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12v conversion instructions

S

seterada

New User
I am converting a 9N to 12v neg ground with kits from YT. My questions to customer service have been refered to this forum as they have never heard of such things being problems.
Alternator kit instructions are showing in the schematic and include a white unmarked 2 contact resistor and show it in line with the oem resistor. Instruction #5 says. " Coil resistor supplied (#1100-0543) must be used with 12 volt coil supplied. Resistor can be placed below original resistor."
Advise I have been seeing does not support this.
Next: The IE kit shows a need for a 3.0 ohm resistor in line between the Ignitor wire and the top square coil
Of the schematics I have been looking at are not as the included with kits and I am the first to ask such a thing from YT. I have learned the RATS command with computers but using the RATI with this isn't working.
 
Regarding the 12 volt conversion, the short answer is tip # 30 at the link.

Just make sure you indeed have a 12 volt coil & use the OEM ballast resistor (as in the picture)

Regarding the EI, call YT back & ask them:

1. Why does the EI need another resistor if I'm using the OEM ballast resistor?

2. If I elect not to use the additional resistor, will it void the warranty on my EI?
IMG_20130902_090805_821_zps36da926e.jpg

75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 07:24:09 09/24/14) I am converting a 9N to 12v neg ground with kits from YT. My questions to customer service have been refered to this forum as they have never heard of such things being problems.
Alternator kit instructions are showing in the schematic and include a white unmarked 2 contact resistor and show it in line with the oem resistor. Instruction #5 says. " Coil resistor supplied (#1100-0543) must be used with 12 volt coil supplied. Resistor can be placed below original resistor."
Advise I have been seeing does not support this.
Next: The IE kit shows a need for a 3.0 ohm resistor in line between the Ignitor wire and the top square coil
Of the schematics I have been looking at are not as the included with kits and I am the first to ask such a thing from YT. I have learned the RATS command with computers but using the RATI with this isn't working.
Click to expand...


That's interesting. I'm using the same IE kit as sold here and a 12 volt conversion that I put together. 10si 3 wire with inline diode. I installed a 12 volt coil when I did it and only use the OE dash mounted resistor pictured in the above post.

Rick
 
Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone... Whoops I see it you meant EI...

Use the OEM resistor tween the switch and the top of the coil on a negative ground system...

No resistor tween the switch and EI module...
 
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
 
(quoted from post at 08:54:54 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
Click to expand...

Kinda like complicating a two car freight train. Careful, I'm old and snarky too.
Need help with RATS and RATI?
All funnin aside thanks for the advice. Fun project to get going again. I've been around this 9N for 40 years where I worked before I bought it 12 years ago. Always running until it smoked the original coil and two more in fast order!
as I pulled the battery I noticed the OEM resistor hasn't been used in that lenght of time. It had to have been bypassed in the 70's Must be some tough original parts.
 
(quoted from post at 08:54:54 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
Click to expand...

Yea I'm retire Army. Ignition, Electronic, 12 Volt should be how it's listed but we gotta keep things simple fer the civilians! Gotta remember, it's the US Army :?. Simple problems require complex solutions. Simple solution ARE NOT TOLLERATED! :shock: :twisted: :twisted:

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 18:28:56 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 08:54:54 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
Click to expand...

Yea I'm retire Army. Ignition, Electronic, 12 Volt should be how it's listed but we gotta keep things simple fer the civilians! Gotta remember, it's the US Army :?. Simple problems require complex solutions. Simple solution ARE NOT TOLLERATED! :shock: :twisted: :twisted:

Rick
Click to expand...
ot it. :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:26 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 18:28:56 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 08:54:54 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
Click to expand...

Yea I'm retire Army. Ignition, Electronic, 12 Volt should be how it's listed but we gotta keep things simple fer the civilians! Gotta remember, it's the US Army :?. Simple problems require complex solutions. Simple solution ARE NOT TOLLERATED! :shock: :twisted: :twisted:

Just US USA 11C lefthanded. Thanks again for the fun and help. Another modification. YT never had this complaint either. Top bracket for bolting to block. Spark plug wire tube in way. Cannot be. Picture in forum. Picture shows someone sawed off and draped wires around bracket. I took a 2 inch by 4 inch 3/18 flat drilled four holes. Two for block and two for bracket. Bolt on and it gives an inch offset. No cutting. Should be included in kit.

Rick
Click to expand...
ot it. :wink:
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 01:59:52 09/25/14)
(quoted from post at 17:03:26 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 18:28:56 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 08:54:54 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
Click to expand...

Yea I'm retire Army. Ignition, Electronic, 12 Volt should be how it's listed but we gotta keep things simple fer the civilians! Gotta remember, it's the US Army :?. Simple problems require complex solutions. Simple solution ARE NOT TOLLERATED! :shock: :twisted: :twisted:

Just US USA 11C lefthanded. Thanks again for the fun and help. Another modification. YT never had this complaint either. Top bracket for bolting to block. Spark plug wire tube in way. Cannot be. Picture in forum. Picture shows someone sawed off and draped wires around bracket. I took a 2 inch by 4 inch 3/18 flat drilled four holes. Two for block and two for bracket. Bolt on and it gives an inch offset. No cutting. Should be included in kit.

