32 or 1/16"rod
and weld about 1" at a time,allowing the metal to
cool. The cracks are caused by too much difference
in heat from one area to another.
 

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