Hydraulic Lift Bleeding down

With a Bush Hog attached, It lifts fine when cold-warm but once hot it doesn't lift much at all (about 6". It will quickly drop when either the clutch is depressed or when I kill it (cold or warm).


I'm ordering the gasket set to take a look but was wondering if ya'll had any idea on which part(s) are most likely needed to correct the problem.

The tractor is at our place in East Texas about 2.5 hours away from me so I have to work on it on the weekends I can get away from the house.

I changed the fluid last weekend but it made no difference.
 
" I'm ordering the gasket set to take a look but was wondering if ya'll had any idea on which part(s) are most likely needed to correct the problem."

Nope.

Not until you do some more checking.

See tip # 16 at the link.

Post back w/ what you find.
75 Tips
 
I will almost bet if you pulled the inspection plate off the one with the dip stick and had a look see you would see oil dripping form the lift cylinder. If that is so you need to replace the piston and seals with the improved NAA style of piston and ring set up and bet that would fix it
 
Dropping when clutched usually means big leak, 'usually' that leak is piston to cyl as old said. But as Bruce said, its not good to order parts before finding out what's broke!
 
Like old and bruce said don't order parts till you know what needs fixing and like SG said 'usually' it's the piston leaking. Another problem area is the relief valve. However mine was not the piston nor the relief valve but rather a blown gasket on the pump which involves dropping the pump. One thing I did was to upgrade to newer style NAA piston and ring and also replaced relief valve since I was in there any ways. I spent under $100 to repair/upgrade. Is also a great time to really clean the sump of any junk.
 

At the price of gas to drive 2.5 hours, I would say that it is a good plan to buy all possible parts. you can always return the unused ones if they hurt the budget.
 
All good information here. If it were me, and I
had a 5 hour round trip to work on it I would
order the cylinder, NAA Piston, O ring and back up
washer, and a pressure relief. You already have
the gaskets. Even if it is the cylinder or piston,
i would change the pressure relief while you have
the oil drained and the top off. You will have
about $160 dollars into the fix. What will 2 trips
to the tractor cost? You should also get the cam
follower pin in case.
 

Ken,

Would all of the parts you suggested he pick up be applicable and advisable for me when I decapitate my NAA hydraulics?

Thanks,
Terry
 
Honestly know notta about a NAA. I do know the NAA
piston works with the 8N. I just finished that
rebuild on mine a couple weeks ago. It was leaking
down fast. Now it holds a disc at least
overnight... I looked through the inspection hole
and saw oil coming from above, but ordered and
changed the pressure relief "while I was in
there".
 
(quoted from post at 15:16:06 10/02/14) All good information here. If it were me, and I
had a 5 hour round trip to work on it I would
order the cylinder, NAA Piston, O ring and back up
washer, and a pressure relief. You already have
the gaskets. Even if it is the cylinder or piston,
i would change the pressure relief while you have
the oil drained and the top off. You will have
about $160 dollars into the fix. What will 2 trips
to the tractor cost? You should also get the cam
follower pin in case.

That is exactly what I have done. The parts will be here next week. I figured that I'd go ahead and replace them while I was in there....they haven't been exposed to human eyes in over 30 years....besides, I know Bruce expects me to do the opposite of what he advises and I wouldn't want to disappoint him :)
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top