Rick
Click to expand...
ot it. :wink:
Click to expand...
/quote]


11C? As in mortars? Me too. D/8/3, Ft Gordon GA 1968. Then jump school at Benning and Special Forces at Bragg
05B4S there.
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 18:16:07 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 01:59:52 09/25/14)
(quoted from post at 17:03:26 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 18:28:56 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 08:54:54 09/24/14)
(quoted from post at 11:50:16 09/24/14) Whut izz IE,,, throw me a bone...
Click to expand...
aybe he is ex-military, where electronic ignition would be, "Ignition, Electronic". As opposed to "Ignition, breaker points type". :)
Click to expand...

Yea I'm retire Army. Ignition, Electronic, 12 Volt should be how it's listed but we gotta keep things simple fer the civilians! Gotta remember, it's the US Army :?. Simple problems require complex solutions. Simple solution ARE NOT TOLLERATED! :shock: :twisted: :twisted:

Just US USA 11C lefthanded. Thanks again for the fun and help. Another modification. YT never had this complaint either. Top bracket for bolting to block. Spark plug wire tube in way. Cannot be. Picture in forum. Picture shows someone sawed off and draped wires around bracket. I took a 2 inch by 4 inch 3/18 flat drilled four holes. Two for block and two for bracket. Bolt on and it gives an inch offset. No cutting. Should be included in kit.

Rick
Click to expand...
ot it. :wink:
Click to expand...
/quote]


11C? As in mortars? Me too. D/8/3, Ft Gordon GA 1968. Then jump school at Benning and Special Forces at Bragg
05B4S there.
Click to expand...

LOL I was an 11E which changed to 19E the when the M1 came out to 19K. Tanks! My dad, WWII vet, infantry, told me when I went to join in 74 "son, it's easier to ride a weapon than it is to carry one".

Rick
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 22:50:49 09/24/14) LOL I was an 11E which changed to 19E the when the M1 came out to 19K. Tanks! My dad, WWII vet, infantry, told me when I went to join in 74 "son, it's easier to ride a weapon than it is to carry one".
Click to expand...

My dad, Korea vet and carrier aircraft mechanic, always said "Join the one where you take your bunk with you and almost always get hot food that someone else makes for you." :lol:

One of my cousins took his advice and went career navy -- he was an elevator mechanic on the Nimitz.

That cousin's brother didn't listen and went army for one hitch -- he drove a tank in Desert Storm.
 

I can't seem to figure out how to keep all the posts from tracking me so bear with me. Got it all together with all your help so many thanks. Another tidbit for those following this is the first time it didn't work. No spark. I have a pacer and defib device so I must be careful. Can't grab a wire like years ago. Putting the new 12v coil on felt overly tough to push down. I removed the distributer again " these people that brag they can have it off in 15 minutes I'd like to see" It takes me a half hour to get the steering wheel, hood and radiator off and longer especially if there is gas in the tank. But anyway I digress. When I took it to the work bench and tried to analize I found that the pigtail on the coil was too long and bent when assembled to touch the plate retaining ring and apparently shorting it out. I made the adjustment, reassembled, forgot I had the throttle wide open and it roared to life. The old OEM resistor still worked and let 1.4 whatevers through a ohm meter. Many thanks again. Dave of the hinterland
 
" " these people that brag they can have it off in 15 minutes I'd like to see" It takes me a half hour to get the steering wheel, hood and radiator off and longer especially if there is gas in the tank."

You are kidding us, right?

You can't be serious about removing the hood to get the distributor off.

The distributor comes off in 5 minutes........because it's not necessary to remove the hood.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 16:59:24 09/26/14)
I removed the distributer again " these people that brag they can have it off in 15 minutes I'd like to see" It takes me a half hour to get the steering wheel, hood and radiator off and longer especially if there is gas in the tank.
Click to expand...

Dave...

You're not the first one I've heard of to do it that way, but next time, try reaching in to the distributor first. It's a little cramped in there, but you can unsnap the bail on the coil and the clips on the cap pretty easily. Then you just undo two bolts and the distributor comes right out.

Reminds me of the story in the home improvement magazine about the first-timer on a job site who was carrying a cast-iron tub down several flights of stairs to get rid of it. It weighed hundreds of pounds and was really big so it was hard to maneuver. Finally, the head guy decided he'd let him struggle long enough and hit it with a sledge hammer. The tub shattered into pieces that were each easy to carry.

The guy telling the story said something to the effect of "And that's how I learned to look at what I'm doing and think before I do something hard."
 
(quoted from post at 16:17:27 09/26/14) " " these people that brag they can have it off in 15 minutes I'd like to see" It takes me a half hour to get the steering wheel, hood and radiator off and longer especially if there is gas in the tank."

You are kidding us, right?

You can't be serious about removing the hood to get the distributor off.

The distributor comes off in 5 minutes........because it's not necessary to remove the hood.
75 Tips
Click to expand...

OH.... that would speed it up.... Yup just funnin. But in years past I fought taking off the hood before someone told me to remove the steering wheel next time. I've made a lot of stupid things like splitting the tractor for a stuck clutch before I saw the hint for blocking it depressed. I really appreciate the knowledge on this site. It is difficult to express emotion over e-mails without misunderstandings. Sorry if my attempt at self depreciating humor doesn't always translate.
 
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